Retrieving the anchor is a pain

Irish Rover

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Let me get this straight.

You motor towards where you think the anchor is rather than pulling yourself towards it with the windlass; and you retrieve the cable as you go.

Is that right?
Yes. As I explained in my reply to @Neeves deleted post I can't leave it in drive. Min speed with the 2 engines in drive is 3.2/3.4 kts so I'd overrun the anchor in less than 10 seconds. I shunt in snd out of drive, one engine at a time but I'm doing everything blindly and aometimes it works and more often it doesn't.
 
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Irish Rover

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Could you

Is there space to replace the windlass with a much chunkier one designed for a bigger boat? That plus a wireless remote might be the ideal solution if the boat is a “keeper” and likely to be anchoring a lot short handed.
I have a wireless remote but it doesn't really help. I need to be on the flybridge to control the throttles. I fitted an expensive Quick chain counter so I can retrieve from the helm and know when the anchor is clear of the bottom. Bigger windlass, under hull camera seems easier option.
 

Poignard

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Yes. As I explained in my reply to @Neeves deleted post I can't leave it in drive. Min speed with the 2 engines in drive is 3.2/3.4 kts so I'd overrun the anchor in less than 10 seconds. I shunr in snd out of drive one engine at a time but I'm doing everything blindly and aometimes it works and more often it doesn't.
And so you get ahead of the cable, it goes slack and the boat's head pays off and you end up sideways to the direction of the cable and she stays like that until the cable comes under tension again and pulls her into line?

Meanwhile you're trying to correct this by juggling with the engines.

If that is how it is, I don't see what else you can do to prevent it other than use the windlass alone. And if it isn't powerful enough you'll have to get a bigger one as Dunedin suggests.
 

Irish Rover

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And so you get ahead of the cable, it goes slack and the boat's head pays off and you end up sideways to the direction of the cable and she stays like that until the cable comes under tension again and pulls her into line?

Meanwhile you're trying to correct this by juggling with the engines.

If that is how it is, I don't see what else you can do to prevent it other than use the windlass alone. And if it isn't powerful enough you'll have to get a bigger one as Dunedin suggests.
Bear in mind this is a catamaran almost 7m across the beam and the anchor roller is almost 3m back from the bow. So in shallow water, if you're sideways to the direction of the anchor, there's every liklihood the chain will scrape the hill.
 

dunedin

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I have a wireless remote but it doesn't really help. I need to be on the flybridge to control the throttles. I fitted an expensive Quick chain counter so I can retrieve from the helm and know when the anchor is clear of the bottom. Bigger windlass, under hull camera seems easier option.
My thinking was with bigger winch no need to be near the engine controls - just lift entirely on windlass working from bow when solo (like I do on monohull)
 

Poignard

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Bear in mind this is a catamaran almost 7m across the beam and the anchor roller is almost 3m back from the bow. So in shallow water, if you're sideways to the direction of the anchor, there's every liklihood the chain will scrape the hill.
Yes, I understand that you must keep the hulls parallel to the cable to prevent that happening.

But it seems to me that installing CCTV is just a workaround that isn't really solving the basic problem.

And that's what my suggestions were aimed at achieving.
 

Irish Rover

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Remote engine controls at the bow?
Yeah. I asked about this anchor retrieval issue on a Leopard Facebook group some while ago. The people in the group are all in the US and a few who single hand said they use Dock Mate or Yavht Controller. Not cheap and I think I'll try the camera approach first.
 
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Irish Rover

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Yes, I understand that you must keep the hulls parallel to the cable to prevent that happening.

But it seems to me that installing CCTV is just a workaround that isn't really solving the basic problem.

And that's what my suggestions were aimed at achieving.
The basic problem is the boat is not designed for single handing so whatever solution I find will be a workaround.
 

onesea

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My thinking was with bigger winch no need to be near the engine controls - just lift entirely on windlass working from bow when solo (like I do on monohull)
Agree there is a knack to lifting anchors buy hand.
It's not just about strength it's about speed. Keeping the right momentum on the boat to keep her straight.
 

bignick

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What is the chain roller on the centreline on the front crossbeam for?
Are you sure that you have the chain rigged correctly?
 

bignick

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I wonder if there’s another solution.
When off the snubbers the boat will veer because the anchor chain attachment point is in the centre of the boat.
Could you run a line over the emergency roller with a large ring or snatch block on the end, that the anchor chain runs through? Before retrieving the anchor you could pull it tight, so that the anchor pulls from the centreline, just below the beam, as you retrieve it, keeping the boat much straighter?
 

Irish Rover

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When you do have a crew, exactly what part do they play in this operation?
One of us operates the helm and one of us the windlass. The windlass operator instructs the helmsman what to do. The helm position and the windlass position are reasonably close to each other so we can usually hear each other easily enough. We also have a forward camera so that the helmsman can see the windlass operator on the MFD and get hand instructions if the wind makes it difficult to hear.
 

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