Outboard Gear Lever frozen

[seadog30]

We have a Tohatsu 3.5hp fourstroke approx 6 years old.

We have not used the motor for over a year and it has been laid up in the garage (sprayed with oil, covered up and stored verticle on a wall bracket before layup)

On checking it over today I found that the forward/ nutral gear lever was jammed solid in nutral, the engine turns over ok on the pull cord and started on the third pull.

The question is "can I get at the gear lever to lubricate and clean it up without taking the powerhead off ?"

Thanks in anticipation of an easy fix.

 

[West Coast]

Not familiar with this particular outboard but if like all others I have encountered, gearbox is at the base of the shaft, linked to the gear lever by a simple linkage. The linkage can usually be separated at some location in the shaft to allow the gearbox to be removed from the shaft. Access to where the linkage is joined accessed via a largish hole in the shaft.

If you can disconnect the linkage at this point, you can then see if the problem lies at the gear lever - or the gear box?

 

[VicS]

We have a Tohatsu 3.5hp fourstroke approx 6 years old.

We have not used the motor for over a year and it has been laid up in the garage (sprayed with oil, covered up and stored verticle on a wall bracket before layup)

On checking it over today I found that the forward/ nutral gear lever was jammed solid in nutral, the engine turns over ok on the pull cord and started on the third pull.

The question is "can I get at the gear lever to lubricate and clean it up without taking the powerhead off ?"

Thanks in anticipation of an easy fix.

The problem is almost certainly that corrosion has frozen the shift lever where it passes through the housing. Common problem especially when there is no lubrication nipple fitted at this point. I

I doubt you will access the connection to the shift rods without removing the power head . I would try to free it without!

Heat , in the form of boiling water poured over the housing at this point, combined with a good release oil such as Plus Gas might free it but it rather depends on whether the inner or outer end is causing the trouble. Be very careful not to apply too much force or you will break the lever off ... then you will have to remove the power head.

FWIW diagram of the shift lever and linkages Fig 9 here http://www.tohatsu-nissan-parts.com...log MFS2B-2.5B-3.5B (2011) - (00221052-4).pdf


If you are tempted to disconnect the upper and lower shift rods from each other, as suggested above, mark the position of the clamp on both first.

 

[Gunfleet]

Just make sure there isn’t some hidden gotcha in the set up. My Honda bf5 has to have the controls in the right place - if the throttle is turned too far it doesn’t allow the gear shift to move, engine running or not.

 

[temptress]

The problem is almost certainly that corrosion has frozen the shift lever where it passes through the housing. Common problem especially when there is no lubrication nipple fitted at this point. I

I doubt you will access the connection to the shift rods without removing the power head .....

..... Be very careful not to apply too much force or you will break the lever off ... then you will have to remove the power head.....
.....

Been there got the t-shirt. In the end it is not that difficult to remove the motor if you have a workbench. Not a job I'd like to attempt on the back of the boat. Find a nice dry place ashore, get the tools and remove the motor. That will take you longer than freeing up the gear shift leaver. But in the end it's the only option. also put some good waterproof grease on the shaft as you reassemble it.

 

[jwilson]

I suspect the gearshift stuck problem is the same as is very common on Tohatsu/Mercury/Mariner 3.5 two-strokes - as Vic says - lever shaft seized. If so no need to remove powerhead or disconnect linkage. Plusgas, time, gentle tapping on ends of shaft, gentle heat (there are rubber O-rings on the shaft), will probably free it off, then re-lubricate. Can't remember the exact procedure but I've had to do this on both my 3.5 two-strokes and I didn't undo linkage or remove powerhead.

On the 3.5 two-strokes the linkage is accessed via a small rubber boot on the leg - dead easy to undo, a swine to put back together. That job is usually part of changing water pump impeller on F/N gear models.

I doubt Tohatsu have redesigned the drive end much when switching from two-stroke to four-stroke.

 

[RichardS]

Vic is right that a good easing oil should shift it. You might be able to make a small reservoir of Plasticine or similar to form a well of easing oil which can be left for a few days to soak through. Some gentle tapping back and forth will then probably yield results.

Richard

 

[Bobc]

Very common. I've had it on mine. remove the gear lever, sand it back a bit until it fits again properly, smear with waterproof grease, re-assemble, done.

 

[Poey50]

Very common. I've had it on mine. remove the gear lever, sand it back a bit until it fits again properly, smear with waterproof grease, re-assemble, done.

+1 to this. No need to remove the powerhead or undo the linkage in the lower leg. The gear lever is your target. Sand down and relube as above.

 

[VicS]

+1 to this. No need to remove the powerhead or undo the linkage in the lower leg. The gear lever is your target. Sand down and relube as above.

You are presumably saying that in the engine in question , Tohatsu 3.5 4stroke, the connection between the shift lever and the upper shift rod is accessible without removing the engine powehead ?

 

[Poey50]

You are presumably saying that in the engine in question , Tohatsu 3.5 4stroke, the connection between the shift lever and the upper shift rod is accessible without removing the engine powehead ?

Apologies - mine is a Tohatsu 3.5 2-stroke (I hadn't read properly that this was a 4 stroke). So 4 stroke may well be different. 2 stroke you can get at the lever without removing the powerhead.

 

[jwilson]

You are presumably saying that in the engine in question , Tohatsu 3.5 4stroke, the connection between the shift lever and the upper shift rod is accessible without removing the engine powehead ?

It certainly is on the two-stroke versions: unlikely to be much different on the 4-strokes. A sort of lock screw on the short lever that goes into the drive leg to transmit up-down to the shift linkage releases and after a bit of gentle persuasion you can tap/pull out the shift lever, clean it and re-grease it and then reassemble. Disassembly/reassembly time 5 mins - except for the time taken to free off the seized bit, which might be a day or two wait while Plusgas/diesel/bit of heat works it's magic.

 

[VicS]

It certainly is on the two-stroke versions: unlikely to be much different on the 4-strokes. A sort of lock screw on the short lever that goes into the drive leg to transmit up-down to the shift linkage releases and after a bit of gentle persuasion you can tap/pull out the shift lever, clean it and re-grease it and then reassemble. Disassembly/reassembly time 5 mins - except for the time taken to free off the seized bit, which might be a day or two wait while Plusgas/diesel/bit of heat works it's magic.

That makes life easier

Just remove screw #12 and pull out the shift lever, watching out for the detent ball and spring, then

 

[Poey50]

That makes life easier

Just remove screw #12 and pull out the shift lever, watching out for the detent ball and spring, then

View attachment 68824

My lever (on the 2 stroke version) was so stuck it couldn't be loosened just from the lever end. The lever is breakable by hand. Perhaps if I had been more patient with the easing-oil that might have worked. Fortunately there is a small plate held by two bolts that, once removed, allows access to the far end of the lever. A screw driver can be used to lever the handle out and to free the linkage (#11 in the diagram).

 

[VicS]

My lever (on the 2 stroke version) was so stuck it couldn't be loosened just from the lever end. The lever is breakable by hand. Perhaps if I had been more patient with the easing-oil that might have worked. Fortunately there is a small plate held by two bolts that, once removed, allows access to the far end of the lever. A screw driver can be used to lever the handle out and to free the linkage (#11 in the diagram).

I think you will find that although there is a plate on the 2 stroke models:


There is not on the 4 stroke ones. See the diagram previously posted, which is of a 4 stroke.

This is why, although you can disconnect and remove the shift lever from the two strokes without removing the powerhead, I don't think you can from the 4 strokes.

If the OP's 4 stroke does in fact have the same plate as the 2 strokes then he is in luck should be able to get the shift lever out without removing the powerhead

 

[Poey50]

I think you will find that although there is a plate on the 2 stroke models:
View attachment 68826

There is not on the 4 stroke ones. See the diagram previously posted, which is of a 4 stroke.

This is why, although you can disconnect and remove the shift lever from the two strokes without removing the powerhead, I don't think you can from the 4 strokes

Ah OK. Another reason to be glad I got a 2 stroke!

 

[seadog30]

I think you will find that although there is a plate on the 2 stroke models:
View attachment 68826

There is not on the 4 stroke ones. See the diagram previously posted, which is of a 4 stroke.

This is why, although you can disconnect and remove the shift lever from the two strokes without removing the powerhead, I don't think you can from the 4 strokes.

If the OP's 4 stroke does in fact have the same plate as the 2 strokes then he is in luck should be able to get the shift lever out without removing the powerhead

Thanks VicS
I also have a 2 stroke 3.5 Toyhatsu, you are absolutely right the 2 stroke and 4 stroke are very different . I can not see any way to get at the 4 stroke gear leaver spindle. I have it soaking in release oil and will give it another week before I have a go with hot water or lifting the power head.

Regards Phil

 

[bluerm166]

I dealt with this issue last year on Tohatsu 3.5 4 stroke.Removing the tank and powerhead was not unduly difficult.
Methods of heat/introducing penetrating oil failed.Working the plastic lever is not effective because of its flexibility.
So I first drilled a small hole ( I think 3mm to later tap for a 4mm machine screw) between the two rubber O rings and introduced penetrating oil.After a couple of days of fiddling (having found the source/cost of renewal) I decided to write off the lever assembly.I was then able to file two flats on the shaft,having removed the plastic, and applied a spanner which allowed me to ease it free ,possibly to light tap it to and fro.The replacement assembly with the O rings, washer,gasket etc etc cost £52 delivered from Rib shop.I have the parts list.
I drilled a further hole on the outside to tap in another oiling/grease point for use with the powerhead on.The casing is just thick enough to tap for a small machine screw.The engine is now usable.The shaft appeared to be held by a fine white substance jammed in the area between the O rings.
I may have some photos of the exposed shaft area .

 

[Thomaspaul]

2009 mercury f3.5m. I realize this is an old thread but perhaps this will prove worthwhile to someone. I had a very stiff gear lever. There is no chance of doing anything without removing the power head on these guys. You have to remove a fair amount of stuff to do this but it is not particulary hard. Fuel tank, carb, coil, wires, etc etc. seven 10mm bolts from bottom. The power head will not just pull off as you are pulling off the splined shaft which can be stubborn and there is very little ability to lever up on the forward part of head. In hindsight it may be easier to drop lower unit pulling shaft out of head. Do water pump while you are fooling around with this thing. Mine was a bear to break loose and it was pristine at the the splines but it was on there good. It went back together quite easily with lots of lube on the shaft splines. The gear lever was corroded in but I was able with pb blaster and driving a large screwdriver in the gap between the housing and the lever, carefully Get it sliding out. I finally worked it out and found the shaft, o rings, spring and ball all salvagable with a good cleaning and heavy lube. All parts went back in and now functions with one finger. I considered adding a grease port but now that I know it is not a bad job, I’ll just keep an eye on it. Any increasing stiffness will be tended to sooner rather than later At a convenient time. It is pretty much a one banana job that sounds worse than it actually is. Parts are available but I didn’t want to wait and existing parts were not bad enough to go whole hog.

 

[Adios]

Was out on the river with my 2006 2 stroke Tohatsu 3.5 yesterday and the gear lever refused to go into forward temporarily. I'd noticed since I got it it wasn't going into gear with a positive click of any kind but it did work ok so I left it. It just needs lubing occasionally by taking gear lever out. I replaced the probably 17 year old o'rings which for reference are 10x2 metric. It now has a reassuring click at the lever end as it goes into gear. Worth doing in advance if it doesn't feel very positive and I guess worth doing on the 4 strokes if the head is off for any other reason. Seems a step backwards to make something that needs servicing so inaccessible.