Red / Green combined nav light ??

Osculati light arrived today ... very nice ... no silly press clip that gets harder over the years ... two sensible screws hold it together ...

Opened up to see internals ... has the required spiral filament bulb ... BUT 25W !! Swapped out for approved LED bulb and that should cut the ampage seriously !

Before the 'ekspurts' start - I am fully aware that CE certification means item + bulb .... Who's going to check once fitted ? As long as they see required Red / Green they'll pass on ...

I intend to swap out all my Spiral filament bulbs for LED's .... think on it .... Dual nav light 25W ( ... steaming light 10 or 25W .... stern light 10 or 25W .... that's minimum 4A + losses .. with possible 6A + losses if higher wattage bulbs fitted ... I can easily cut that back to about 2A ...

OK - so steaming light is only when engine on ... but still .. its a load that can be cut back.
 
Refueler said:
Osculati light arrived today ... very nice ... no silly press clip that gets harder over the years ... two sensible screws hold it together ...

Opened up to see internals ... has the required spiral filament bulb ... BUT 25W !! Swapped out for approved LED bulb and that should cut the ampage seriously !

Before the 'ekspurts' start - I am fully aware that CE certification means item + bulb .... Who's going to check once fitted ? As long as they see required Red / Green they'll pass on ...

I intend to swap out all my Spiral filament bulbs for LED's .... think on it .... Dual nav light 25W ( ... steaming light 10 or 25W .... stern light 10 or 25W .... that's minimum 4A + losses .. with possible 6A + losses if higher wattage bulbs fitted ... I can easily cut that back to about 2A ...

OK - so steaming light is only when engine on ... but still .. its a load that can be cut back.
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I swapped all my light bulbs for LED ones years ago. A lot brighter and the colours well defined. Reduced electrical consumption as well.
Got the bulbs from Boatlamps - Marine LED bulbs and replacement lamps for all boats
 
I changed my aqua signal Nav lights for LED. I used cool white for the white (stern, Anchor and steaming) and warm white for the tri and bi colour lights

Colours seem to me to be OK and much brighter, and the cool white lights are very bright. I am very happy

I got mine direct from China so all happy
 
Mine are China as well .. said to be in conformity with CE etc. .... compared height of elements and they match the full measurement of the spiral filament ... so in effect - the light emitted should have the same plane ..
 
Peters & Bey are stainless. Very nice. Very expensive.

Ross Highland Supplies can get them, and the parts.
 
Compliance with CE is not relevant post purchase. It is compliance with ColRegs chromaticity and intensity specification for lights that is relevant.

Boat Lamps describe the type of LED to use in a navigation lamp. Worth reading.

Navigation Lights: LED Replacement Bulb Information

ADVICE ON LED BULB COLOUR
Navigation lights typically comprise of individual white, red and green light fixtures. Sailing craft having the option of utilising bi-colour (red/green), often at deck level, or tri-colour (red/green/white) mounted at the mast top.

If your boat has individual navigation lights, you will get the best results by using red LED lamps behind red lenses and green LED lamps behind green lenses. Maximum visibility is provided by using cool white lamps behind clear lenses utilised for anchor light, stern and steaming lights.

Do not place cool white LED lamps behind coloured lenses as they do not produce the correct colours for navigation purposes.

Warm white lamps are popular behind bi and tri-colour red and green combined lenses for boats up to 12 metres. For boats up to 20 metres see our Bi & Tri Colour light information page.
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Always more than one way to skin a cat.
 
Work has been a pain .. but finally got to boat to test new light ...

I had idea that boat was wired with -ve grounded via rails etc ... and this was confirmed when testing new light ..

I know many boats do this with +ve via a wire and -ve via the mounting bolts to rails etc - but I personally do not like it. I always prefer the two wire approach ..

Anyway - a 'servo rubber grommet' will be used to protect the +ve lead out of pulpit.

The Aquasignal bracket has been riveted to the pulpit - this will need grinding out the rivets, remove old bracket and then drilling to fit the Osculati light. A much better secure mounting than the 'quick-release' Aquasignal ...
 
Weather was warm enough today and I had to go see my pal in the yard - so decided to take the gear and see about that light.

The tab for the AQ40 to lock onto - I ground off the pop-rivets and removed it. Thinking to drill the main plate to bolt the light onto. Ha Ha !! Drill bits hardly marked the stainless.

Decided to take the tab back home and drill that to fix light to - then rivet back to base plate.

Once I got the tab off - I now know why the light went swimming - the locking bit at back of tab was missing ! Light was basically there by gravity.

Drilled the tab .. drilled Osculati light back plate to suit ...

back at boat, pop-riveted tab back in place after putting bolts through ready for light.

Bolted up the light ... LED clipped in ... checked all worked ... (y)

One thing I did was to pass the wire through a length of heatshrink as protection where it exits pullpit.
 
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