Prop Shaft anode

[vyv_cox]

As the hull anode is obviously working, I see no point in removing it.

What is it protecting? Can it 'see' the objects it is connected to? My boat was equipped in exactly the same way but the anode was around the curve of the hull where it was well away from line of sight of anything. It did corrode though, which does not prove it was doing anything useful.

 

[Graham376]

What is it protecting? Can it 'see' the objects it is connected to? My boat was equipped in exactly the same way but the anode was around the curve of the hull where it was well away from line of sight of anything. It did corrode though, which does not prove it was doing anything useful.

Mine is on the bottom of the hull maybe about a foot from the tail end of the gearbox and just to the side of where the prop shaft appears. As well as engine, shaft, P bracket and rudder bottom hinge, it's also connected to the quadrant. Cast iron keel and through hulls not connected.

Before the shaft anode was fitted, the (expensive) prop anode only lasted a year.

 

[Tranona]

The engine does not need any protection, neither does the P bracket and arguably the steering gear and bottom bearing. Moody had a habit of wiring up too many things without fully understanding why. The only thing that needs protecting is the Featherstream and the shaft anode plus the one on the prop is doing the job. The hull anode might be doing something for the prop if the bridge is sound but the shaft and prop anode being closer and with good connection will be thew first to go.

 

[Daydream believer]

Painting the prop will double anode life by reducing the size of the cathode.

I did not know that, having never antifouled the prop. My boat goes in at the start of the season & gets a jetwash mid season, as it is coppercoated & as we all know, that does not work very well.
When I do the mid season wash I have to change the prop anode , which now costs circa £30 a pop
the prop does not suffer from much fouling as I do tend to use it a lot.
The saildrive is now changed to an sd130 due to a new engine fitted. The anode for the ambassador (lookalike) rope cutter would be circa £70+. I buy a standard one at £32 & machine it to fit. It lasts just about 1 season. I suppose a pukka one would do the same as there is less metal in it. The SD 120 ones only lasted 1 year.
If antifouling the prop could save me some anode wear, I might consider painting.
I am not arguing with VYV Cox, as I do not know, but asking the question. Do others agree re VyV Cox's comment? Currently it takes me 15 mins to clean the prop with strong acid. Job done. It would be more with paint & then I have to buy some form of prop paint at considerable cost
So the question is:-
Worthwhile, or not?

 

[vyv_cox]

I did not know that, having never antifouled the prop. My boat goes in at the start of the season & gets a jetwash mid season, as it is coppercoated & as we all know, that does not work very well.
When I do the mid season wash I have to change the prop anode , which now costs circa £30 a pop
the prop does not suffer from much fouling as I do tend to use it a lot.
The saildrive is now changed to an sd130 due to a new engine fitted. The anode for the ambassador (lookalike) rope cutter would be circa £70+. I buy a standard one at £32 & machine it to fit. It lasts just about 1 season. I suppose a pukka one would do the same as there is less metal in it. The SD 120 ones only lasted 1 year.
If antifouling the prop could save me some anode wear, I might consider painting.
I am not arguing with VYV Cox, as I do not know, but asking the question. Do others agree re VyV Cox's comment? Currently it takes me 15 mins to clean the prop with strong acid. Job done. It would be more with paint & then I have to buy some form of prop paint at considerable cost
So the question is:-
Worthwhile, or not?

All the info here Propeller antifouling with Velox

As it says, I now get two seasons out of the prop anode, previously only one, and more than four from the shaft anode, previously well used after two.

 

[Daydream believer]

All the info here Propeller antifouling with Velox

As it says, I now get two seasons out of the prop anode, previously only one, and more than four from the shaft anode, previously well used after two.

My malware bytes antivirus software always blocks your links so, unfortunately, I cannot look, without a URL that I can cut & paste to google.

 

[Tranona]

I did not know that, having never antifouled the prop. My boat goes in at the start of the season & gets a jetwash mid season, as it is coppercoated & as we all know, that does not work very well.
When I do the mid season wash I have to change the prop anode , which now costs circa £30 a pop
the prop does not suffer from much fouling as I do tend to use it a lot.
The saildrive is now changed to an sd130 due to a new engine fitted. The anode for the ambassador (lookalike) rope cutter would be circa £70+. I buy a standard one at £32 & machine it to fit. It lasts just about 1 season. I suppose a pukka one would do the same as there is less metal in it. The SD 120 ones only lasted 1 year.
If antifouling the prop could save me some anode wear, I might consider painting.
I am not arguing with VYV Cox, as I do not know, but asking the question. Do others agree re VyV Cox's comment? Currently it takes me 15 mins to clean the prop with strong acid. Job done. It would be more with paint & then I have to buy some form of prop paint at considerable cost
So the question is:-
Worthwhile, or not?

The 130 drive anode is over twice the bulk of the 120 so should last at least 2 years. I only changed my 130 once in the 5 years I had it. I painted the blades of the Flexofold (which did not need an anode) with Velox but did not have it long enough to now if it made any difference.

My Featherstream prop anode lasted less than a year so I have now painted the whole prop with Ecopower and added a hull anode. Only done last October so no feedback yet. However the logic is sound and will be disappointed if it doe not work, although doing 2 things at once may make it difficult to determine what works.

 

[Daydream believer]

The 130 drive anode is over twice the bulk of the 120 so should last at least 2 years.

I cannot see mine lasting a full season. Last year was short due to the engine change & certainly would not do another season. Although this year will also be short due to injury, I just cannot risk putting it back on