Panacea or Snake oil?
- Thread starter rafiki_
- Start date
MrB
Well-Known Member
I got an email about this earlier and wondered the exact same thing.:ambivalence:
BruceK
Well-Known Member
[2068]
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Worth a try, if the cost is reasonable?
rafiki_
Well-Known Member
£50 David
Whitelighter
Well-Known Member
I’ll give it a go in SCM - the ultimate proving ground
I have some success with some other stuff I trialed for mby (aquacote prop) but they went out of business before the article was published
I have some success with some other stuff I trialed for mby (aquacote prop) but they went out of business before the article was published
[2068]
...
Worst case would be a boat that does 8kts, and enough fouling to make Seafood Bisque for eight people.
Let us know how it goes.
BruceK
Well-Known Member
At that price I'm prepared to give it a punt I wonder if it will be any good on outdrives? I'm finding Trilux 33 useless where I am. It does say it can be applied to aluminium, put not sure if it has to be bare metal application or will sit on a primer
Bouba
Well-Known Member
What I would be interested in before I try it is how is next years application done. Does the old stuff have to be removed and is it easy or can it take another top coat
oldgit
Well-Known Member
How on earth have all the boat builders and commercial shipping outfits managed to ignore this revolution in marine technology ?
Pretty certain all RN vessels will be ashore in weeks when this promo email drops on their doormats ?
Pretty certain all RN vessels will be ashore in weeks when this promo email drops on their doormats ?
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Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Will it stay on - thats the first BIG question.
I haven't yet found anything that actually sticks to the props.
Usually it is OK for about 100 miles then it gradually comes off.
There is a lot of power being dissipated from a prop driving a boat at full speed.
For me, there are two problems to solve.
1. - Make it stick
2. - A coating that barnacles don't like to grow on.
If this product solves those two problems, I'm up for it.
That said though, I don't really want to be the guy who finds that it doesn't work.
Getting this stuff off if it doesn't work can be a real problem.
Usually, some of the coating remains in those "hard to get at" places.
I haven't yet found anything that actually sticks to the props.
Usually it is OK for about 100 miles then it gradually comes off.
There is a lot of power being dissipated from a prop driving a boat at full speed.
For me, there are two problems to solve.
1. - Make it stick
2. - A coating that barnacles don't like to grow on.
If this product solves those two problems, I'm up for it.
That said though, I don't really want to be the guy who finds that it doesn't work.
Getting this stuff off if it doesn't work can be a real problem.
Usually, some of the coating remains in those "hard to get at" places.
Whitelighter
Well-Known Member
Robert got the aquacote off without any moaning.
Well enough he triluxed my gear last year (even though I didn’t ask him too
Well enough he triluxed my gear last year (even though I didn’t ask him too
markc
Well-Known Member
Agreed. I sent them an email asking what case studies they have, considering the only example on their site is a bloke with a jet wash. Also asked for the detailed application instructions and the process for re-coating the following season.
TBH, I can't see that it will stick for very long
jrudge
Well-Known Member
It is cheap enough to be worth a go unless it is really tricky to get on. Mark - do post the reply.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Robert got the aquacote off without any moaning.
Well enough he triluxed my gear last year (even though I didn’t ask him too
Yea - but getting it off properly without scratching the bronze underneath.
It is very difficult to get into all the little crevices.
Remember, I polish mine.
vas
Well-Known Member
fwiw,
last year I abraded properly (Mike wont like that...) my props, shafts, tabs to 80grit
applied 3-4-5 V. LIGHT coats of Velox primer by spraying it on (i.e. 80% goes to the surrounding env...)
applied 4-5 V.LIGHT coats of Velox antifoul same way spraying it on from around 20cm on a day without any breeze.
Result, still on and generally clean (wont dive in the marina to have a look now though, will take pics when boat is out in a couple of months)
I was told by a local grp repair man that the problem with velox is thick layers which flake off, cannot go thinner than spraying, so that seems to work.
Also tested some tab areas with another similarly foul smelling primer already in a spray can and much cheaper meant to be for priming galvanized steel before painting. Also looks like it's stuck fine so I'll use that this year and save some dosh on the velox primer
V.
last year I abraded properly (Mike wont like that...) my props, shafts, tabs to 80grit
applied 3-4-5 V. LIGHT coats of Velox primer by spraying it on (i.e. 80% goes to the surrounding env...)
applied 4-5 V.LIGHT coats of Velox antifoul same way spraying it on from around 20cm on a day without any breeze.
Result, still on and generally clean (wont dive in the marina to have a look now though, will take pics when boat is out in a couple of months)
I was told by a local grp repair man that the problem with velox is thick layers which flake off, cannot go thinner than spraying, so that seems to work.
Also tested some tab areas with another similarly foul smelling primer already in a spray can and much cheaper meant to be for priming galvanized steel before painting. Also looks like it's stuck fine so I'll use that this year and save some dosh on the velox primer
V.
Portofino
Well-Known Member
The will it last Q ?
Each boats prop situation is different so a “ It works on mine “ does not necessarily mean it will work on yours .
Revisiting the cavitation thread briefly there’s various degrees of heat and pressure along the blades , not necessarily constant , mostly variable depending ( not exhaustive list ) your prop speed , your AoA the way the boats trimmed , the boat speed .
Anecdotally I have noticed the hub area of mines cleans off after a good run .Anything inc fouling spins off to shiny metal .
Also being warm in the season and pretty high torque being sent through there’s only a minor drop of performance.ie I can still plane with fouled sterngear just takes a bit longer and knocks a few knots off for given rpm .
But on a long run the performance gradually comes back as they self clean .
So there’s no motivation from me for a “ panacea “
Having said that I can and do snorkel/ dive etc to scape up the sterngear , so the fuel waste point is valid to a point but as Hurricanes implys 100 miles @ 1800 rpm they will be practically as smooth as a babies bottom , paint and fouling all washed off .
Needs to last a whole season not just a few weeks at the start .
Each boats prop situation is different so a “ It works on mine “ does not necessarily mean it will work on yours .
Revisiting the cavitation thread briefly there’s various degrees of heat and pressure along the blades , not necessarily constant , mostly variable depending ( not exhaustive list ) your prop speed , your AoA the way the boats trimmed , the boat speed .
Anecdotally I have noticed the hub area of mines cleans off after a good run .Anything inc fouling spins off to shiny metal .
Also being warm in the season and pretty high torque being sent through there’s only a minor drop of performance.ie I can still plane with fouled sterngear just takes a bit longer and knocks a few knots off for given rpm .
But on a long run the performance gradually comes back as they self clean .
So there’s no motivation from me for a “ panacea “
Having said that I can and do snorkel/ dive etc to scape up the sterngear , so the fuel waste point is valid to a point but as Hurricanes implys 100 miles @ 1800 rpm they will be practically as smooth as a babies bottom , paint and fouling all washed off .
Needs to last a whole season not just a few weeks at the start .
markc
Well-Known Member
Here is the very lame (IMHO) reply from Prop Defender...
"The detailed application instructions are enclosed with each kit and they are also available on the web www.propdefender.com
In addition on home page under 'how long does it last' there is a link to a You Tube video showing the coating standing up to a 2000 psi industrial water jet.
Your third question is difficult to answer. Theoretically you should not have to overcoat but should the coating be damaged then all that is needed is thoroughly clean the coating surface with the degreasing solution and apply a new top coat over the existing."
If their only testing was done by a bloke in a pair of wellies with a jet wash, then I think I'd rather spend £50 on some wine!
"The detailed application instructions are enclosed with each kit and they are also available on the web www.propdefender.com
In addition on home page under 'how long does it last' there is a link to a You Tube video showing the coating standing up to a 2000 psi industrial water jet.
Your third question is difficult to answer. Theoretically you should not have to overcoat but should the coating be damaged then all that is needed is thoroughly clean the coating surface with the degreasing solution and apply a new top coat over the existing."
If their only testing was done by a bloke in a pair of wellies with a jet wash, then I think I'd rather spend £50 on some wine!
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jrudge
Well-Known Member
I appreciate the 2000 psi thing is not real life- but the reasons these things fail is they fall off - so maybe there is something in it?
It is not dear and nothing else seems to work. Interesting the props can't be used for 4 days - 1 day to dry 3 days to cure.
It is not dear and nothing else seems to work. Interesting the props can't be used for 4 days - 1 day to dry 3 days to cure.
