reefing

surekandoo

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This may sound very simple, but what's the best (easiest) way to reef a mainsail.
I should add that I know how to reef the sail i.e. vang off, topping lift on whilst releasing mainsheet, slacken main halyard, luff cringle round horn, take up reef line to pull leech down, tie off/jam, main halyard back on, release topping lift, main sheet back on, vang back on if necessary.

What I'm more concerned about is how to do it easily when single handed. I rely on "george" (autohelm), to keep the boat going in the right direction (assume I'm beating), whilst I put the reef in. I normally release the main sheet till the main's back winded, and theb set about reefing. The normal problems are "george" looses control and I get in a bit of a muddle!

Any ideas from experienced single handers out there? Boat is a Limbo 6.6.

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boatless

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Two things spring to mind.

Firstly, george. If you free the main and sit with him for a minute or two he should automatically relearn the boat's handling charachterstics. If he can't, put him on standby and then re-engage. I'm not sure, but I'd imagine that the software thinks weather helm first, and if that doesn't work will then try lee?

Second, always let plenty of sheet and vang go. Lots of people seem to enjoy pulling the leech cringle down to the boom, but's it's a lot easier to lift the boom to the cringle.

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Benbow

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I usually heave-to to reef, especially if its really hairy. Everything than then be done calmly and quietly.

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isandell

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I would agree with trying it hove to, but you may find that the Limbo doesn't heave to well. Nevertherless, with some trial and error and use of autopilot should work.

Ian

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Dave99

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If you are stuck and you havent got laminated racing sails then you ca always turn on Bruno (the engine) and set the boat motoring head to wind. Maybe furl Jib aswell

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starboard

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Sail singlehanded all the time. I do as you do when beating to windward. Autohelm on and ease the main to lose the drive but the headsail still driving. The auto helm should always hold the preset course as with the headsail still driving the boat will still have sufficient way on, if it doesnt your autohelm must be at fault. If on a reach the same thing,just ease the main to spill the wind and put in the reef whilst the headsail still driving. If on a run and the wind very strong you may have to come onto the wind and carry out as previous. After a few attempts dont fear it will become second nature, must admit though my Autohelm is my best mate......sad old me!!!!

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Lori

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Flippin Heck........ Now look guys....... Just learning the practical stuff.....You are frightening me death!. I had to hold the boat into the wind while my skipper dropped the sail....... I managed to do a complete 360deg turn.....all by myself.... Willigofar (the hydrovane) had no idea what was going on.... neither did I. I just sort of dissolved into fits of giggles off Spurn Head. Reckon the coastgaurd was watching with much amuzement too!. So what on earth is a 'vang' and do classi 36ft steel boats with slab reefing have one? Should I get one?........... It all seemed so easy at sea school in therory!........ Must try harder........


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boatless

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Well, the first part, we've all done that. Probably more than once. If you're laughing when it all goes pear shaped you're on the right track.

Vang is just another word word for kicking strap. Hey, you'll be bilingual before long.. it has other names, but they're the main ones.

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machurley22

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Can I make a request for completion of at least boat details in profiles? You know it makes sense, particularly in a discussion involving reefing while hove-to!

Dave

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Rick

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I both race and cruise short handed, and have modified current and previous yacht to have a single line reefing system with lazy jacks and boombag. It's not purest, but I can leave the marina pen, go sailing, reef, shake reef, and return to pen all without leaving the cockpit.

The reefing lines are as follows: A line is lashed to the boom, goes up and thru the cringle, then back to the boom and around a fixed block (A), and then enters the boom. The line terminates here, spliced onto a single block (B). A second line begins at the gooseneck, fixed inside the boom, and goes aft, thru block B, and then back to the gooseneck end to go around a block (C), up thru the luff cringle, then down to the deck, passing through an SS ring at gooseneck. Line goes around a turning block (D), then aft to cockpit.

Reefing procedure is as follows - vang eased, mainsheet eased till sail luffs, then one turn of main halyard on winch and halyard clutch opened. One turn taken on opposite winch of reefing line, and line hauled as halyard released. When halyard mark reaches clutch, halyard clutch closed, and remaining reefing line pulled in - if necessary, handle into winch to really load up, but with 4:1 on the reefing line, it's normally enough by hand.

Second reef - well this is turning into an article - if any interest I'll complete it and post it somewhere.

Modifying the boats this way transformed our sailing - before the lazy jacks / boombag, we'd never raise the main for a short sail, whereas now it's so easy, it goes up whenever there's breeze. Before single line reefing we always reefed late, and shook late - now we do it regularly.

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Rick

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I both race and cruise short handed, and have modified current and previous yacht to have a single line reefing system with lazy jacks and boombag. It's not purest, but I can leave the marina pen, go sailing, reef, shake reef, and return to pen all without leaving the cockpit.

The reefing lines are as follows: A line is lashed to the boom, goes up and thru the cringle, then back to the boom and around a fixed block (A), and then enters the boom. The line terminates here, spliced onto a single block (B). A second line begins at the gooseneck, fixed inside the boom, and goes aft, thru block B, and then back to the gooseneck end to go around a block (C), up thru the luff cringle, then down to the deck, passing through an SS ring at gooseneck. Line goes around a turning block (D), then aft to cockpit.

Reefing procedure is as follows - vang eased, mainsheet eased till sail luffs, then one turn of main halyard on winch and halyard clutch opened. One turn taken on opposite winch of reefing line, and line hauled as halyard released. When halyard mark reaches clutch, halyard clutch closed, and remaining reefing line pulled in - if necessary, handle into winch to really load up, but with 4:1 on the reefing line, it's normally enough by hand.

Second reef - well this is turning into an article - if any interest I'll complete it and post it somewhere.

Modifying the boats this way transformed our sailing - before the lazy jacks / boombag, we'd never raise the main for a short sail, whereas now it's so easy, it goes up whenever there's breeze. Before single line reefing we always reefed late, and shook late - now we do it regularly.

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William_H

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It sounds to me like you are asking your autopilot to hold a course close to the wind while you reef the main. When you depower the main the boat will not point as well and will start to luff and slow down. I would suggest adjusting the a/p for a heading 5degrees or so off the wind to a heading where the jib can continue to positively drive the boat at a good speed. George should be happy then. When the main is back working for it's keep you can come closer to the wind. If the boat heels too much slightly off the wind with main depowered then the jib is too big. regards will

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cameronke

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Hi Rick

Thankyou for your description

I am looking to modify my main to a reefing system very like what you describe. I would really value any tips comments sketches etc you may have to ensure that I fully understand where (a), (b), etc are.

Regards
Cameron

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surekandoo

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Valid point! I will update my profile, but for the moment my boat is a Limbo 6.6, 22ft swing keel cruiser/racer now only used for cruising. She is fractionally rigged with a high aspect main and hanked on foresails (No. 1, working, and a small jib which I've never had to use yet. Symptoms of a reef being needed are excessive weather helm & angle of heel. I understand these symptoms to require a reduction in mainsail area rather than foresail, so I act appropriately. Current mainsail is old and baggy (new one on order) which doesn't help.

Generally speaking the boat's well behaved under sail and easy on the helm. Using the engine's not normally an option when beating as it's a 4hp outboard, mounted offset on the transom, which means it can come right out of the water when on starboard tack if it's a bit rough. I use the engine as little as possible, normally it's folded up out of the water when sailing.

I have to confess that I don't normally sail single handed in bad weather but occasionally get caught out by squalls.

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Benbow

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Not sure why my profile would illuminate my comments. I own a hunter horizon 26 but I do more than 75% of my miles in other boats, usually much (much) bigger. I have never encountered a boat that would not be pursuaded to heave-to.

While I am on the subject, I fully agree that it is perfectly possible to reef while under way and with an autopilot doing the steering (particularly if you start the engine !). However, I do feel that it is a much more difficult and potentially dangerous way to do it. The apparent wind is stronger, the boat will be lurching about and the boom is more likely to smack you in the face. For a short-handed cruiser I really feel that heaving-to is the best approach; racers or fully crewed boats can obviuously do it much faster on the fly. Getting into the habbit of heaving-to whenever I am in the slightest doubt has transformed my sailing into a much calmer experience than it was before I saw the light!


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