Plumbing in a Calorifier

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cpedw

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I am considering moving the calorifier so that the pipe run from calorifier to taps is shorter. Currently it's about 5.5m and takes about 10sec for hot water to come through. It feels like a long time, and wasteful, in use. The current location has the calorifier close to the engine but I figure the extra pipe run for cooling water from engine to calorifier will not present any problems.

My current question is whether the vertical location of the calorifier is significant. My feeling is it should be low, probably its bottom level with the bottom of the cold water tank but I don't know if that is correct. What do people think? I've yet to investigate if there's anywhere with room near to the taps, at any level.

Are there any other considerations that I should keep in mind?

Background: the engine is Volvo 2030D, the boat Nordship 35.

Derek
 
I'm afraid I think you'll be wasting your time and energy. If you could halve the distance you'll only save about half a litre of water. If you don't already have one, fit a thermostatic mixing valve to the calorifier. If you do move it, its height relative to the water tank is immaterial, as it works with pressurised water.
 
I found changing the plumbing to 10mm polypipe instead of 15mm made a big difference. Less wasted water and no leaks, as the old 15mm system was lots of elbow joints where the 10mm would simply bend. The reduction in flow at the shower was remarkably little.
 
Things to consider:-
As long as the calorifier is lower than the engine header tank, it will be fine, but depending on pipe runs, you may have to make a bleeding facility at the highest point. The flow through the calorifier depends on the ability of the engine circulating pump, so extending the pipework could be too much for the pump.
 
The calorifier in my motorsailer is at head height in the saloon, well over a metre above the top of the engine. I installed a float type snifter valve just above it but only bled it on first filling it. Otherwise it remains full of coolant even with the cap off the engine header tank.
I did add a booster pump although I am not sure it was needed.
 
pvb said:
If you don't already have one, fit a thermostatic mixing valve to the calorifier.
Click to expand...
What is the benefit of a thermostat? There was one but it only ever delivered tepid water, regardless of adjustment, so I removed it. Should I get a new one?
 
cpedw said:
What is the benefit of a thermostat? There was one but it only ever delivered tepid water, regardless of adjustment, so I removed it. Should I get a new one?
Click to expand...

The idea of a thermostatic mixer valve is that the water in the calorifier can get very hot - much hotter than you need it at the tap. So the mixer valve blends cold water with the hot water going to the tap, to reduce the temperature of the hot water. The result is that there's no chance of being scalded in the shower, no waste of water while you try to blend the temperature at the tap, and every litre of water at 80 degrees in the calorifier will provide a couple of litres of water at shower temperature. It sounds as if your mixer valve was faulty. I think they're well worth having.
 
Can be worth putting simple self adjective insulation form around the pipes. It won't solve the problem when you first use the hot water after a while but it will help after dinner when using it on and off regularly.
 
KompetentKrew said:
I have been meaning to do this - do you have any recommendations, or is there any kind I need?

I have a Sigmar marine calorifier / boiler, looks a lot like this: https://www.svb24.com/en/sigmar-marine-compact-water-heater.html
Click to expand...

You need a thermostatic valve, plus the various fittings and pipe needed to make it work. For your Sigmar calorifier, there's a Sigmar mixer valve kit, see https://www.svb24.com/en/sigmar-marine-thermostat-mixer-valve.html

The webpage above includes a download link for the installation manual.
 
pvb said:
You need a thermostatic valve, plus the various fittings and pipe needed to make it work. For your Sigmar calorifier, there's a Sigmar mixer valve kit, see https://www.svb24.com/en/sigmar-marine-thermostat-mixer-valve.html

The webpage above includes a download link for the installation manual.
Click to expand...

Your recommendation to fit a thermostatic mixer valve is correct and I am not disagreeing with you, your advice is always good, but I would like to add a variation that I have installed. I fitted the TMV in the water supply to the heads to protect from scalding when washing/showering, set at 40 degrees, but left the hot water supply to the galley un-mixed. I found that the first 6 seconds of cold water into the washing up bowl was just the right amount to mix with the subsequent full heat water when it came through to give just the right temperature for washing the dishes. This meant I wasted less water.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Last edited:
Plum said:
Your recommendation to fit a thermostatic mixer valve is correct and I am not disagreeing with you, your advice is always good, but I would like to add a variation that I have installed. I fitted the TMV in the water supply to the heads to protect from scalding when washing/showering, set at 40 degrees, but left the hot water supply to the galley un-mixed. I found that the first 6 seconds of cold water into the washing up bowl was just the right amount to mix with the subsequent full heat water when it came through to give just the right temperature for washing the dishes. This meant I wasted less water.
Click to expand...

That's another solution. I don't do much dishwashing - tending to use microwave meals a lot! My wife thinks it's appalling...
 
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