ash2020
Well-Known Member
I did try squeezing the bulb like f**k when it started stalling, to no avail.
Outboard woes
- Thread starter ash2020
- Start date
ash2020
Well-Known Member
The water telltale flows vigorously from the first pull. Never slows down.
oldbloke
Well-Known Member
I know you are in an out of the way spot but if you keep a fuel can in the boot of the car, next time you reach civilization you can fill it. Otherwise, you can get Aspen and similar delivered through the wonders of the Internet.
TBH , at this point I would get the local outboard fixer doesn't have to be a Tohatsu agent to come and sort it. It may cost a bit but sometimes life is too short. Metaphorically and literally for most of us on here
TBH , at this point I would get the local outboard fixer doesn't have to be a Tohatsu agent to come and sort it. It may cost a bit but sometimes life is too short. Metaphorically and literally for most of us on here
ash2020
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's what I do, keep a can in the boot, but it's only since reading all these comments that I've realised just how important the E5 is. I'm going to tip all the 10 litres of boat fuel into our van, which runs on anything, and fill with fresh E5.
On the other matter, I often wonder what you get for a "service". I'm perfectly at home stripping a carburettor down and the electronic ignition presumably either works or doesn't, I'm sure they don't have special HT test rigs. What else is there apart from visual checks? They don't take the head off or measure the crank end float. I'm genuinely curious.
lustyd
Well-Known Member
Having never had gums in any carb I’ve cleaned I’ll have to take your word for it.
Perhaps you have an explanation for the oxide layer and oxide powder you’d like to put forwards as you’re the expert.
ash2020
Well-Known Member
Calm down you two!
Egret
Well-Known Member
Evaporated a little bit of last years slightly cloudy petrol in a tray in a safe place - wind blowing out over flat field - was surprised how much wax/gum there was left in the tray.
lustyd
Well-Known Member
Probably best keep the air off it then
oldbloke
Well-Known Member
Last year I had persistent trouble with what I presumed , correctly as it happens, was my idle jet being blocked. I failed to sort it despite my best endeavours. So this spring I took it to the outboard man who ultrasonically cleaned the carb and jets and cured it. He says he automatically does this for any service nowadays.
As far as a service goes. If it moves, and it shouldn't, tighten it. If it should move , and it doesn't, lube it.
Mister E
Well-Known Member
I had a similar problem with a 15hp Honda outboard.
It turned out to be the accelerator jet blocked.
A dose of carb cleaner having taken the top of the carbon sprayed through the jets sorted it.
It turned out to be the accelerator jet blocked.
A dose of carb cleaner having taken the top of the carbon sprayed through the jets sorted it.
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thinwater
Well-Known Member
Been there, done that, back when I was young and dumb.
How about a halyard and a helper? Obviously there are bridles, but an even better way (depending on the motor) can be to remove the cowling and bolt a chain to the flywheel using the pulling threads. Very secure. This engine is more like 70 kg, thus, the tackle. Pad the stern area and cockpit with a quilt.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Yes. Bingo!!
e10 and e5 can draw enough water to make a weak electrolyte. carbs have brass bits in an aluminum body, perfect for galvanic corrosion. Add the tinyist bit of salt and you have a disaster in the making.
The solutions are:
- Keep the gas dry. Use it up.
- Use an effective anti-corrosion additive. Biobor EB, Stabil 360 Marine (not the red stuff for mowers), and Merc Quick Store are very good. Most of the rest are pure snake oil.
Yes, I have done exhaustive field and lab testing. I chaired an ASTM working group on the topic some years ago (ASTM is US and UK). Not theory but proven science. I started using Biobor EB years ago and it was a game changer. No carb problems in 10 years with many engines.
BTW, gum is VERY seldom an issue in e10 and E5 carbs. The ethanol dissolves. it. The crud is from corrosion. The dust does not have to get by the filter, because it is generated in the carb.
This carb never saw anything but e10. Lots of jet clogging. I changed practices, and never had a problem for the next 10 years. And I have not drained a carb in 10 years either No gum. I do sail all years, so the gas never sits in the carb for more than ~ 4 weeks; 6-8 months off could be different.
(Biobor EB is for gas, completely different from Biobor for diesel)
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Refueler
Well-Known Member
No worries ....
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Pal of mine owns the local Garden machinery dealership - Jonsered / Husqvarna .... he's always commenting on the gums and blocked jets in machines he gets in for 'repairs' .....
My advice given to him ages ago - he passes on to clients .... guess what - he see's them less than before ... strange that. He's glad - seems crazy to be happy about less service work - but in fact he prefers it - as his workshop is then more available for more serious work.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Yes. Bingo!!
e10 and e5 can draw enough water to make a weak electrolyte. carbs have brass bits in an aluminum body, perfect for galvanic corrosion. Add the tinyist bit of salt and you have a disaster in the making.
The solutions are:
- Keep the gas dry. Use it up.
- Use an effective anti-corrosion additive. Biobor EB, Stabil 360 Marine (not the red stuff for mowers), and Merc Quick Store are very good. Most of the rest are pure snake oil.
Yes, I have done exhaustive field and lab testing. I chaired an ASTM working group on the topic some years ago (ASTM is US and UK). Not theory but proven science. I started using Biobor EB years ago and it was a game changer. No carb problems in 10 years with many engines.
BTW, gum is VERY seldom an issue in e10 and E5 carbs. The ethanol dissolves. it. The crud is from corrosion. The dust does not have to get by the filter, because it is generated in the carb.
This carb never saw anything but e10. Lots of jet clogging. I changed practices, and never had a problem for the next 10 years. And I have not drained a carb in 10 years either No gum. I do sail all years, so the gas never sits in the carb for more than ~ 4 weeks; 6-8 months off could be different.
(Biobor EB is for gas, completely different from Biobor for diesel)
It may interest you that I was for many years not only a member of ASTM - but also consultant. This came about because when I was Regional Manager in an International Inspection Company - most Regionals joined IP ... I decided to be the ASTM guy.
That led to various interesting consultation papers and groups I was involved in ... Gasoline being one.
Later - I was consulted by RYA and Cruising Association particularly on Diesel and the changes .. incl Red ... but at various times also on gasoline.
At various times over those many years - Additives - not only being operator of - but also intermediary and advisor to major Oil Co's ... for Light. Medium and Heavy Distilates as well as GTL ...
My labs in Baltic were used for various deevelopment work being unlike typical labs - we catered for works that most others shied away from.
ash2020
Well-Known Member
Now you see, I very, very rarely pay anyone to do anything and yet I love spending the extra money from that on buying tools! Consequently, I have almost every tool imaginable for woodwork, metalwork, car repairs, electronics, electrics, microscopy, plumbing, spectroscopy, fibre optics, temperature, pressure, etc. I've got underwater ROVs, Sky drones, kites, you name it. So it goes very much against the grain to pay for a service. What I do is find out exactly what the service includes and then do it myself. My research today has shown that a £150-£200 annual service includes changing oil, plug replacement, seal replacement, maybe fuel filter replacement, not impeller, not carb stripdown. A genuine Tohatsu "service kit" is £35 including impeller so I'll do it all myself, thank you very much, and with the money I save, I will buy a £60 ultrasonic cleaner from Amazon and strip down and clean the carb (and all my other carbs) to pristine condition. Result!
ash2020
Well-Known Member
Found it. See result a bit later.
ash2020
Well-Known Member
No helpers available, I'm Billy no mates. That's always been the problem. All my friends live a very long way away. That rig looks spectacular! Definitely a contender for a Darwin award! No, seriously, quite impressed as it's a big engine. I was hoping to use the boom and mainsheet tackle but it's nowhere near long enough. I have rigged up a 3:1 block 'n tackle to lift the motor up on its slidey bracket but it wouldn't be man enough to lift right off and lower into a dinghy. I am relying on lifting it off when the boat is safely in the front garden. As it happens, I went to the boat this after and was very pleased to find the fault and therefore will not need to bring the motor home for servicing. I can confidently motor 2 miles up the river to the lift out facility on the 28th. In the meantime, I feel safe sailing / motoring round to Lantic bay for an evening sunset between now and then. Thanks for the input. See fault later.Been there, done that, back when I was young and dumb.
How about a halyard and a helper? Obviously there are bridles, but an even better way (depending on the motor) can be to remove the cowling and bolt a chain to the flywheel using the pulling threads. Very secure. This engine is more like 70 kg, thus, the tackle. Pad the stern area and cockpit with a quilt.
ash2020
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. I have been using E10 but I will absolutely be using E5 next season. I will give it a complete stripdown and ultrasonic clean over winter and service the rest of the motor. I'm not sure how to choose a good additive. In the U.K. we don't have the same stuff. I suppose the best respected brands are STP and Wynns but there are as many opinions as there are different brands. I would normally strip the carb every winter so I wouldn't have thought corrosion would be an issue over 1 season. I found the current problem (see later) but this has been an extremely interesting thread and has certainly added hugely to my knowledge of the subject. Thank you for your contribution.Yes. Bingo!!
e10 and e5 can draw enough water to make a weak electrolyte. carbs have brass bits in an aluminum body, perfect for galvanic corrosion. Add the tinyist bit of salt and you have a disaster in the making.
The solutions are:
- Keep the gas dry. Use it up.
- Use an effective anti-corrosion additive. Biobor EB, Stabil 360 Marine (not the red stuff for mowers), and Merc Quick Store are very good. Most of the rest are pure snake oil.
Yes, I have done exhaustive field and lab testing. I chaired an ASTM working group on the topic some years ago (ASTM is US and UK). Not theory but proven science. I started using Biobor EB years ago and it was a game changer. No carb problems in 10 years with many engines.
BTW, gum is VERY seldom an issue in e10 and E5 carbs. The ethanol dissolves. it. The crud is from corrosion. The dust does not have to get by the filter, because it is generated in the carb.
This carb never saw anything but e10. Lots of jet clogging. I changed practices, and never had a problem for the next 10 years. And I have not drained a carb in 10 years either No gum. I do sail all years, so the gas never sits in the carb for more than ~ 4 weeks; 6-8 months off could be different.
(Biobor EB is for gas, completely different from Biobor for diesel)
ash2020
Well-Known Member
Funny, I would have thought that time to profit ratio on "servicing" would be a little gold mine. I guess it must get very boring though.