Painting Fiberglass Boat Interior help!

[amfiska]

Got a 1988 Searay Sundancer 250 that so far I stripped the liner (it needed it, falling apart and mouldy), and ordered some 6mm foam backed headliner to install. However, I still need to clean the old foam, seal the hatches (unsure if the hatches leak or it was condensation) and now thinking to paint it Before installing the headliner. To make it cleaner, neater and maybe will be a damp proofing exercise too?
Please advise on the best paint for the indoor of it. Fiberglass .. Something easy to apply to do the job and any advise on this is welcome...So confused on 2 part epoxy, 1 part epoxy, rustoleum, etc. Picture for shock effect (this is what state is it at now, in UK, Bristol).
Thank you very much in advance.
Regards,
Scared newbie.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I don't see any point in painting it if it's going to be covered in headlining, just remove all of the old foam and any adhesive residue, so that the new material can stick securely.
It looks like the lining was applied directly to the deckhead on your boat. I don't wish to discourage you, but it has been commented on this forum that replicating it can be extraordinarily difficult as it would have been applied to the deck moulding, (positioned upside down), before it was assembled to the hull.
I do hope you have kept the old material as patterns for cutting out the new panels! On my previous boat the vendor had removed the original headlining and started to install new, to his own design, using vinyl covered thin plywood panels screwed up to battens epoxied to the deckhead. I had to take down the sections that he had put up, and start afresh with narrower sections that could be handled more easily singlehanded. I had to make it up as I went along, and it took me all the spare time that I had available over a period of almost two years. The local upholsters' quote of €2000 (which I thought astronomical at the time), would actually have been money well spent.

 

[amfiska]

I don't see any point in painting it if it's going to be covered in headlining, just remove all of the old foam and any adhesive residue, so that the new material can stick securely.
It looks like the lining was applied directly to the deckhead on your boat. I don't wish to discourage you, but it has been commented on this forum that replicating it can be extraordinarily difficult as it would have been applied to the deck moulding, (positioned upside down), before it was assembled to the hull.
I do hope you have kept the old material as patterns for cutting out the new panels! On my previous boat the vendor had removed the original headlining and started to install new, to his own design, using vinyl covered thin plywood panels screwed up to battens epoxied to the deckhead. I had to take down the sections that he had put up, and start afresh with narrower sections that could be handled more easily singlehanded. I had to make it up as I went along, and it took me all the spare time that I had available over a period of almost two years. The local upholsters' quote of €2000 (which I thought astronomical at the time), would actually have been money well spent.

Thank you so much for this....I haven't rushed in buying the paint yet. And you're probably right, will be an extra effort for me. It does seem that the liner is original as the hatch frames are screwed on top of it. But it had to go...my God, it had to. I kept the old ones for pattern indeed, and measured them all..and photographed. I am reluctant to let the new material get contaminated with the old mould so will drag it out if I struggle to do it by measurements.

 

[Wansworth]

Probably one of the horror jobs,if you can afford it get a man into do it,good ventilation and breathing equip needed in mho

 

[amfiska]

Probably one of the horror jobs,if you can afford it get a man into do it,good ventilation and breathing equip needed in mho

Ah, all money is going into materials, new batteries, new foam for cushions.. so it will be me, my husband and our 18 year old son if he bothers. I am planning to spray it with vinegar first to kill off the mould before we clean the old foam...masks and eye protection of course. Weather being rubbish still, I have plenty of time to plan still.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Thank you so much for this....I haven't rushed in buying the paint yet. And you're probably right, will be an extra effort for me. It does seem that the liner is original as the hatch frames are screwed on top of it. But it had to go...my God, it had to. I kept the old ones for pattern indeed, and measured them all..and photographed. I am reluctant to let the new material get contaminated with the old mould so will drag it out if I struggle to do it by measurements.

Spray the old material with Patio Magic, or perhaps the W5 Mould Remover spray from Lidl, and allow to dry.
Regarding suspected leaks from the hatch frames. A bucket of water, or a garden hose will help to discover whether or not they leak. You could tape up some blue paper towel material around them because when they get wet the moisture caused dark patches, pinpointing any leaks.

 

[Wansworth]

Make exact paper patterns to cover the whole area,do roof first

 

[Stemar]

If you want to paint it, I'd be inclined to use something like this

Suretherm Anti Condensation Paint - with glass microspheres

Anti-mould, anti-condensation.

I need to do the headling in our heads, and I'm wondering about using that if I can get a decent finish to the GRP because it'll be SOOOO much easier than any sort of material with all the double curvatures

 

[amfiska]

If you want to paint it, I'd be inclined to use something like this

Suretherm Anti Condensation Paint - with glass microspheres

Anti-mould, anti-condensation.

I need to do the headling in our heads, and I'm wondering about using that if I can get a decent finish to the GRP because it'll be SOOOO much easier than any sort of material with all the double curvatures

That's interesting, you would leave the ceiling painted, that's it?
I was also wondering if it's worth adding some of this Reglectix stuff to insulate it, maybe it'd help with less condensation?

 

[amfiska]

Spray the old material with Patio Magic, or perhaps the W5 Mould Remover spray from Lidl, and allow to dry.
Regarding suspected leaks from the hatch frames. A bucket of water, or a garden hose will help to discover whether or not they leak. You could tape up some blue paper towel material around them because when they get wet the moisture caused dark patches, pinpointing any leaks.

Good shout on the Lidl stuff, I'll check them out, thank you. And the hatch trick..I will try that too. Thank you!

 

[MADRIGAL]

You might try International's Epoxy Primecote paint. It's designed to adhere well to GRP and to provide a moisture barrier. It's white but can be painted over. You might forego reinstalling the headliner. A friend did this on the underside of the coachroof in his yacht, and left the Primecote uncovered. He added some varnished strips to cover the ends of some hardware bolted through from above and made a brilliant job of it. Best of luck with your project.

 

[JerryRhum]

I've given up scraping, sanding, wire bushing mine. After hours and hours of hard work it it still completely uneven and no amount of paint would hide that.
I can't face anymore time spent on it, when I would rather be enjoying the boat.

I've just ordered some van lining carpet. The videos on youtube make it look easy to install

My cabin is a lot smaller than yours. I've ordered a 3x2 meter roll. That should fit most of the ceiling with minimal cutting.

good luck

 

[Sandy]

I've just removed the headliner from the 1986 boat. No plans to use any paint on surfaces that will be re-hidden from view.

 

[Stemar]

That's interesting, you would leave the ceiling painted, that's it?

Possibly. It depends on if I can get a decent finish, but

I've given up scraping, sanding, wire bushing mine. After hours and hours of hard work it it still completely uneven and no amount of paint would hide that.
I can't face anymore time spent on it, when I would rather be enjoying the boat.

I wouldn't be too surprised to find myself in the same position

I've just ordered some van lining carpet. The videos on youtube make it look easy to install

If it wasn't the heads, with a shower, this is what I'd do, but I just can't see "carpet" working in a shower. I'm still mulling over alternatives.

 

[Medway Mudlark]

Like this perhaps.....Very easy to fit with 2 people and did the whole interior for 300 quid

 

[JerryRhum]

If mine looks a quarter as good as that I'll be very impressed.

 

[Medway Mudlark]

The stuff I used is not carpet, but lining material from a place in Yorkshire that trims VW campers and vans. It has a stretch quality that enables you to 'mould' it around things, like beams and glassed in blocks. Also comes in different colours and if you order enough they will include the spray adhesive too. The picture was taken in 2016 and it is still looking as good as when we installed it.
We found the same problems remove the old linings. But an electric drill with a selection of wire wheel attachments did the job, it is a very mucky job though, taking me about 5 weekends to get it prepared, but worth it. ( Wife left me alone for that one!!). The key is to take your time and do the prep thoroughly as you will have to live with the finished product. If you use this stuff the adhesive is strong stuff, once on it really does not come off easily at all, and if you get adhesive on the surface a cloth with white spirit removes it if you are reasonably quick. The boat is a 1983 Fjord 815 (28ft).

 

[V1701]

I too would go with stretchy van liner carpet, it's warm to the touch and easier to apply. I once did an aft cabin with just new (inexpensive) carpet, that too was much more pleasant than the vinyl. Cork tiles is another option but that foam backed vinyl is horrible. The only thing I've seen worse was a wallpapered (I kid you not!) quarterberth, I ran away from that boat as fast as my little legs would carry me...

 

[JerryRhum]

I have finally got around to putting the ceiling felt up.

This is what it looked like before:


the stages of the felt going up:




and the (nearly) finished product:


It looks so much better I'm now wondering whether to do the walls.

 

[Medway Mudlark]

Yes do....Remove as much of the woodwork as you can, lightly key up the sides, as it looks as though its not long been painted (clue is in the masking tape). and do the sides, it will give the cabin a nicer and more modern feel, and the sides won't be so cold.