Replacement resettable fuse

chris-s

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Any idea where I might get a replacement resettable fuse for my switch panel?

(Actually, I’m just assuming they are resettable fuses! Whilst the boat case with a switch panel, nothing was connected to it)

Chris
 

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I regret I used those ETA breakers when I rebuilt and fitted a new switch panel many years ago. I got talked into them at the Boat Show one year. The ETA breakers were unreliable: of the 12 I ordered, 4 failed the click on, click off mechanism relatively quickly. After replacing the ones that failed when another two started sticking and a water pump started burning without tripping the breaker I junked them for:

RS Components | Electronic and Electrical Components Stock no 4059141 - that was 10amp but I used a variety of sizes. But they won't fit behind the OP's panel. Sorry I wouldn't recommend them in a marine environment.
 
Thanks guys. It didn’t occur to me until part way thru posting that they may be replaceable rather than resettable - numpty!
 
These fuses are not resettable; the replacement fuses are the glass type. The most popular type of fuses for boats.
Not sure about popular. I've spent many an hour swearing at glass fuses and corroded holders on a variety of floating and wheeled vehicles.

My current fuses on the boat are blade types. Since the only fuses to blow on the boat have been due to brain fade or simple stupidity on my part, I'm quite happy with replaceable ones, though you can get resettable.
 
All my individual circuits are protected by pop-out type circuit breakers. One regularly (as in once or twice a year) pops - the one on the fresh-water pump, when the tank empties and the pump runs continuously. I'm actually rather curious about how they work - the water pump one is fine under the normal load, and happily runs water for minutes on end. But when the tank empties (no gauge, so I can't always predict it), the pump runs continuously until either the breaker pops or I switch it off. But why should the breaker pop? It's been handling the current for quite a long time (perhaps a minute) before it goes, and the pump is under no-load conditions so I'd expect it to draw less current rather than more.
 
Because without water to "lubricate" the pump, the current draw is higher?

Also, the breakers have a current time curve so a 10A breaker might never pop on 10A, take 5 minutes to pop at 13A, 2 minutes at 16A, 1minute at 20A etc ... rather like fuses.
 
Because without water to "lubricate" the pump, the current draw is higher?

Also, the breakers have a current time curve so a 10A breaker might never pop on 10A, take 5 minutes to pop at 13A, 2 minutes at 16A, 1minute at 20A etc ... rather like fuses.
No water, current draw is lower
 
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