re-glueing lining

[jimmca]

Hi
I was wondering if anyone can help me.
I have a lining on my boat (exactly the same as a car lining) which has come loose.
What would be the best adhesive to use to fix it back to the fibre glass. Tinned spray-on glue or a PVA?
Thanks
Jimmca.

 

[maxi77]

Raggies use contact adhesive, usually a spray on version on the material abd a paint on on the fibre glass.

 

[SilverTT]

This is a horrid job.
Has the foam come away from the vinyl. Will need cleaning and remove all loose parts. Do it in a well ventalated area if you can, open doors and windows.
I've used the spray on before. worked ok for me.

 

[Viscount]

I used a hot glue gun on mine about 4 years ago and never had to touch it since.

 

[itsonlymoney]

I have used the spray on carpet/tiles spray for similar applications to good effect.

 

[ebbtide]

Ensure whatever adhesive you use has an adequate temperature range. One (rare) sunny day recently my newly-fitted focsle headlinings all came down!

 

[Searush]

In most cases, this is a foam backed lining & it is th efoam that has broken down. It cannot then be glued back up. It needs to be completely removed, all cleaned back to raw GRP & new stuff glued back. No small task.

However, there is a very simple, cheap, quick and effective solution. I bought "D" moulded battens from a local D-I-Y store (you do need to be highly selective to only buy oness without joints/ knots or cross-grain). These can then be screwed direct into the roof GRP (even if balsa sandwich) using brass 1/2" C/S screws. The end result is quite attractive, and, most of my battens were simply sprung into place with the ends trapped behind the curtain rails. Pics below show outcome, cost was about £15 and an afternoon's work. Now been in place 3 years & still looks as good.

 

[colinroybarrett]

Been here and already done this, How to reline a cabin roof It was a good while ago but should still be of some help

 

[carlton]

I've done this, and it's straightforward and simple.

Buy some Evo-Stik contact adhesive, gently ease back the dodgy lining stuff to expose the the boaty bits. Slap some adhesive on, and leave it until it becomes highly 'tacky' (- about ten to fifteen minutes, temperature dependant).

Then, simply smooth the original lining back in place. Takes minutes to do, and mine has lasted 4 and a half years and counting....

IME the spray on stuff is fine - for a short while. It loses it's adhesive properties as soon as it gets warm. There's a process we do at work involving the spray-tak stuff and it's fine for light loadings, but is not man enough in my experience for the heavier, vinyl-type fabrics. Forget PVA. Evo-Stik's the answer, but make sure you're as well-ventilated as possible when applying or you'll end up ripped to the tits on the fumes. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[kingfisher]

I did not want to screw directly into my ceiling, ie directly into the GRP and balsa core. I also wanted panels so I could remove them to hide and inspect cable runs So I:
- Cleaned the roof
- stuck some small wood blocks to the ceiling with epoxy in 3 lines aft to front.
- made some wood panels out of ply that fit between the three lines of bolcks
- covered panels with material (fake leather) and installed recessed LED lights
- put panels in place and screwed battens along the three lines of blocks, on top of the panels.

 

[PCUK]

Vinyl floor-tile adhesive. Non solvent based so pleasant to use and gives time to adjust material position.

Some contact adhesives leach through the material and irrevocably stain the surface.