Removing the paddle wheel from an Airmar log

Ian_Edwards

Ian_Edwards

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I need to replace the paddle wheel on the speed log.

The Airmar instruction say:

"If fouling is severe, push out the paddlewheel shaftusing a spare shaft or a 4D finish nail with a flattened point."

I tried this using a modified jeweler screwdriver, with a shaft about the same size as the paddle wheel shaft, I started gently tapping it, and finished up with a small lump hammer. I can get the side I'm tapping to move a couple of mm, but the shaft isn't moving on the other side, I'm just bending the plastic.

I stopped before I did any serious damage.

Has anyone else had this problem? If they have how did they get the pin out.

or any other bright, and printable suggestions.
 
I'd be worried that soaking it in boiling may soften the plastic and may cause the housing to distort during the extraction process. Maybe try putting it the freezer for half an hour or so to make the shaft contract?
 
IIRC the shaft (pin) only goes in from one side, not both. That's to prevent the chances of it being pushed through completely and losing the paddle. The last time I looked at mine, the pin had a couple of flattened areas at one end.

Certainly true on some makes of paddles, and Airmar manufacture for many different makes.
 
Thanks for the replies.
Yes, the paddlewheel will only come out from one side, the hole on one side is noticeably smaller than on the other. I've been attacking it from the small hole side.
Putting it in the freezer isn't an option, the cable run from the the transducer to the itc5 of tortuous, so removing it from the boat is difficult and I really don't' want to go there.
I could use hot but not boiling water to see if I can break the "bond", that would mean boiling kettle and transferring the hot water into a suitable container and then dangling the transducer in it for a while, the differential expansion might work.
I was wondering if some form of penetrating oil might work?
I'm just back home from 5 days working on the boat, not due back on the for at least 2 weeks.
I'm collecting possible solutions to try on my next visit.
 
Ian_Edwards said:
Thanks for the replies.
Yes, the paddlewheel will only come out from one side, the hole on one side is noticeably smaller than on the other. I've been attacking it from the small hole side.
Putting it in the freezer isn't an option, the cable run from the the transducer to the itc5 of tortuous, so removing it from the boat is difficult and I really don't' want to go there.
I could use hot but not boiling water to see if I can break the "bond", that would mean boiling kettle and transferring the hot water into a suitable container and then dangling the transducer in it for a while, the differential expansion might work.
I was wondering if some form of penetrating oil might work?
I'm just back home from 5 days working on the boat, not due back on the for at least 2 weeks.
I'm collecting possible solutions to try on my next visit.
Click to expand...

Some oils have a bad effect on some plastics, I wouldn't risk it on something that's going to be blocking a hole in the bottom of the boat.
 
When I removed my Raymarine paddlewheel, the pin pushed out fairly easily, and I certainly don't recall it being tapered. Could the OP's pin be slightly bent?
 
I had the same problem. If I recall had to tap out with hole punch and hammer to get something for pliers to grip on and it resisted all the way; same problem in reverse - I had to sand off the plier marks - don’t actually know if it works as left blanking plug in
 
The pin isn't protruding on the other side, that's the problem. As I tap the pin, the pin goes in a mm or two the side where the force is applied, but there's no movement on the other side.
It's just a paddle wheel, I have a seperate transducer for the depth.
I sounds like hot water is an option, so I guess a gentle warming with a hot air gun, on the side that's stuck, might be equally effective, taking care not to get anywhere near hot enough to cause the magnet to demagnetize.
 
Ian_Edwards said:
The pin isn't protruding on the other side, that's the problem. As I tap the pin, the pin goes in a mm or two the side where the force is applied, but there's no movement on the other side.
It's just a paddle wheel, I have a seperate transducer for the depth.
I sounds like hot water is an option, so I guess a gentle warming with a hot air gun, on the side that's stuck, might be equally effective, taking care not to get anywhere near hot enough to cause the magnet to demagnetize.
Click to expand...

Support the none moving side on a small socket or nut that has the hole a touch bigger than the pin, then when you tap it you are not bending the flange, all the force goes in to moving the pin
 
If is an old log with many thousands of miles, the paddlewheel has grooved the shaft. - try gently rotating the wheel whilst tapping the shaft. Best replace with a new wheel and shaft
 
Ian_Edwards said:
I need to replace the paddle wheel on the speed log.

The Airmar instruction say:

"If fouling is severe, push out the paddlewheel shaftusing a spare shaft or a 4D finish nail with a flattened point."

I tried this using a modified jeweler screwdriver, with a shaft about the same size as the paddle wheel shaft, I started gently tapping it, and finished up with a small lump hammer. I can get the side I'm tapping to move a couple of mm, but the shaft isn't moving on the other side, I'm just bending the plastic.

I stopped before I did any serious damage.

Has anyone else had this problem? If they have how did they get the pin out.

or any other bright, and printable suggestions.
Click to expand...
Did you ever succeed with this and if so how? thanks Tim
 
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