Removing flaking deck paint

Daydream believer

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Just overpaint the decks and never lift the pressure washer above the waterline again... ;)
(It risks breaching the sealant on fittings, windows, etc.)

P.S. After years of expensive deck paint, I moved to B&Q water-based exterior house paint to surprisingly good effect. Easy to clean off overspill, brushes, hair, teeth, etc., and no less good than pukka enamel, which always seemed to flake off from somewhere after a year or so.
If you are really intent on going down that route then I would suggest floor paint. I was informed by a rep from a GRP boat builder that they used to paint the inside of hulls, where exposed, with it to good effect, as it adhered to the GRP very well.
 

Boathook

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If you are really intent on going down that route then I would suggest floor paint. I was informed by a rep from a GRP boat builder that they used to paint the inside of hulls, where exposed, with it to good effect, as it adhered to the GRP very well.
I use textured masonry paint. Water based and acrylic. Seems to last around 5 or 6 years before wearing out but I do pressure wash it at the start of the season.
Might look at floor paint next time if they do a non slip version.
 

RogerJolly

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I sanded my non-skid textured gelcoat areas flat (stress cracks), then painted on some Interdeck non-skip paint.

Moved the boat on six years later – still pristine with no trace of peeling or flaking.
 

Daydream believer

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I use textured masonry paint. Water based and acrylic. Seems to last around 5 or 6 years before wearing out but I do pressure wash it at the start of the season.
Might look at floor paint next time if they do a non slip version.
Sprinkle it with birdsand through a flour sieve (to get an even coating as well as remove any large grains) when still very wet. Make sure the paint has not dried or the sand will not stick. Then, when the paint is dry, lightly brush off any that has not adhered . Then apply the second coat of paint. If you want a coarse sharp grip thin the second coat of paint . If you want a lesser grip put the paint on thicker. It is far better than the beads one can buy from international etc . I find those unsuccessful.

I had a wooden boat & painted the decks & cabin top a couple of times & varied the grip in places to suit. ie grippiest round the mast. Less in the cockpit floor. Be aware that it is hard on sailing gear so do not use it where crew are going to sit. If you do then over paint thickly & apply the sand sparingly.
Sailboard manufacturers use sugar in the gel coat. I have not tried it but it is said to be less "harsh". I find that the second coat of paint sorts that anyway.
 
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lustyd

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got 5 years and counting from using decent quality single component paints (presumably with proper prep).
Certainly is claiming that, and possibly just hasn't realised that the dust in the saloon is paint yet. Single pack paint degrades in UV light, it makes zero difference how it's applied because the paint itself degrades and turns to dust. Two pack paint doesn't do this, but you have to be exceptionally good at prep or it comes off in sheets and you have to start from scratch. Either way, some patio magic followed by oxalic acid will get most decks clean enough for their age and leaves them maintenance free.
 

coopec

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The cabin tops of my yacht are quite good but there is a patch where the paint has flaked off. To fix that I intend to very, very carefully paint the patch, sprinkle plenty of Sika Quartz sand (or something similar) , let it dry then brush away the loose sand and give the patch another paint. Hopefully the repair won't be too obvious.

The side walkways are a different matter. I was thinking of using a multi-tool with a wide 2 inch blade to remove the flaking paint. That would get most of it off but then I'd hit it with the angle grinder/wire brush. Finally I'd use a belt sander to taper off any paint edges.

But what paint would I use? (It would have to be tinted "Manila")

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1680259504922.jpeg


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Crinan12

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The problem with my decks is that some of the paint is just far too loose to paint over. But then some is solid.

The yard gave me a loan of their petrol power washer but for some reason my wee electric one is more effective. And i snapped the starter pull cord on theirs and haven't told them yet.

I tried power washing for another hour or so but it's just a mess.

I've contacted argyll blast services and they said they can remove it. Just waiting for a quote.
 

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Crinan12

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In case anyone wondering i just had a company along to look at my decks

The chap said it would take best case half a day and worst case a full day to remove all the paint

Cost best case 350, worst case 650

Was pleasantly surprised, I'm going to get them to do it

Thanks
 

Poignard

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Having removed all the old paint and got back to a bare, abraded, GRP deck, what's the best way to clean it ?

I was thinking of using sugar soap in solution, then rinsing off with fresh water, as a cheaper alternatve to the cleaning products offered by paint manufacturers.

Any better ideas?

(I'll be painting the deck International Primer followed by International Interdeck)
 

GunfleetSand

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I had good results with very hot water when removing old masonry paint, softens the vinyl in the paint and peels or scrapes off easily, need to keep the heat on it though

if I had to do paint removal again unless time on my side or exactly the right equipment it’s a job I’d pay someone else to do!
 

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