earlybird
Well-known member
Halfords sell "Shock & Unlock" spray. Freezing and release agents are claimed. Never used it but it might be helpful with alloy pistons.
Penta 2002 won't turn over.
- Thread starter Contest1
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RichardS
N/A
I agree .... choose a piston that is not near TDC or BDC to start the rapping with a block of wood and a large hammer. Don't touch the TDC/BDC piston until you have some movement. If you can get the crank moving you can check for conrod state by checking piston clearance against the top of the block.
Richard
pvb
Well-known member
It's rather a limited choice with a 2-cylinder engine though...
Contest1
Member
Now if only I knew which piston was on the down stroke.
VicS
Well-known member
IIRC from the pictures posted earlier one is fairly near the bottom of its stroke. The other must be the same distance from the top of its stroke. Worth I would say alternately tapping both.
VicS
Well-known member
You might be able work it out from the position of the valves
Contest1
Member
I can check again but I think the aft valve,the one the compression lever operates on, was open as this push rod was well higher.
Contest1
Member
Looking again at the foto it looks like the lock up occured on the aft cylinder indicating this was on the compression up stroke.
pvb
Well-known member
It's an interesting puzzle. If the water entered via the exhaust system, then the exhaust valve must have been open.
NormanB
Well-known member
I would want the engine out. Access from the crankshaft will help and in any case you will want the pistons and rings out for inspection after all of this. Sorry.
anoccasionalyachtsman
Well-known member
I have to agree. You may get lucky, but using force when it's that close to tdc/bdc may cause so much more damage. As Norman intimates, the rings are going to be rusty.
Edit: The camshaft timing mark should tell you whether it's before or after tdc, but I'd still want to do the job properly.
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RichardS
N/A
Errrr... yes.
But I was trying to extend my TDC/BDC advice to be a bit more general to cover all engines. Oh well .... some fall on stony ground.
Richard
dingdongs
Member
looks like a rebuild so engine out and remove little end mains and crankshaft. should be able to soak piston rings from both sides after a few hours get the hide mallet out or if you know someone with a small press they may need to use a piece of ally so you dont damage the crown of the piston and ring grooves. may need to start soaking the head too.
Iliade
Well-known member
Be careful that the water did indeed come from the exhaust before spending lots on rebuilding: Cylinder head and block cracks are common, as are failed head gaskets, and any of these could have caused your problem. The motor runs fine (ish), maybe with a little white smoke, maybe not, then when you close it down water finds it's way in over time and the motor is hydraulically locked when you go to restart...
- Welding head cracks is not impossible.
- Skimming head and block is relatively cheap.
- Welding and reboring cylinders has been done.
- Second hand VP 200X motors are under a grand.
- Welding head cracks is not impossible.
- Skimming head and block is relatively cheap.
- Welding and reboring cylinders has been done.
- Second hand VP 200X motors are under a grand.
Contest1
Member
Becoming more concerned about how the water entered the piston. Looking again at piston liner I wonder about the very pronounced rust mark running down the first liner.
Any no point in continuing with trying to release the pistons.
Starting to get the engine ready to pull out.
Not going to disturb the injector pumps so Just disconnect the throttle and stop.
Planning to lift off the foot studs keeping the anti vibration pads with the engine.
Getting a buddy to lift from the gearbox and hopefuly that will allow the engine slid forward a bit at a time. Useing the mainsheet purchase for lift from the boom.
Any advice on an easier method welcome.
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NormanB
Well-known member
Unless you have access to an alongside crane there is no real easier method.
A bit of grunt work, always helped by strategically placed 2 x4s to lever and slide the engine forward, until you can get it plumb to the lifting point on the boom.
I would take extra special care to ensure all fuel connections are well capped especially on injection pump. Remove all loose pipes on the engine after labelling, to reduce snagging hazards.
If you have not already done so, pump/vacuum the oil out prior to moving the engine.
Watch yer back!
A bit of grunt work, always helped by strategically placed 2 x4s to lever and slide the engine forward, until you can get it plumb to the lifting point on the boom.
I would take extra special care to ensure all fuel connections are well capped especially on injection pump. Remove all loose pipes on the engine after labelling, to reduce snagging hazards.
If you have not already done so, pump/vacuum the oil out prior to moving the engine.
Watch yer back!
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Contest1
Member
RichardS
N/A
There was a thread a couple of months ago all about that type of coupling and how to remove it with plenty of photos. The OP on that occasion was doing it the wrong way or something.
If you know what that coupling is called you could so a search for the previous thread. Sorry I can't help but I didn't contribute to it so have no idea what to search for.
I think Vyv Cox's website was also mentioned in the thread so do a Google for his website.
Richard
earlybird
Well-known member
The half-coupling and shaft are sometimes cross drilled with a dowel or taper pin driven through. This can be difficult to see under rust.
Separately, the R&D flexible coupling should have 2 metal strips forming cross pieces as fail-safe devices. From your picture, these seem to be either missing or badly bent.
Separately, the R&D flexible coupling should have 2 metal strips forming cross pieces as fail-safe devices. From your picture, these seem to be either missing or badly bent.
pvb
Well-known member
You might consider unbolting the gearbox and removing the engine without the gearbox.