Overhead Valve-Spring compressor tool

[Boaty_Pete]

Hi Guys, I'm intending to change the valve stem oil seals without removing the head.
There are several tools available but my reasearch has mixed reviews across all of them.
This is on a TAMD63P.
I'd be grateful for recommendations of a liked tool, or one to avoid. currently edging towards this one.
Thanks.

 

[ElJames]

There are many different types out there you need one that you can lever easily depending on your strength

 

[LittleSister]

Funny to think that valve spring compressor tools used to be so common (along with feeler gauges, TDC finders, etc. etc.). Anyone who did much of their own car maintenance and repairs would have had one, or at least known a mate/neighbour they could borrow one from,

There must be hundreds of thousands of the things rusting away in the back of garages, or in waste tips.

P.S.
Reminds me I have in the shed, unused since mis-spent youth riding already then ancient 1950s Brit motorbikes:
- a gadget for finding TDC (body that goes in spark plug hole, captive sliding rod in the centre of it);
- a valve grinding tool (short length of wooden dowel with small rubber 'plunger' on either end),
- feeler gauges;
- gadget for pumping oil down clutch/brake etc. cables;
- numerous and various imperial sized spanners (unlike the above, these have had occasional use);
- and probably numerous other contraptions that would puzzle future archaeologists.

A pity there aren't more second-hand tool shops or market stalls, where one could find such things when needed, and get rid of them when not.

(If I ever get round to having a proper clear out, there's a local voluntary charitable outfit that collects old tools of all sorts, repairs/cleans them up as necessary, and ships them out to Africa.)

 

[rafiki_]

Funny to think that valve spring compressor tools used to be so common (along with feeler gauges, TDC finders, etc. etc.). Anyone who did much of their own car maintenance and repairs would have had one, or at least known a mate/neighbour they could borrow one from,

There must be hundreds of thousands of the things rusting away in the back of garages, or in waste tips.

P.S.
Reminds me I have in the shed, unused since mis-spent youth riding already then ancient 1950s Brit motorbikes:
- a gadget for finding TDC (body that goes in spark plug hole, captive sliding rod in the centre of it);
- a valve grinding tool (short length of wooden dowel with small rubber 'plunger' on either end),
- feeler gauges;
- gadget for pumping oil down clutch/brake etc. cables;
- numerous and various imperial sized spanners (unlike the above, these have had occasional use);
- and probably numerous other contraptions that would puzzle future archaeologists.

A pity there aren't more second-hand tool shops or market stalls, where one could find such things when needed, and get rid of them when not.

(If I ever get round to having a proper clear out, there's a local voluntary charitable outfit that collects old tools of all sorts, repairs/cleans them up as necessary, and ships them out to Africa.)

The OP wants to change the valve stem seals without removing the head. While I’ve done many head rebuilds, they’ve always involved removing the head first. The only time I’ve seen stem seals replaced with the head in situ was on Wheeler Dealers where Edd China used air pressure through the spark plug hole to keep the valves in place.

 

[TK Blue MAX]

The OP wants to change the valve stem seals without removing the head. While I’ve done many head rebuilds, they’ve always involved removing the head first. The only time I’ve seen stem seals replaced with the head in situ was on Wheeler Dealers where Edd China used air pressure through the spark plug hole to keep the valves in place

Grandad showed me how to do this when i was about 10 years old, take spark plug out, turn crank to BDC, feed a few feet of string through plug hole , then slowly rotate crank towards TDC, hey presto ,valves held in place , remove collets by smacking a appropriate sizes socket on the retainer, change stem seal and then repeat for other cylinders

 

[Boaty_Pete]

I have a compressor, and a dummy injector, but have also considered the rope-trick. Still undecided.
It's a little more difficult to do the rope trick through an injector hole in a diesel.
On my engine it'll probably be compressed air.

 

[TK Blue MAX]

It's a little more difficult to do the rope trick through an injector hole in a diesel.

Can you get it in through the heater plug maybe ?

 

[penberth3]

Hi Guys, I'm intending to change the valve stem oil seals without removing the head.
There are several tools available but my reasearch has mixed reviews across all of them.
This is on a TAMD63P.
I'd be grateful for recommendations of a liked tool, or one to avoid.View attachment 202903 currently edging towards this one.
Thanks.

My experience of clever gadgets isn't good! I'd suggest watching someone else do it on You Tube before you make your choice.

FWIW I've never changed oil seals only, I've always had burnt/dirty valves so taken the head off. More work but it does give you a chance to inspect things.

 

[jon and michie]

FWIW I've never changed oil seals only, I've always had burnt/dirty valves so taken the head off. More work but it does give you a chance to inspect things.

That will give you peace of mind as you cruise along without any nagging doubts that something you should have done or maybe something is a miss

 

[Boaty_Pete]

I've borescoped the cylinders and the valves and cylinders all look in good order. It's just part of an ongoing maintenance at this point, not because I'm burning oil.
I've had the injectors serviced for the same reason.
If I am burning oil, it's not enough to notice movement on the dipstick during the season. maybe just enough to be a little excessive at idle on startup.
These can be smokey engines at startup, and all maintenance helps.
I'll get the one in the image and see how it goes.

 

[Alicatt]

Borescoped the starboard engine as it is using oil, internals look good and bores are pristine and you can see the crosshatching, valves look fine, compression is on the low side but within tolerance and she holds the compression, head looks a little sooty though, so when the boat comes out the water the head will be coming off and new valve seals fitted etc.
Engine(s) is(are) still producing plenty of power and the boat makes the book speed from when they were new 50 years ago.