Recommendations for an electric windlass for a 27 footer

[sailingrbg]

Recommendations for an electric windlass for a 27 footer


Dear all

I am currently looking to put an electric anchor windlass on my small yacht however there is insufficient room within the anchor locker to site this and so far my thoughts are to provide a vertical windlass (where the motor is below deck) , just aft of the anchor locker. The thought being that the anchor chain coming from the bow roller will go round the windlass and then drop into the locker which is relatively deep about 2 feet. At the London boat show I looked at the Quick Rider 700w which seemed to do everything I wanted the only problem being that there is no mechanical means of manually raising the anchor on the windlass. Can anyone advise if they have a similar situation where the chain goes round a vertical windlass and falls into the locker. (ie not falling down through a hole in the windlass itself ) can you advise if it works well or if you could recommend a windlass that additionally has a means of mechanically raising the anchor as well.

Many thanks for any help or advice received

 

[Tranona]

I have an SL Anchorman (manual) that is installed in just the way you describe, using a hooded naval pipe forward of the drum. Works OK, but need to make sure you have a good fall for the chain.

Can't help on the manual bit on a vertical axis, but to be honest the tackle for a 27 footer is not too heavy to handle by hand in the rare event of windlass failure.

 

[ccscott49]

I have a large Quick windlass and I'm very pleased with it and it's build quality.

 

[Mariner69]

You need a good drop to 'pull' the cable clear of the gypsy and allow it to fall into the cable locker.

For a mechanical device I would suggest that you cobble together a square peg arrangement, glued and screwed to the top of the winch, together with a ratchet handle to provide the drive. It all very much depends on the design of the winch you select.

Good Luck!

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

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Recommendations for an electric windlass for a 27 footer



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Another vote for the Quick. I don't think that the wattage on mine is anywhere near what you indicated, though. Just 300 IIRC yet I have never had any problems.

The control is on a long coiled cable that is popped out of the forehatch when I have crew on board, or out through the companionway when - as is more usually the case - I am alone.

Chain is 6mm and I have some 60 metres of it. I forget the weight of the anchor but you can get an idea from the photo.

What I can say is that when the anchor got stuck in some foul bottom, the pull was sufficient to make the bows visibly dip by several inches before the anchor broke out.

I had thought that no 'manual' could be a problem; it hasn't been - so far! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Stemar]

On a small boat, I reckon the most reliable mechanical backup for the windlass is a strong pair of arms. If there's a small gap between the gypsy and the hawse pipe, should the windlass - or the battery - fail, you're no worse off than if you'd never fitted it

 

[ToMo]

When I was buying an electric windless for Minuet I was advised to buy one that would take me up the mast.

It was very good advise and SWMBO will confirm it !

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

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On a small boat, I reckon the most reliable mechanical backup for the windlass is a strong pair of arms.

[/ QUOTE ]

I would have agreed with you some seven years ago. Wholeheartedly.....

Then I had two MI's within one week and needed a stent put in. ...

First two things I bought, straight out of hospital, were electric windlass / calibrated chain, and furling gear for my genoa.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MASH]

Whatever you buy make sure that the chain run around the gipsy is not partly covered by any fairings etc. Structure around the drum can cause a jam that is impossible to clear without dismantling the thing - and that is dangerous if upping anchor cleanly is necessary for safety.

Also - V important, make sure that you can haul the chain by hand and let it run down into the locker without using the gipsy. Many electric windlasses sit over the hole the chain drops through. Hole and windlass need to be some inches apart. In the event of a motor/battery/fuse failure you MUST be able to haul in by hand and drop chain into the locker. Tens of metres of chain slithering loose and unsecured on deck is a disaster waiting to happen.

A long drop into a narrow locker is nice, but a boat design feature over which you have no control. You MUST have full manual reversion and stowage with the motor stopped for whatever reason.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

That's a whole bunch of MUST's !!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Sorry! It's just me and my lifelong attitude that "I don't MUST anything"

 

[ToMo]

The guy who taught me sailing had a single maxim as a guide:

"If It Can, It Will!!!" and the more I think about it and the more experience I get...wow is it just right!

 

[MASH]

Well pal, if you want your anchor chain half way up and jammed in the gipsy, on a lee shore with a rising wind and can't budge the dragging cable, can't motor with the anchor a-drag, and can't pull it up without it spilling all over the deck, and you know that as soon as the boat rolls it will be all over the side in a rush (with your foot in a bight) and foul around the keel, or the rocks, or the neighbours anchor.

Yeah, keep on disliking "must".

In my boat, safety is "must"...

Good luck in yours!

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Well 'Pal', let me just clue you.

You don't have a monopoly on what constitutes safety. If you take some time to read again what you had written regarding windlass installation you might understand that you are in effect saying that an opening anchor locker would be the only solution, plus a windlass on pillars. Would you really place your hand in the few inches that you say must separate the windlass from the hole?

In the scenario that you describe so vividly, which includes a dragging cable that you can't budge (taut chain, I presume?), fouled keel (loose chain, now?), and that you "can't motor with the anchor a-drag", etc., do you seriously think that a manual override would be any use unless you have biceps like Popeye?

By the way, when I am inspecting boats prior to an offshore race for conformity to ISAF safety requirements - something that I do regularly - one of the things that are required are a good pair of bolt cutters, or their equivalent.......

In my opinion, every well-found boat SHOULD be similarly equipped.

In my humble opinion, and with my limited knowledge of your language, I would suggest that the word 'should' sounds less aggressive and is more reader friendly than 'MUST'.

Thank you for wishing me 'luck' on my boat, even though in my professional life I could never have accepted the concept of 'luck'. Safety is not a 'must'; safety is a way of life.

 

[MASH]

Oh dear, some people are so over-sensitive. Take a chill-pill Wally, or a cold shower. No need for posts like that you know...

Clearly in the face of your vastly superior knowledge and intellect I am a mere insect.

There there- is that better?

But I still maintain that manual reversion and stowage without chain around the gipsy is essential - oops sorry Wally, just desirable on your boat...

That's all...

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

[ QUOTE ]
I am a mere insect.



[/ QUOTE ]

A worse variety would be a patronising one.

But then again, wit does presume a certain modicum of intelligence.

Have a good day, Sir!