Penta 2002 won't turn over.

[NormanB]

No anti-syphonn and no previous problems.
I mentioned earlier the severe weather between last run and current situation.
Didn't mention that the rear mooring had also broken loose from the block or whatever is below the water.
According to the locals there was a 1 meter surge in the marina. Could the mooring have held the stern long enough to allow the exhaust outlet to flood the block?

I do not want to add to your woes but cranking with that much water in could have achieved hydraulic lock and bent a rod.

 

[VicS]

No anti-syphonn and no previous problems.
I mentioned earlier the severe weather between last run and current situation.
Didn't mention that the rear mooring had also broken loose from the block or whatever is below the water.
According to the locals there was a 1 meter surge in the marina. Could the mooring have held the stern long enough to allow the exhaust outlet to flood the block?

Maybe long enough to flood the exhaust system... although that should be prevented by a swan neck in the system before final exit through the transom. Is there a swan neck?

 

[skip50]

Yes but that is the hose which would be diverted to an antisiphon device if one were needed; http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7726000-90-11760.aspx

Yes that is what I did with my 2003 last year, on a surveyor's recommendation.

 

[stevie69p]

Just back from my boat this evening which is fitted with a VP2001. Inlet hose comes off the pump, runs up to over the top of the engine, then comes down into the pipe at the head (so basically a big loop). I'm fairly certain there should be an anti-syphon at the top of it mind you...

 

[VicS]

Just back from my boat this evening which is fitted with a VP2001. Inlet hose comes off the pump, runs up to over the top of the engine, then comes down into the pipe at the head (so basically a big loop). I'm fairly certain there should be an anti-syphon at the top of it mind you...

And you should check regularly that the valve at the top that opens to let the air in is working properly and is not bunged up with salt

 

[Contest1]

Maybe long enough to flood the exhaust system... although that should be prevented by a swan neck in the system before final exit through the transom. Is there a swan neck?

No swan neck either. Exhaust lies along the bottom to then rises directly to the exhaust mixer port.

 

[Contest1]

I do not want to add to your woes but cranking with that much water in could have achieved hydraulic lock and bent a rod.

No cranking as would not turn over since I came back. Only the force I applied while trying to get movement so probably ok on the conrods. Push rods out and they are true.
Pistons still held by the rust crud so still somebwork to get them free.

 

[NormanB]

OK - at East that is good news.
Anything - diesel, plus gas, - top up the space on top of the pistons and leave overnight.

 

[RichardS]

No swan neck either. Exhaust lies along the bottom to then rises directly to the exhaust mixer port.

Presumably a water trap muffler is also installed somewhere in the exhaust path as that would also counter short term back-filling. If there's no water-trap and the outlet connects directly to the mixer elbow it does indeed sounds like a recipe for disaster.

Apologies if the water trap question has already been covered.

Richard

 

[Contest1]

Presumably a water trap muffler is also installed somewhere in the exhaust path as that would also counter short term back-filling. If there's no water-trap and the outlet connects directly to the mixer elbow it does indeed sounds like a recipe for disaster.

Apologies if the water trap question has already been covered.

Richard

Yes. There is a watertrap muffler just before the rise to the mixing elbow.

 

[Contest1]

OK - at East that is good news.
Anything - diesel, plus gas, - top up the space on top of the pistons and leave overnight.

Thats my next step. No movement as yet. Diesel next.

 

[RichardS]

Yes. There is a watertrap muffler just before the rise to the mixing elbow.

That's interesting. Depending upon the mounting height of the muffler compared to the exhaust outlet, it might well be the case that the water trap, which would have to fill up with water to allow ingress into the cylinders, is still full of water. I'm not sure how you could easily check this (perhaps remove the elbow- watertrap hose and use a torch?) but it might answer the question of where the water came from.

Richard

 

[Contest1]

That's interesting. Depending upon the mounting height of the muffler compared to the exhaust outlet, it might well be the case that the water trap, which would have to fill up with water to allow ingress into the cylinders, is still full of water. I'm not sure how you could easily check this (perhaps remove the elbow- watertrap hose and use a torch?) but it might answer the question of where the water came from.

Richard

Already disconected the riser were it joins the mufler and found water in the riser. The mufler is at the lowest point.

 

[VicS]

No swan neck either. Exhaust lies along the bottom to then rises directly to the exhaust mixer port.

There should be a swan neck ( even if just the exhaust hose rising in loop as high as possible) before the final exit through the transom. This should, in all normal circumstances, prevent the exhaust system being flooded via the tail pipe

Yes. There is a watertrap muffler just before the rise to the mixing elbow.

Water trap or muffle or a combined device like the VP one? A water tarp is important and must be sized to contain all the water that would normally be left in the exhaust hose when the engine is stopped. I would hazard a guess though that there was not one fitted originally by Westerly! ( we added one to a Berwick because there was not one) A muffle is a silencer and probably not needed if there is a water trap. We did away with the original Elastomuffle in the Berwick when the water trap was fitted ( It split anyway!)

Already disconected the riser were it joins the mufler and found water in the riser. The mufler is at the lowest point.

As one might have guessed. Still does not tell us if the water came in via the tail pipe or siphoned in via the inlet though! Any other indication that the stern might have been held down by the mooring? Water in lockers or bilges ?

 

[Contest1]

Water in lockers or bilges ?[/QUOTE]
No.Thank God.
BTW this boat is my recently aquired Contest 29.
The Centaur is for sale but no time to get her tidied up.

 

[Contest1]

Soaked pistons in diesel over the weekend.
No movement sofar. Diesel is still sitting on top of pistons??
Have tried some gentle tapping on the piston heads but maybe its time to try to break the rust grip, if thats what is holding .
As you knowbfrom the fotos the aft piston is near TDC so probably the most siezed.
Im thinking a section of suitable sized ms pipe and a heavy hammer but were to aquire the pipe section here is a problem.

 

[earlybird]

I think that a block of wood would be kinder to the piston than steel pipe, and more readily available. Try alternately rapping the pistons and turning the crankshaft.
The impacts should be taken near the periphery of the piston of course, not the centre of the crown
At near TDC much of the hammer-blow may be taken by the con-rod.

 

[Contest1]

At near TDC much of the hammer-blow may be taken by the con-rod.

One if my many concerns. Might be better to pull the engine out but thats a last resort.

 

[Mister E]

With there having been water in the bores then there is a possibility that a Con Rod may be bent. Is there any sign of water on the dip stick?

Diesel is probably a bit thick to get into the lower piston rings, Plus Gas is a lot better.

 

[Contest1]

Looked for Plus gas. Will try online.
Never ran since water ingress. No sign of water on the dip stick.