Removal of Volvo Penta 290DP-E bearing pins

Momac

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What is the method for removing the bearing pins on a Volvo Penta 290dp-e outdrive? I have removed the locking screws in case anyone was wondering.
I have tried a threaded bar arrangement to jack the pins out but getting nowhere. One pin has budged about 2mm and the other has not moved . I tried tapping the moved pin back in with no success.
I am thinking a slide hammer will not help due to insufficient energy.
I have applied lots of WD40 which is what I had to hand and given up for today.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Screenshot 2023-12-17 15.26.40.png
 

Mr Googler

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Drift it inwards using a socket and with the steering full lock away to give you room for the pin to come out
 

Freebee

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whatever you do when refitting the drive dont enter your finger in the holes to line them up......... like my "mechanic" did and then allow the drive to fall off its support-result was - he was trapped for a couple of hours with a swollen and bloody finger! till somebody responded to the cries for help!!!
 

Momac

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I am thinking a slide hammer may do the trick.
Just a matter of finding the right one to buy.

Heat may be a possibility , but from a kettle of boiling water perhaps and not from a blowlamp.
 

Davy_S

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If they are the same as the pivot pins on a 290 leg, what i did, i got a big socket that the pin would slide into, i put a bolt with a nut on through the socket and screwed the bolt into the pin, then i tightened up the nut until the pin was drawn out, i used heat and penetrating oil, i kept nipping the nut up and left it overnight, it had loosened in the morning, it was a simple bolt puller but it worked.
 

Momac

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If they are the same as the pivot pins on a 290 leg, what i did, i got a big socket that the pin would slide into, i put a bolt with a nut on through the socket and screwed the bolt into the pin, then i tightened up the nut until the pin was drawn out, i used heat and penetrating oil, i kept nipping the nut up and left it overnight, it had loosened in the morning, it was a simple bolt puller but it worked.
Yes its a 290 outdrive .
That's the method I tried other than application of heat ,
I will give it longer with the threaded rod method plus some heat (I trashed the M10 threaded rod so will get some M12)
 

Boat2016

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Get someone in to do the job who knows what they’re doing, it’s really quite simple with the correct knowledgeand does a lot of damage without it !!!
 
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Davy_S

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It took me far longer than i expected it to, i was very wary of the casting cracking! but i kept using a kettle of boiling water whilst keeping it under tension, repeated several times, but it did work eventually. good luck!
 

QBhoy

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Sliding hammer is definitely the way to go. Can get cheap as chips online. Get one with the additional attachments and fittings. You’ll manage no bother. Be careful putting them back in though. Don’t put your fingers anywhere near the thing. Saw a friend instinctively try put his finger in there to check if things were aligning…whilst I was holding the weight of the outdrive itself. Thankfully he realised the danger looming, last minute !
These things can be bloody heavy things for some guys, I’d imagine. All well and good, taking the weight of them, whilst removing…gravity helps that. But if you’re reinstalling on your own, holding the weight and trying to get pins and water hose back in place…can be a task !
Very easy to make up a wee support trolley, from an old pallet. Used one a friend made not long ago. Made things much easier.
 

alt

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Slide hammer.

BUT.... with the addition of long threaded bar (ie. Maybe 2-3ft)

Put the threaded bar through the pin and secure it with a washer (smaller than the diameter of the pin) and secure with a nut.

On the slide hammer side, big washer (bigger than the slide hammer hole) and secure with a nut.

That's my method and works on all the pins I've ever removed.

Hope this makes sense.... typing off my phone
 

Momac

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Thanks to all for the support.
It's going to be a job to be done over the Christmas break .
 

oldgit

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Ahh.....this post bought back such happy memories, including repainting the transom assembly after a gas blowtorch had to be applied in the last desperate attempt to ease out those pins.
A Heath Robinson affair consisting of a socket along with some nuts and studding helped.
The outer pin was easy to get to, the inner pin a pain.
The stainless pins are virtually indestructable, need to be wary of damaging the soft alloy that surrounds it.
 

stelican

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Ahh.....this post bought back such happy memories, including repainting the transom assembly after a gas blowtorch had to be applied in the last desperate attempt to ease out those pins.
A Heath Robinson affair consisting of a socket along with some nuts and studding helped.
The outer pin was easy to get to, the inner pin a pain.
The stainless pins are virtually indestructable, need to be wary of damaging the soft alloy that surrounds it.
It's suprising what a beating the aly casing can take.
Must have designed that in.
 
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oldgit

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It's suprising what a beating the aly casing can take.
Must have designed that in.
You normally only finally aquire the knowledge and skills equal to the task of mastering all those little challenges that Volvo Penta designed into those infernal devices shortly before admitting you are beaten and passing the pleasure to the totally unsuspecting new owner.
Well remember the buyer of my old Princess 33 ringing me up and inquiring about how difficult it would be to service out outdrives, himself.
My answer will ensure that the "Pearly Gates" will not be the ones I will be standing in front of in the near future.
Easy job, should not take long but you might want a blow torch and lot of Elastoplast. :ROFLMAO:
,
 

Wobbo

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Drift it inwards using a socket and with the steering full lock away to give you room for the pin to come out
This is how we do it as well but with an old extension bar, club hammer and the leg sat on a wooden frame to support it.
Clean n lube and they come out easy next time.
 
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