Re engine ,shaft drive 50hp

I changed a 55hp VP for a Yanmar in 2007.
The fact that the exhaust needed a larger pipe and exited the engine to port instead of to starboard caused a lot of installation changes.
So did the lower prop-shaft axis position which ended in the adoption of a Python Drive and thrust bearing mountings.
The alternator position and type also added to the electrical installation issues.
After ten years use, the gearbox oil cooler developed a leak into the gearbox oil. An anti-syphon valve stuck closed and flooded the engine. The exhaust elbow eroded through and a valve spring broke.
On the lucky side , there was a brilliant diesel engineer in Portimao, who refurbished the Yanmar completely for a song.
In 2017, Yanmar were offering both mechanical and electronic control versions of their 55 HP engines. Apparently it was EU environmental rules driving the engines to electronic control.
 
Why not another Vetus? The M4 series would seem to fit the bill. Five years ago I found their price extremely competitive, the service excellent, and the Mitsubishi based diesel proved utterly reliable. What’s not to like?
 
Another plus for the Beta 50. Fitted by Rustler from new and I'm very happy with it and with Beta's service. Installed 2005, done more than 3000 hrs and barely run in! Additions to the basic engine which I recommend are a Racor primary filter upstream of the engine, and an electric fuel lift pump between the Racor filter and the engine. This last can be put in or not as I see fit, and its function is to allow me take fuel from a very deep tank about 90cm below the engine's lift pump.

The very similar (same Kubota base engine) Nanni, which is marinised in France rather than the UK, is probably an equally good engine, but has an appalling record for (lack of) customer support in the UK, and I've heard many complaints, some on this forum.
 
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Another plus for the Beta 50. Fitted by Rustler from new and I'm very happy with it and with Beta's service. Installed 2005, done more than 3000 hrs and barely run in! Additions to the basic engine which I recommend are a Racor primary filter upstream of the engine, and an electric fuel lift pump between the Racor filter and the engine. This last can be put in or not as I see fit, and its function is to allow me take fuel from a very deep tank about 90cm below the engine's lift pump.

The very similar (same Kubota base engine) Nanni, which is marinised in France rather than the UK, is probably an equally good engine, but has an appalling record for (lack of) customer support in the UK, and I've heard many complaints, some on this forum.
+1 for Nanni importer Peachments not just for incompetence, but for being actively hostile to potential customers. They are doing Nanni a big dis-service, competition keeps prices down and Beta have no direct competition while Peachment are so dire to deal with. There are stories that Nanni marinised Kubotas are fitted with better heat exchangers, but somewhat apocryphal.
 
All very plausable but as soon as you said "(ideally annually but no one ever does it)" your plausability went out of the window!

may point was, a well looked after set would easily be able to exceed 25000 hours yet most engines be it yacht or motor yacht (the latter having embraced cd diesels) are changed at well below 5k if not lower and usually it’s due to poor maintenance/installation. in order of most common in my experience.

1. Rusty as hell due to a wet engine room and poor electricals.Owner fed up with repairs changes engine doesn’t fix leak, blames engine again.

2. Poor exhaust installation. Doesn’t have enough fall in the exhaust from the elbow, or there’s a crazy amount of back pressure caused by a poor exhaust routing. - rolling exhaust elbow/manifold failures and subsequent water in
in this this .general exhaust neglect!

3. Head gasket fails due to, overheating by raw water system constriction/ compounded by alarms not working or antifreeze has never been changed and is crystalized in the head. Causing hot spots

4. Loss of compression due to carbon build up on the valves, either charging while at anchor or, lack of oil service causing cam shaft wear and therefore timings retarded. Compounded by excessive valve lash the cylinder temps get to much and it’s all over.

honestly it doesn’t matter what you go for, it’s probably going to be a lack of maintenance that kills it prematurely.

there more to machinery servicing than changing the oil and filters, but that the economic decision you make doing it proper ain’t cheap or quick.

very few clean heat exchangers prior to a problem even fewer check injection pop pressure and timing as a matter of course.

I’m sure you will be happy with a beta 50 however make sure the orings are changed annually on the heat exchanger and they are well greased.
Also watch for failed seals on the water pump
 
+1 for Nanni importer Peachments not just for incompetence, but for being actively hostile to potential customers. They are doing Nanni a big dis-service, competition keeps prices down and Beta have no direct competition while Peachment are so dire to deal with. There are stories that Nanni marinised Kubotas are fitted with better heat exchangers, but somewhat apocryphal.

i would say the nanni manicooler is probobly marginally better. But it’s also a complete pain in the arse to get a new one unless your in France and my other big bear is the anodes in a stupid place.

I would go red over blue.
 
I don't think common rail diesels with electronic control have any place in a damp marine environment.
I would expect the working environment for an engine in the clean, dry bilge of a modern yacht to be a lot nicer - and less damp - than the under-bonnet area of a car driven in rain, sleet, snow, fog and salt spray.
 
Another plus for the Beta 50. Fitted by Rustler from new and I'm very happy with it and with Beta's service. Installed 2005, done more than 3000 hrs and barely run in! Additions to the basic engine which I recommend are a Racor primary filter upstream of the engine, and an electric fuel lift pump between the Racor filter and the engine. This last can be put in or not as I see fit, and its function is to allow me take fuel from a very deep tank about 90cm below the engine's lift pump.

The very similar (same Kubota base engine) Nanni, which is marinised in France rather than the UK, is probably an equally good engine, but has an appalling record for (lack of) customer support in the UK, and I've heard many complaints, some on this forum.

good shout on the Racor. I have reserved a special place in hell for those who fit new CAV’s! Too many bits and they are too fiddly and if your no careful to get it all lined up they leak.

since the install we are talking about is a Vetus, I’m going to bet it has one of their spin on type filters, which aren’t Too bad when combined with a water trap.

ps. Was pointed out to me that the pre filter is actually a pre strainer being on the suction side. —— I still call them filters otherwise no one gets what your banging on about!
 
+1 for Nanni importer Peachments not just for incompetence, but for being actively hostile to potential customers. They are doing Nanni a big dis-service, competition keeps prices down and Beta have no direct competition while Peachment are so dire to deal with. There are stories that Nanni marinised Kubotas are fitted with better heat exchangers, but somewhat apocryphal.
The yard who fitted my Nanni N2.14 said that Peachments are by far the nicest and most helpful engine supplier to deal with. My experience has been mixed: on the numerous occasions on which the engine failed in its first three years (all down to a dodgy fusebox, it eventually turned out) their technical people were extremely helpful and practical. On the other hand, having promised to pay the cost of fitting a replacement header tank - the original split - they completely failed to do so. I thought of taking them to court, but decided not to as the engine was still in its unreliable phase and I needed their continuing technical support.
 
I would expect the working environment for an engine in the clean, dry bilge of a modern yacht to be a lot nicer - and less damp - than the under-bonnet area of a car driven in rain, sleet, snow, fog and salt spray.

But some of us don't have cars in areas subject to those conditions:), whereas the boat is permanently in a salt air environment.
 
But some of us don't have cars in areas subject to those conditions:), whereas the boat is permanently in a salt air environment.

Cars in the UK and northern Europe will be subject to both wet and salty condition on the road in winter.

Even in the wilds of Africa we are not subject to salt on the road but when I go bundu bashing I can be up to my axles in water when crossing rivers.

Also in the subtropics the salty humidity in the coastal areas could be very detrimental to road cars.

Boats are in a salt air environment but less so in a nice warm engine box.
 
I'd be more worried about dirty diesel (far more common in marine applications and/or remoter cruising grounds - as we well know). I can't profess to understand enough about common rail injection to know what specific impacts contamination would have. And of course filters should protect the pump, injectors, etc. But sometimes things go wrong. I'd certainly rather be in a remote place pulling injectors from a mechanical than electrical injection engine.
 
There is an interesting thread on the motor boat forum about how Volvo don't support engines over 15 years old. Not too much of a problem for most stuff as there are alternative manufacturers making parts. The problem has come with ECU's as these are a bit more specialised and it seems that some people are being left with perfectly serviceable engines that won't run because of the electronics.
 
Quite coincidentally, I spent some time this morning helping a friend organise a recovery vehicle to take her car to the garage. The problem is that injectors have failed in the heavy rain we've just had. Engine a VW 1.6 TDI, so common-rail with electronic injectors. It's actually the second time these have failed on her car, and they normally cost £250 each, but at present, because they're so damn unreliable, and possibly because of production issues, there is a Europe-wide shortage and the price has gone up to £650 each - and one needs 4.

There's no way I will have electronic injectors on my boat. Period. Should my engine need replacing, which is hopefully not for a decade at least, I'll go all electric propulsion rather than have what seems the worst of both worlds.
 
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