Photonic Universe Solar kits

[JumbleDuck]

I have a back-contact semi-flexible 50W panel from PU. It worked extremely well, but after 5 years the top layer of plastic has turned milky and output seems to be down about 50%. It wasn't stupidly expensive and I don't feel aggrieved, because for the cost I think it was a reasonable lifespan. Two 50W Chinese panels from eBay lasted two and one season(s) respectively. The PU will shortly take up a new role trickle charging a classic car, so it ain't dead yet.

 

[Quandary]

I have been following this thread and it has encouraged me to consider fitting some panels to keep/ recover charge in our batteries when it is sitting on its unserviced summer home berth (facing west). We have two 12v 105a domestic plus an 80 amp engine start battery which also serves the windlass. The free space available on the hatch garage is 770x 480mm. with a camber of approx. 20mm. It is under the boom. The space would accommodate 2 20a. panels or a single 30 amp. It would seem that these could be either rigid adjusted on spacers or semi rigid flush with the cambered top? I presume that a pair of panels with one nearly always out of the shade might do better than one centred larger one? Do semi rigid panels allow curvature in either direction?
What has put me off up to now is finding a tidy cable route as the Moody S31 has rigid moulded headlinings with the cable ducts running forward to the mast post, a long run from there back to the controller or batteries.
Of course I can address some of this to the supplier but would wecome any response from the forum.

 

[ashtead]

Quandary -yes see my post earlier - I can see how cabling works with arch or rail mounted panels but am curious to do which waterproof ports people suggest for the cable to run down to the battery apart from running forward to the mast and threading through the existing pipe or suchlike taking mast cables.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I have been following this thread and it has encouraged me to consider fitting some panels to keep/ recover charge in our batteries when it is sitting on its unserviced summer home berth (facing west). We have two 12v 105a domestic plus an 80 amp engine start battery which also serves the windlass. The free space available on the hatch garage is 770x 480mm. with a camber of approx. 20mm. It is under the boom. The space would accommodate 2 20a. panels or a single 30 amp. It would seem that these could be either rigid adjusted on spacers or semi rigid flush with the cambered top? I presume that a pair of panels with one nearly always out of the shade might do better than one centred larger one? Do semi rigid panels allow curvature in either direction?
What has put me off up to now is finding a tidy cable route as the Moody S31 has rigid moulded headlinings with the cable ducts running forward to the mast post, a long run from there back to the controller or batteries.
Of course I can address some of this to the supplier but would wecome any response from the forum.

The maximum size semi-flexible panels I can find to fit are:

Sunbeam: 37W (378 x 535) or 2 x 21W (434 x 277)
Photonic Universe: 30W (505 x 400)
Lensun: 30W (600 x 350)
Specta: 35W (693 x 414)
Sunware: 36W (638 x 459)

but if your aim is simply/mainly to keep things topped up, even smaller would do fine. You can only bend semi-flexibles in one direction (ie simple curves) but that can be any direction. Your 20mm camber over 480mm width (presumably) is 5% which should be fine for any plastic backed panels but not for aluminium backed ones, which are normally limited to 3%.

If it doesn't look too ugly I would go for rigid, because they will be stronger, cheaper and more durable than semi-flexible. I wouldn't worry about the longer cable run - just use reasonably chunky cable. The most you're like to see is 2.5A or so.

Alternatively, if it's only for when you're away, you could run a temporary wire in through hatch or ventilator and remove it when you use the boat. You could even use a removable panel, although I would be a little worried about unauthorised removal.

 

[Quandary]

Thanks for that, some useful information, will go down to the boat and sit and have a ponder.

 

[yotter]

We also have panels on the coachroof and we also have a moulded underside to the coach roof . Not keen on cutting new holes, we run the cables through a openable hatch under the sprayhood. I have not yet found a neat way to run the cables to the batteries from the hatch. I have gone for semiflexible and mounted them on 5mm marine ply (varnished). I know they are now pretty rigid but it works well for me

 

[tillergirl]

Quandary -yes see my post earlier - I can see how cabling works with arch or rail mounted panels but am curious to do which waterproof ports people suggest for the cable to run down to the battery apart from running forward to the mast and threading through the existing pipe or suchlike taking mast cables.

Consider a small swan neck.

 

[Quandary]

I have had an idea, our boat has a lewmar escape hatch from the aft cabin, it is in a recess under a hinged lifting part of the cockpit seat, like a locker lid,. So the idea is to place the panel under the seat which can be left raised to let the sun at it when moored, the recess has double skin moulded bulkheads at each end so the cable can go in via one of them, (the cockpit speaker is already there) The controller will be on the coaming face inside the aft cabin, accessible but not prominent, and the batteries are under the bed so immediately adjacent. No new holes, no boom shadow, uses a rigid panel on a demountable frame, can be angle south, short hidden cable runs and a kick out mounting if escape is ever necessary, just need to rig a bit of shockcord to hold the hinged seat up.
Time to get the measuring tape out again, and to cycle over to the Rings to check the angle of the sun!