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ccscott49

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Re: Re commissioning engine

Turn engine by hand, to make sure it isn`t seized and it has compression. Change engine oil, filter, change fuel filter, check coolant. Bleed fuel system, check all hoses are ok and renew as ness including clips., change impellor in raw water pump (coz its been sitting in one position for six years and is knackered), You can put soime WD40 in the bores, but if it has compression I wouldn`t bother, turn engine over on starter, with stop control in stop position, until oil pressure is seen, start engine and see if it`s all ok. You will probably find all is OK. Clean off loose rust, treat with rust killer or finnegans No1 primer, paint and bobs yer aunty!! IMHO of course. If the engine is easy to get out, I would be tempted to make sure it runs, then pull it out and do all the work at my leisure and on a bench/trestle!

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brianhumber

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Re:Agree

I agree - Diesels are pretty robust. If its stood for 6 years I would also have a good look see in the fuel tank for water/and or sludge.

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ccscott49

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Re:Agree

Ah! Mr. Tony W. But if you do all that first and find the engine is knackered internally, then surely all that was for nothing. I would advocate, finding out if the engine is worth spending money on first. Would you not say that is a sensible way forward? IMHO of course.

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Heckler

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Why?

engine stops six years ago, we assume that all is well, system is full of clean diesel. no air so diesel does not deteriorate, pump and injectors full of clean diesel, no prob.
only concern, as col so admirably covers, is lack of oil on moving parts.
could have a stuck piston and or valves. do the col bit and careful attempt at turning over will show up these.
my mate has just bought a moody 29 with a buhk 2 cylinder in, 3 yrs never even turned over. the compression was that good i couldnt turn it past top dead, used the decompresor to get it turned over and get some oil around and blow me down if it didnt start by accident!!
stu
stu

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AndrewB

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Re: Re commissioning engine

Sorry to be negative, but I think you'll be very lucky if this engine hasn't seized or at least developed rust damage in the cylinders. This is some advice I copied a while back for starting an engine where this may have happened:

"Remove the injectors and squirt a good quality lubricating oil or penetrating oil into each cylinder. This will loosen up frozen rings and sticky valves. After letting the oil penetrate the engine's internal components for a good period of time, turn the engine over by hand with the injectors still removed. After you turn over the engine by hand (injectors still removed), use the engine's starting motor to crank the engine. The oil pressure will build up and be forced through the oil passage ways. This will lubricate all of the components that are normally well lubricated by the system in normal operation. Important: cranking the engine with oil in the cylinders can cause damage because oil will not compress. The oil in the cylinders must be evacuated before reinstalling the injectors and trying to start the engine.

"The fuel system is very possibly frozen-up because of stale varnished fuel. This can cause the injectors, fuel rack and the fuel pump's plungers to stick and not deliver fuel. The entire fuel system should be thoroughly checked and repaired if needed prior to starting the engine. The sea water pump impeller, if not removed from the pump, can take the shape of the interior of the pump. The pump impeller can also be brittle - check it and replace. "

Shame it wasn't turned over every couple of months.

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ccscott49

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Re: Re commissioning engine

If it's seized, I respectfully suggest the old obselete engine is dumped not much point in pulling the pump and injectors apart, which will be expensive, not a DIY job. Rust damage in bores, is sometimes a blessing, as it holds oil on the bores, like crosshatch honing, in fact RR used to put there blocks outside for a few weeks, after machining and before final honing, to allow them to normalise and the bores to get a little rusty, the micro pores, caused by the rust, held oil allowing a shorter ring bedding in period and better lubrication! Amazing eh!

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mickshep

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Re: Re commissioning engine

Pal of mine insisted on doing same with the iron barrels off his Triumph Bonnie racer after a rebuild. Mick.

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tcm

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Re: Re commissioning engine

i agree with others. wd40, then givit a kick. Then if its an engine rather than a potential dive site, change oil and filters.

More worrying mite be what's in the fuel tank? Use a hand pump (like a pela) to suck up a sample if poss. If a bit crap, then try get someone with the right gear to suck the lot out, flush and refill.

Incidentally, if this boat is in florida, it's all sunny and loverly innit? Even poxy old yanks cars work fine for 40 years. So i predict no probs.

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penfold

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Re: Re commissioning engine

I think you'll find that the average temp and humidity in good ol' FLA means that most things made of poorly protected steel celebrate their tenth birthday with a trip to the scrapper; the conditions you're thinking of exist most typically in southern California and Arizona, which is where you go to buy Olde Englishe cars of Sporte, like Healeys and Trumpets and MGs, saved from their usual antics of rusting before your very eyes by warm dry roads with no salt on them.

cheers,
david

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Heckler

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Re: Re commissioning engine

bloody hell i'd forgotten about that. confirm we used to do it too
stu


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