Now then. Chrome is chome innit? There's no "marine grade" unlees you mean being ripped off and taking three times as long.
So! get thee along to thE London Chroming Company on the old kent road. Find xact address off google. Tis they who did that volvo car for the TV advert. AND my fab rocker covers on the t48. You can specify how mnuch chrome you want mdear. Note: shiny "chrome" is in fact mostly nickel, gotten by strip off paint or crud in acid bath, then Bzzz nickel plate and then last minute a quick chrome plate.
Will the Chrome my Baccy Tin for me? I used to have a Chromed Baccy tin, the late great John Bradley had one done for me as a Birfday Present years ago. I'd love another one. It was so sexy to pull my roll-ups out in a swish bar and make a fag.
I had some rails rechromed (or plated ?) about 4 years ago. They lasted about 3 months before they started to corrode. I have since found out that it is a nigh on impossible job unless you have laboratory like conditions and the original surface is perfect. Not likely in either case.
Simon - just had a look around my boat. It's mostly stainless steel which is still perfect. The bits of chrome work which need attention at the base of the s/s handrails, and even then it's only some of them that need rechroming - so obviously chrome does last as she's 20 yrs old. How do some classic car bumpers last for years and years? There must be various grades of chroming or rechroming. N'est pas ?
The nice jewish chap at london chroming will do all you worrying for you, already!
Yes, there are indeed infinite grades of chromium plating. First, the plating relies on a perfickly clean base, which means a decent clean, and perhaps a bead blast first, then an acid bath. Then for shiny chromium (aka "soft chrome") plate you actually plate the thing with nickel, till it it looks quite chromy. You could have thickish or thin or miserly scringey. Finallym, there's the chrome, more inert and resistant to attack, and this plating also could be thin or not so thin. Thinner is cheaper.
Think the nickel can be followed by gold plating, (relatively) dirt cheap though potentially naff.
Expect massively better results from one-off plating than nasty production chrome. Eg, gold plated bathtaps actually have less then half a micron of gold onnem. But gold plated jewellery is 4 microns othewise it wd wear off. Harleys have much more nickel/chrome than nasty jap bikes.
Hard chrome is chrome direct onto base metal, and is only for industrial applications, and not v shiny.
Chromium plating is possible onto aluminium, but always shite: the materials expend at differne rates so the plate come off soonish. Hence the advice that diecast plated is crap.
Now then, at the base of the stainless steel handrails.., are you sure it isn't stainless steel which has gorn orf a bit rustified? If it has gone a bit peely then it is plated like an old morris oxford bumper. It shd really be stainless steel. Try with a magnet: if it is magnetic, then it probly is chrome plated steel. But if not very magnetic, then it is stainless steel, which means that all this thread is a waste of time.
Ah but you can improve the quality of the shine, by having the base metal polished, then if you want really shiny shiny stuff. You can have the nickle buffed as well. As croydon plating did on a big block chevy of mine. Basically more shine=more money. Dont really see the point of having chrome on a boat in the salty stuff. Because unless its really plated to a high quality, its going to end up peely and pitted.
Not sure for your boat, but in Sarnico they still have some of those spare parts available.
Might be worth a call - they're normally willing to help, if they can.