prop puller

mrangry

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12 Jun 2007
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Bit of a long shot but, does anyone have a prop puller that I could borrow as need to remove my prop which is a darglow featherstream on a 30mm shaft. I have tried the three legged screwfix jobs but they are too small to go round the boss. I am in Ardrossan on the Clyde and keen to know if anyone in the area has one as need it off asap to remove shaft which is shot.
 
Have you considered hiring a hydraulic puller from a tool hire firm?
I have a puller which was too small for a friends prop. My solution was to replace the 4 short link bars with 4 longer ones. Of course you need a length of 25*4mm steel flat. A means of cutting & drilling it to length then possibly 4 extra bolts if the originals need changing. It was OK for me as I use my puller quite a lot, so worth the effort.
 
Have you considered hiring a hydraulic puller from a tool hire firm?
I have a puller which was too small for a friends prop. My solution was to replace the 4 short link bars with 4 longer ones. Of course you need a length of 25*4mm steel flat. A means of cutting & drilling it to length then possibly 4 extra bolts if the originals need changing. It was OK for me as I use my puller quite a lot, so worth the effort.
The problem with most of the 3 legged pullers I have seen is that the dimensions of the spider part (cant think of better description) are too small. So the legs grip behind the prop but when tension applied on the thread, the legs are forced off the rear of the prop boss.
 
You can make one with a length of heavy bar and 20mm screwed rod
if yow wish I can probably be more specific but you will require workshop access
 
The problem with most of the 3 legged pullers I have seen is that the dimensions of the spider part (cant think of better description) are too small. So the legs grip behind the prop but when tension applied on the thread, the legs are forced off the rear of the prop boss.
A jubilee clip may stop the legs spreading and being forced off the prop.
 
The problem with most of the 3 legged pullers I have seen is that the dimensions of the spider part (cant think of better description) are too small. So the legs grip behind the prop but when tension applied on the thread, the legs are forced off the rear of the prop boss.

Would it be worth using a large enough jubilee clip round the boss part to stop the legs slipping?
 
It never ceases to amaze me that propellers don't routinely have tapped holes on the aft face of the boss. With these, it's easy to devise a means to remove a propeller.
 
A jubilee clip may stop the legs spreading and being forced off the prop.
Considered this, however i think it will just deform. I even asked the in house engineering company in the yard to be told, we are so busy it could be next month.
 
I made this from 10mm plate for my feathering prop:
prop puller.jpg
Not sure how the Featherstream is built, but on mine it is essential that the pulling force of the fwd plate is placed on the actual hub and not on the gear housing. Because of this a spider type of puller would not be appropriate.
 
Would it be worth using a large enough jubilee clip round the boss part to stop the legs slipping?
That is exactly what I use. The jubilee clip is now permanently in a triangular shape but it works a treat.

Then it is Heat, BFH and BFI.

((Big #### Hammer and Brute Force & Ignorance) :)

Good luck!
 
It never ceases to amaze me that propellers don't routinely have tapped holes on the aft face of the boss. With these, it's easy to devise a means to remove a propeller.

They do if you order them like it! I certainly subscribe to it, though most average yacht props come off with a modest puller the Clarke hydraulic puller is pretty good for the money. Don't forget a bit of heat works wonders, I used a hot air gun when I was in a pinch the other day and it sufficed!
 
That is exactly what I use. The jubilee clip is now permanently in a triangular shape but it works a treat.

Then it is Heat, BFH and BFI.

((Big #### Hammer and Brute Force & Ignorance) :)

Good luck!

A hammer should never be involved unless you want

A damaged output shaft bearings on your gearbox

Or B dents all over the place.

Modest heat adjacent to the keyway and a puller arranged properly is all you need
 
A hammer should never be involved unless you want

A damaged output shaft bearings on your gearbox

Or B dents all over the place.

Modest heat adjacent to the keyway and a puller arranged properly is all you need
Please note smilie at strategic point by comment. 🥴
 
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