Padlocks that are frost proof.

sarabande

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I've just returned from a struggle with a frozen padlock. A new one which had iced up internally a few days ago, so I had cooked it in the Rayburn for a couple of hours, then liberally squirted gun oil (thin) into the inner workings.

To no avail; this morning (-5C) it was iced up once more, and I had to warm up a half-empty bottle of water under my woolly jacket for 20 mins, then pour the contents slowly over the metal body, to free the cylinders.

Apart from the traditional male answer of peeing on a frozen padlock, there must be better answers than incubating a water bottle. I'll buy a couple of cheap lighters and leave those in the car, but the answer, especially for boating purposes where a frozen padlock could have more serious consequences, must be to have a padlock that does not freeze solid when it's cold.

FWIW, the padlocks are Yale ones, so I would have expected better performance, but can anyone recommend a quality one which definitely, certainly and without any question, does NOT freeze ?


TIA
 
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If the marketing blurb is to trusted, a Masterlock Zenex composite could be a solution, operable down to -40 apparently. No comment on their efficacy to a determined or knowledgeable attack, then again most padlocks can be neutralised within seconds.

Aside from pee, other warm liquid or a lighter you might try another messy option, a thick grease or similar.
 

Fr J Hackett

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It's most likely a condensation problem so you could try drying the lock again and filling it with petroleum jelly, viscous enough to stay put inside the lock but should allow it to operate.
A very good lock is the Abloy stainless steel but like any other condensation inside would cause it to freeze solid.
 
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I went down that road with a similar padlock from our local Poundshop

In the interests of education, whilst padlocks might be a visual deterrent to some, you might find the following of interest. (apologies if I'm repeating something you and everyone else already knows, I didn't until recently)

Not too long ago my niece moved to a new property, the previous owner had not left keys to the padlocked shed, so she called me for advice. After 10 minutes online I called her back to say I could remove the padlock without the key. The preparation took me 10 minutes, the execution was a startling 20-30 seconds. It turns out drinks cans can be used for all kinds of useful things!

If you're comfortable with a padlock being little more than a visual deterrent that's all good, if you're actually concerned about really protecting the thing you have locked up, a more serious investment might be called for. The Abloy mentioned above is an excellent example.

All that said, the technique youtube taught me might not work on a well frozen lock, so there is that :rolleyes:
 

Champagne Murphy

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I've always blasted them with a watrr repellent like wd40 (once the lock has warmed enough to de ice) then poured in quite a bit of oil. It lasts about a year but thats in soft Suffolk. The frozen north may be less forgiving.
 

Topcat47

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I've been converted to Seaworld Stainless padlocks. For many years I have been replacing padlocks with monotonous regularity due to any number of reasons. Even the SS and brass ones seized up after a while. My oldest Seaworld has done five years and is as good as new. the only maintenance it gets is a squirt of GT85 and in cold weather, i've only had to squirt a little car lock antifreeze on it once. None of the others has ever even needed that.

I may try to open it with a shim, but I doubt if that'd work with a frozen lock.
 
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claymore

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I've just returned from a struggle with a frozen padlock. A new one which had iced up internally a few days ago, so I had cooked it in the Rayburn for a couple of hours, then liberally squirted gun oil (thin) into the inner workings.

To no avail; this morning (-5C) it was iced up once more, and I had to warm up a half-empty bottle of water under my woolly jacket for 20 mins, then pour the contents slowly over the metal body, to free the cylinders.

Apart from the traditional male answer of peeing on a frozen padlock, there must be better answers than incubating a water bottle. I'll buy a couple of cheap lighters and leave those in the car, but the answer, especially for boating purposes where a frozen padlock could have more serious consequences, must be to have a padlock that does not freeze solid when it's cold.

FWIW, the padlocks are Yale ones, so I would have expected better performance, but can anyone recommend a quality one which definitely, certainly and without any question, does NOT freeze ?


TIA
I find it difficult to believe that you have anything worth locking up and anyway - I thought you were a trusting sort of a soul......
 

sarabande

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I find it difficult to believe that you have anything worth locking up and anyway - I thought you were a trusting sort of a soul......

That was on the previous farm. The new one has two fields which give on to a public road, and the landlord wants locks on those gates to prevent sheep and horses having collisions with cars and people. Bit of a pain, but it's his land, and he has previous experience of gate problems.


And you're right; there are very few things in the shed that are worth locking up, but they would be a hell of a lot of work to replace.
 

wombat88

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Apart from pee, which has a 100% success record and is reasonably inexpensive I have found soaking the thing periodically in windscreen de-icer simple and effective in the past.
 

claymore

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That was on the previous farm. The new one has two fields which give on to a public road, and the landlord wants locks on those gates to prevent sheep and horses having collisions with cars and people. Bit of a pain, but it's his land, and he has previous experience of gate problems.


And you're right; there are very few things in the shed that are worth locking up, but they would be a hell of a lot of work to replace.
You must have some very smart sheep and horses down there if it takes a padlock to keep them in. Might I suggest you switch to Texels - they really are dim. Not sure about horses.
 

Yngmar

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It's most likely a condensation problem so you could try drying the lock again and filling it with petroleum jelly, viscous enough to stay put inside the lock but should allow it to operate.
A very good lock is the Abloy stainless steel but like any other condensation inside would cause it to freeze solid.

+1 any oil or other runny products will not work for that reason, nor will stuff that evaporates away (WD-40). Something with the viscosity of grease is needed. Load up a cheap plastic syringe with some (doesn't matter what, vaseline, silicone grease, lithium grease - whatever waterproof stuff you've got on board), and inject it until it squeezes out. Now your lock is full of grease, displacing any water that could freeze in there. May need reapplication after inserting the key.
 

sarabande

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The only problem with that is the bunch of farm keys live in a jacket pocket afterwards, and will collect all the dust and debris therein.
 

Fr J Hackett

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The only problem with that is the bunch of farm keys live in a jacket pocket afterwards, and will collect all the dust and debris therein.

Small poly bag, self sealing variety. Bit of a faff but you can't have everything. Short of that have a few glasses of water before you go to the fields you should then be able to summon up enough pee to unfreeze them but if that doesn't work don't be tempted to blow in them:eek:
 

Yngmar

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The only problem with that is the bunch of farm keys live in a jacket pocket afterwards, and will collect all the dust and debris therein.

Leave a ziploc bag in the cockpit. Contained therein the grease syringe for reapplying, a small rag for wiping your key clean and a pebble from the beach so it all doesn't fly away.
 
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