Replacing head gasket, is jointing compound recommended?

ferrispeterchris

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I am about to fit a new head gasket to my VP MD1 (though given the price it was I should frame it and hang it on the wall!).My question is do I use Hylomar or similar or fit it without?What does the panel think? TIA Peter.
 
No copper faced cylinder head gasket should be fitted with jointing compound. Both surfaces of the head and block should be clean and free of nicks and burrs. A light stoning with a fine stone is permissible to remove any burrs and the surfaces should be LIGHTLY smeared with grease before ensuring that the gasket is scrupulously cleaned and fitted. The grease only ensures that the gasket will seat properly as the bolts are tightened and is NOT to fill gaps or stop leaks.
 
Couldnt you have annealed it? save yourself a few bob, warm it up to a dull red and let it cool down,or drop it in water if you want.
 
Nothing ever. is ok for the odd rubber 'O' rings but gasket surfaces need to be spotless. Give both surfaces a gentle scrape then polish with wet n dry/emery paper soaked in diesel or paraffin, lightly oil the head bolts before tightening them to correct tension.
 
I noticed the reference to "Permatex" in the Workshop Manual.It appears Permatex and Hylomar are one and the same company now.The Manual also tells me to fit the gasket "copper faced side upwards".The gasket I have is grey on both sides with one side slightly smoother with what I presume is the manufacturers name "Victor Reinz AFM20" on it.
 
A modern coated gasket should not have any sealant applied and goes makers name facing up but do look at it carefully to make sure there are no cooling water passages being blocked off
 
Definitely not recommended on Bukh engines anyway. I've always fitted 'em dry on any engine I've worked on over the years.

As you say, the damned things could be sold at Sotheby's considering the price of the things!! Make a good investment these days I reckon!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Why has no one poo pooed my idea yet?

[/ QUOTE ] Poo poo! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I don't think its the sort of gasket you can do that with. You are getting confused with the solid copper joints in Seagulls.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Why has no one poo pooed my idea yet? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't think Poo is generally recommended as a sealant.... tends to make the exhaust and engine bay smell - er - funny.

Only the old style copper gaskets can be annealed. Since the early 60's most gaskets are composite and should not be re-used. Might get away with re-using a low compression petrol engine composite gasket if the head and block and gasket are in perfect condition, but the higher compression of a diesel requires the gasket to be in perfect condition to prevent leakage and failure.

And no, unless the makers actually specify a sealant, never ever use one on a head gasket - it will get blown or burnt away almost immediately. Many modern gaskets have a special coating which helps the gasket to seal, and any further coating will prevent it from working.
 
Im happy now that iv been pood on. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifI work mainly on Gardiners and we anneal HGs as a matter of course(solid copper of course).Price qouted last year for a new HG for a single clyinder L2 £36 =vat.
 
Torque figures are quoted for DRY threads, not lightly oiled ones, dont oil the threads, unless specifically told to in the manual. Do not use any gasket "goo" on head gaskets.
 
Both surfaces need to be clean and dry. Composite gaskets cannot be annealed, the varnished surfaces form a once only bond. Do not use grease or any other compound. Preferably use new nuts on cylinder head studs. Keyparts do very good deals on Volvo parts.
 
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