Removal of raw water pump on VP 2003 engine: is it dead easy, even for an engineering numpty?

NealB

Well-Known Member
Joined
19 Feb 2006
Messages
7,674
Location
Burnham on Crouch
Visit site
The raw water pump on our VP 2003 has a steady drip from the gaps in the body behind the front cover.

Removal looks easy enough, to my ignorant eyes:

- disconnect the inlet and outlet pipes
- remove the three bolts
- pull the pump forwards (should it pull easily by hand, or is some sort of puller needed?)

Can any of the experienced old hands add any words of wisdom or caveats, please?


1620473370758.png1620483731766.png


1620473450949.png1620481204772.png
 
Last edited:
I don't think you will have a problem removing it.

Either the lip seals, shaft, or ball race bearings will have failed.

Volvo do a kit comprising of the above. Pressing the new bearings on to the shaft will require a very strong vice.

You may be able to buy an exchange unit from Volvo or a Volvo dealer.
 
I don't think you will have a problem removing it.

Either the lip seals, shaft, or ball race bearings will have failed.

Volvo do a kit comprising of the above. Pressing the new bearings on to the shaft will require a very strong vice.

You may be able to buy an exchange unit from Volvo or a Volvo dealer.

Many thanks, particularly for the confidence-inspiring first sentence!
 
Mr numpty don't forget to close inlet pipe first ??
Done that too! A focusing moment!

Otherwise it was not hard for me to replace the bearings. A fraction of the VOLVO costs for a pump.

Or replace the pump. Then refurbish the old pump and have a spare.
 
In the past I found that leaving the shaft in the freezer overnight and placing the new bearings in a warm oven for twenty minutes allowed the new bearings to tap on to the shaft easily.
I too had little trouble getting the bearings on the shaft: they are a press fit, but as far as I recall, firm pressure was all that was required.
 
I did it a couple of times, my recollection is that the seals and bearings are generic and commonly available significantly cheaper from a specialist than from VP.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I'm just back home from the boatyard.

Total removal time: a touch under 20 minutes ( of which half were spent searching round the bilges, under the sump, for the dropped 13mm socket).

Onwards and upwards (rebuild or replace?).
 
Last edited:
This is my first Volvo engine. It's a 1990 2003. I'm not familiar with the type of connection between the pump and the copper pipes. Looks like 0 rings are involved. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thetone
 
My tip for the thermostat style seals ; had put one in and it dripped. Came back next day and it had stopped. I called that a win.
 
Don’t bend the pipes
when you disturb them loosen BOTH ends that way they will have e better chance to get them to seal

The sealing is great idea in concept but very poor in practice
 
Top