rudder painting/antifouling

[tcm]

Right, three times the rudder has been painted in three years, and three times the paint seems to have been swooshed off, somehow. Al that remains is a bit of primer from a tin discovered by talbot in the south of france on a saturday afternoon. No black antifoul, and not that much primer. The rudders are stainless steel as far as i can make out. Is there any need to paintem, really? Or does the paint falling off mean there's summink wrong wiv the anodes?







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[Althorne]

Nah, it's probably Talbots crappy painting technic.
Mornin Mark, hope to see you tomorrow.
Roy

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[Deleted User YDKXO]

I never paint mine. Just get the barnacle crap off and leave 'em shiny just like the props and shafts. I thought that was the accepted way

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[mjf]

I agree with Deleted User - leave them shiny just like the Shafts and Props / trim tabs.


Interestingly I notice on similar length hulls from Fairline and Princess that Fairline paint these bits (rudders and tabs) whilst Princess seem to leave them raw.

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[jhr]

I'd treat them like a S/S prop and leave them gleaming and unpainted. Being as all the paint has been coming off anyway, I think you're just saving yourself a pointless chore.

However, there are all sorts of possibilities for further experimentation which you may care to consider. I've seen several posts over the years, recommending the application of lanolin to props (slap it on, then heat it with a blowtorch) and I've also had Vaseline suggested to me at some point, so it could be an amusing waste of time, erm a worthwhile experiment, to try them out on your rudders. By all accounts, none of these will do any good, but that's never stopped me from trying out stupid and pointless things.

PS However, if you can identify the origins of Talbot's black primer, you could be on to a good thing..........

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[No1_Moose]

I bet the prop shafts are lovely and shiny though!

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[steve_l]

Leave 'em bare but polished stainless, next best non-stick after teflon (which is why the paint is all "swooshed off"!)
-steve-

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[jfm]

Hmmm. Dunno. Ours are factory painted, and made of bronze or something. The paint was coming off, they got redone a month ago when the whole boat was anitfouled

In general, I think the less exposed metal the better, electrolysiswise, so I'd paint them.

At the yard recently where ours was done, some boat fixers were painting everything incl the shafts. Our fixer painted the rudders but not the shafts/props. He coated the shafts props in thick grease, buttered on. I bet it lasted abaout 5 minutes. So, anyway, there are loads of old wives tales about this.

Here is a pic of your rudders, taken in the Arno shed, rather nicely made in stainless

 

[tcm]

Re: shiny shafts

yep, actually, quite shiny! But the little critturs have sneaked along a bit, but will soon havem back shiny, i think.

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[tcm]

electrolysiswise will it make a fat load of difference? Cos if just teeny bit comes off, that's that innit?

Obviously i am mainly arguing against you as everyone else is in favour of the lazy git option.

nice pic!

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[jimi]

Have you considered the electroplating in copper option?

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[burgundyben]

think leaving them un painted for the first three or so years would have let corrosion key the surface, surveyor I was chatting to saturday mentioned not painting stainless trim tabs until 3 years old.

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[jimi]

Aha and then electroplate in copper!

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[Talbot]

The stuff that we used in Antibes was:

Interprotect is a quick drying, easy to apply two-pack epoxy primer for high performance protection on all rigid substrates.

It's two-component application gives excellent anti-corrosive and abrasion resistance properties and it can be used equally above or below the waterline.
If the anodes are still there, I would reckon that they are doing their job. We already know that D2 is rather hard on stuff under the waterline /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
just need to discover some paint that is as good as barnacles in holding onto the bottom of the boat.

Would certainly try the interprotect again with added a/f paint, after all I dont expect that you will do as many miles in her next year!

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[jfm]

Lazy git option not good

The currents in electrolysis are so tiny that the corrosion rate might be a function of exposed metal area. So painting helps, even if gets a bit scratched

The best answer, if you want the harley davidson polished look, is to polish em up good and proper then finish in Awlgrip clear coat. This will only cost £700 or so. Moneywellspent, no?

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[tcm]

hm, unfortunately we will do exactly the same number of miles next year, dang! Cheers for info.

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[wakeup]

Returning D2 to the Med???

So Matt are you gona take D2 back to the Med then next spring????

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[jimi]

Re: Returning D2 to the Med???

Acshully to be totally pedantic it'll probably take him ..

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[robind]

I rather like Jimi`s copper plating idea.
What would it take to make a polythene and timber tank and stick them in the garden in a coppersulphate solution connected to a battery, chuck an old calorifier on the other end of the battery and bingo! a month and the jobs done? or is it? seems too easy, certainly would work though?
Rob

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[No1_Moose]

I will be trying this tomorrow with a piece of Stainless. I cannot see why it won't work, what I mean is it will work but how will it work on a boat?



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