Pulling up a muddy anchor chain / slippage

[chewi]

Thanks for the tips. I think I need to get used to the idea when that when the chain is vertical, you are still well attached.. It feels difficult to know when it's actually come off the bottom but I suppose you just keep an eye on bearings to shore etc.. Probably a matter of experience.

It sounds like that spot is pretty notorious. It looked great on the chart but hadn't taken in that ferry port runs 24/7 directly on the other shore.

A windlass sounds like is a future investment.. after some cheap rubber gloves.

get welders gloves instead.
Site 370 Leather MIG Welders Gauntlets Red Large - Screwfix

They are like gauntlets, keep arms clean too, they will take the wear and wash off. Rubber will not last.

 

[Daydream believer]

Shotley marina is at the mouth of the Stour, so one might ask the Op why bother anchoring. Clean comfortable berth, plus a beer in the Shipwreck, or a short walk to the Bristol Arms.
Suited me last weekend - 2 visits- on way to Ipswich & on way back. Short cruise too & from Bradwell.
No mud & clean decks. Crew showered as well.

 

[LittleSister]

Shotley marina is at the mouth of the Stour, so one might ask why you are bothering anchoring. Clean comfortable berth, plus a beer in the Shipwreck, or a short walk to the Bristol Arms.
Suited me last weekend - 2 visits- on way to Ipswich & on way back. Short cruise too & from Bradwell.
No mud & clean decks. Crew showered as well.

Because some of don't see it as a 'bother', but a very pleasant experience (despite the effort and mud). I used to berth in Shotley, but would often anchor in the Stour for the weekend (or Walton Backwaters, or somewhere up the Orwell, or further afield).

If you really want to minimise bother, why trouble with a boat? Staying at home is less bother.

 

[MontyMariner]

why bother anchoring

Marinas use up a lot of beer tokens, especially if single handed.

 

[Neeves]

You can buy a chain stopper to mount on deck behind your bowroller. It stops the chain running back out until you lift the flap that grips the chain.

It wont help with the mud bot gives you a breather between heaves when raising the anchor.

I put a bucket of seawater and a brush on the foredeck to wash off the chain a bit during recovery. Also pays to have another bucket in the cockpit to drop the dirty gloves into.

I bought a secondhand SL anchorman manual windlass .much easier.

It depends on your anchor but common practice is to have the bow of the shackle through the slot in the shank - the simple reason being it allows the shackle to articulate whereas if you use a 'D' shackle you can easily side load the shackle. And I have seen failed shackles subject to side loading, However some anchors, Manson's Ray (Bruce copy) is an example, where it has no slot, simply a circular hole, and you cannot pass the eye of the shackle (of the right size (and maybe any size) through the hole. To ensure security then use an oversized shackle - the biggest (within reason, you can attach to the chain and anchor.

I also not you are using a stainless bow shackle to connect chain to 'D' shackle - that shackle will almost definitely be the weak link in your rode, weaker ahi both chain and ''D' shackle. It costs peanuts, you rode chain will cost much more.

Mousing shackle pins can pay dividends - or use Loctite.

Your practice is quite commonplace - but easy to address.

Jonathan

 

[alahol2]

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[tmtracey]

You can buy a chain stopper to mount on deck behind your bowroller. It stops the chain running back out until you lift the flap that grips the chain.

It wont help with the mud bot gives you a breather between heaves when raising the anchor.

I put a bucket of seawater and a brush on the foredeck to wash off the chain a bit during recovery. Also pays to have another bucket in the cockpit to drop the dirty gloves into.

I bought a secondhand SL anchorman manual windlass .much easier.

Hi Graham,
How long does it take for your windlass to pull it up say 20m which is what I had out at the weekend?

 

[graham]

Not timed it but I would say quicker than by hand because its not so tiring.I turn the handle at a steady pace.Someone younger and fitter could rattle it up quickly.

 

[graham]

It depends on your anchor but common practice is to have the bow of the shackle through the slot in the shank - the simple reason being it allows the shackle to articulate whereas if you use a 'D' shackle you can easily side load the shackle. And I have seen failed shackles subject to side loading, However some anchors, Manson's Ray (Bruce copy) is an example, where it has no slot, simply a circular hole, and you cannot pass the eye of the shackle (of the right size (and maybe any size) through the hole. To ensure security then use an oversized shackle - the biggest (within reason, you can attach to the chain and anchor.

I also not you are using a stainless bow shackle to connect chain to 'D' shackle - that shackle will almost definitely be the weak link in your rode, weaker ahi both chain and ''D' shackle. It costs peanuts, you rode chain will cost much more.

Mousing shackle pins can pay dividends - or use Loctite.

Your practice is quite commonplace - but easy to address.

Jonathan

Have a closer look, both shackles are moused changing the stainless shackle is a fair comment though.

 

[rogerthebodger]

It depends on your anchor but common practice is to have the bow of the shackle through the slot in the shank - the simple reason being it allows the shackle to articulate whereas if you use a 'D' shackle you can easily side load the shackle. And I have seen failed shackles subject to side loading, However some anchors, Manson's Ray (Bruce copy) is an example, where it has no slot, simply a circular hole, and you cannot pass the eye of the shackle (of the right size (and maybe any size) through the hole. To ensure security then use an oversized shackle - the biggest (within reason, you can attach to the chain and anchor.

I also not you are using a stainless bow shackle to connect chain to 'D' shackle - that shackle will almost definitely be the weak link in your rode, weaker ahi both chain and ''D' shackle. It costs peanuts, you rode chain will cost much more.

Mousing shackle pins can pay dividends - or use Loctite.

Your practice is quite commonplace - but easy to address.

Jonathan

Any one like me with an anchor with out a slot for a bow shackle it would be very easy to get a stainless fabricator to make up a ring to fit through the round hole and weld the ring closed propelled to give the same effect as a bow shackle like sone of the old anchores used to have.

I may do that on mine once I get to the boat again

 

[tmtracey]

Not timed it but I would say quicker than by hand because its not so tiring.I turn the handle at a steady pace.Someone younger and fitter could rattle it up quickly.

Okay thanks. Would definitely be quicker with the better grip too. It was two foot pulled in and one foot slipping the other day.

 

[graham]

Any one like me with an anchor with out a slot for a bow shackle it would be very easy to get a stainless fabricator to make up a ring to fit through the round hole and weld the ring closed propelled to give the same effect as a bow shackle like sone of the old anchores used to have.

I may do that on mine once I get to the boat again

Only if its a stainless anchor though if you mix the two metals eventually the galvanizing dissappears .

Mine is a genuine Bruce god knows how old and it only has a hole not a slot so not possible to twist the bow end of a shackle through. I may extend the hole into a slot at some point and touch up with galvafroid paint or similar.

 

[tmtracey]

Shotley marina is at the mouth of the Stour, so one might ask the Op why bother anchoring. Clean comfortable berth, plus a beer in the Shipwreck, or a short walk to the Bristol Arms.
Suited me last weekend - 2 visits- on way to Ipswich & on way back. Short cruise too & from Bradwell.
No mud & clean decks. Crew showered as well.

Don't discourage people from anchoring Sam, the demand for your bow rollers will dry up! Mine's still going strong.

 

[Daydream believer]

Don't discourage people from anchoring Sam, the demand for your bow rollers will dry up! Mine's still going strong.

Well if you really must
May I suggest a tripping line to the anchor, alongside the anchor chain. Do not let it go on a fender keep the end on board. If you are worried about the 2 getting separated ( which they will) get one or 2 small cable ties & hold the 2 together mid length. Set them very slack..
When you are ready to go, pull up some chain which , if you put the engine in tickover, should be reasonably easy & not covered in mud.
Once things get awkward, take the tripping line along the side deck to the genoa winch & winch it in. It will break the anchor out & the chain will hang in a loop. The rope should not have too much mud on it. The cable ties, if small ones, will snap as you winch it in.
Then go forward & pull in the, now slack chain.
Some may drag on the sea bed. However, if you can motor gently in reverse into deep water you should clean it a bit. Same for the anchor, which may be hanging down just in the water. Once you have virtually all the chain in, let the tripping line go so the anchor swings round & pull it right in.
Then spend the next half a day cleaning the mud out of the non slip indents on the deck. Stour mud is evil

 

[Sticky Fingers]

Or, fit an electric windlass and eliminate all that hassle... well, except swooshing the mud off I suppose.

 

[Daydream believer]

Or, fit an electric windlass and eliminate all that hassle... well, except swooshing the mud off I suppose.

But on a small boat you need the battery,(do not forget you have to charge it) wiring etc. plus the installation & cost. It is not always an effective solution for some.

 

[fredrussell]

I would second the suggestion of a manual Simpson Lawrence Anchorman windlass. Wonderful things, wouldn’t be without mine. I’m not sure if they still make them but they often come up second hand on eBay.

 

[MontyMariner]

May I suggest a tripping line to the anchor, alongside the anchor chain. Do not let it go on a fender keep the end on board

I once had to 'rescue' a yacht that had put a tripping line back to the boat. Unfortunately he had tied it off at the bow the gone ashore.
The wind picked up, the anchor chain straightened up, the tripping line became taught and tripped the anchor.
I have often wondered what he thought when he returned and found that the boat wasn't where he had left it and his tripping line had been rearranged.

 

[Sticky Fingers]

But on a small boat you need the battery,(do not forget you have to charge it) wiring etc. plus the installation & cost. It is not always an effective solution for some.

True, of course. I guess it’s a question of priorities and preferences. For me the windlass is essential. I’d happily pay for the thing. But for others and probably the OP it’s not a priority.

 

[Neeves]

Another alternative to the suggestions for an anchor with a hole not a slot. Use a hammerlock of the appropriate size, it will articulate. It will also be much stronger, if you use a G100 device, than your chain, or anything in stainless that fits. Hammerlocks come in the same metric sizes as chain.

You do not, cannot, mouse theme - the design keeps the safely locked - hence 'Hammerlock'

2 downsides - they would fit in the slot horizontally and might be too wide for your bow roller (but maybe a smaller one will fit - if its G100 you have plenty of spare strength so can safely down size. They are not commonly galvanised - so buy 2 and throw out the old grotty one (I have mine galvanised)

A number of members, including us, use hammerlocks in the application.

The anchor, shackle (or whatever) and chain are all made from different metals. The chain is likely G30, the shackle is hopefully a G80 (Crosby) and the shank could be any of many alloys. This mix of alloys seems to allow preferential corrosion, rust, of the chain. Chop off the rusty links, usually 3 or 4, when they annoy you.

I'd post pics but I have limited internet access

Jonathan