BarryH
Well-Known Member
I've asked the experts and not really got a straight answer. So does anyone know how I get a good oiled finish to walnut. What is the prep in the way of grain fillers? What oil? How do I apply it? How many coats?
Oiled walnut.
- Thread starter BarryH
- Start date
plk987
Member
It depends what you are trying to achieve. You only need to use grain fillers if you are looking for a high gloss or very fine surface finish. They fill the very fine pores that finishes like shellac cannot cover as they are too thin.
Oiled finishes...good sanding prep, tack rag and then apply an off the shelf oil mix such as Danish Oil, or tung oil. the first layer can be thinned slightly but I've never found it necessary. You will need at least 3 coats, with a couple of days drying in between. You can apply them with rags or very fine steel wool if you want to get a slight shine. You may need to go for up to 6 - 8 applications for a really deep finish.
Only thing to be aware of is that an oil finish will not be waterproof unless regularly maintained ( it's not fully waterproof anyway) but with regular re-applications e.g. twice a year it will last a good while.
Oiled finishes...good sanding prep, tack rag and then apply an off the shelf oil mix such as Danish Oil, or tung oil. the first layer can be thinned slightly but I've never found it necessary. You will need at least 3 coats, with a couple of days drying in between. You can apply them with rags or very fine steel wool if you want to get a slight shine. You may need to go for up to 6 - 8 applications for a really deep finish.
Only thing to be aware of is that an oil finish will not be waterproof unless regularly maintained ( it's not fully waterproof anyway) but with regular re-applications e.g. twice a year it will last a good while.
BarryH
Well-Known Member
Danish Oil? I've been told by the majority to use purified Linseed oil. The finish is for a gun stock. The wood itself has lovely figuring and a pleasing grain. I'm after a good deep finish. The woodwork is off the action in readiness. I've been advised not to use glass paper but fine ali oxide or wet and dry for the prep.
Trevethan
Well-Known Member
Go to local gunmakers (if any left) gunstocks are often walnut and they should be able to advise.
Cheers,
Nick
Cheers,
Nick
BarryH
Well-Known Member
Gun makers rarely divulge their secrets. Why would they? They'd be shooting themselves in the foot! Most guns dealers are only interested in shifting boxes. Much like any other retailer.
Davy_S
Well-Known Member
Its a while back now, but i oiled two walnut thumbhole stocks. I used wet and dry, when smooth i put white spirits on (to bring any grain out) rubbed again with wire wool till perfectly smooth,finished off with Danish oil. The stocks need a couple of days to soak up the oil,then more oil on, Repeat this about five times until the stock can be highly polished. It worked for me, producing a very durable and highly pleasing finish.
dulcibella
Well-Known Member
Bad idea - makes them slip out of the nutcrackers.
Spuddy
Well-Known Member
Probably advice was for boiled linseed rather than raw. Does darken the wood more over time and stays stickier for a bit attracting dust. I'd use Danish or tung oil. Would bits of wire wool lodge in the pores and rust ?
Aluminium oxide or wet /dry are better than glass paper.
By the way ladies rejuvenating cream advertised on the box claims that it uses Aluminium oxide.
Errm... vague recollection of burnishing of gun stocks being talked of once - rubbing it with the back of a spoon I suppose like a squaddy's boots. supposed to close up the surface but I'd test it and do it gently.
regards...spuddy
Aluminium oxide or wet /dry are better than glass paper.
By the way ladies rejuvenating cream advertised on the box claims that it uses Aluminium oxide.
Errm... vague recollection of burnishing of gun stocks being talked of once - rubbing it with the back of a spoon I suppose like a squaddy's boots. supposed to close up the surface but I'd test it and do it gently.
regards...spuddy
stephenh
Well-Known Member
From my under keepering days ( rather a long time ago) the gun was stripped down completely - all metal work taken off the stock. The old oil was stripped off with turps ( especially any gun oil) and 000 grade wire wool. As Spuddy says the surface was burnished with the back of a spoon, being very careful to keep the edges. Raw linseed oil diluted (20%?) and heated - not too hot and be careful!!!! - is then applied and the stock left for 10 mins. Then all surplus oil is removed with a soft rag. 24hrs later another coat ( undiluted ) of hot raw linseed oil is put on and likewise excess removed after 10mins and allowed 24hrs to dry.
You can now move onto boiled linseed oil using the same process and put as many coats on as you wish.
The secret is in the heat, the polishing off and the drying time.
A firm called Liberon make a 'Finishing Oil'which only takes 5 hrs between coats which I have used on hardwood with very good effect - it is a Tung oil derivitive.
It is a long process and a labour of love.......Good luck
Interestingly , in France they use hot olive oil in the same manner to treat bare pine kitchen tables...
We didn't use any grain fillers - just the oil.
You can now move onto boiled linseed oil using the same process and put as many coats on as you wish.
The secret is in the heat, the polishing off and the drying time.
A firm called Liberon make a 'Finishing Oil'which only takes 5 hrs between coats which I have used on hardwood with very good effect - it is a Tung oil derivitive.
It is a long process and a labour of love.......Good luck
Interestingly , in France they use hot olive oil in the same manner to treat bare pine kitchen tables...
We didn't use any grain fillers - just the oil.
TrueBlue
Well-Known Member
Just a spoiler, but I've always found linseed oil leaves a sticky finish. Danish Oil, IME works better and being a more recent "discovery" over here, than linseed may be a better solution. It penetrates the timber (to some extent) and then dries in time. If you catch it before it dries fully you can buff it up to get a nice sheen, but it takes lorra, lorra coats - like anything that's worthwhile.
My horse used to love linseed in his feed; lubricated his lower.... But that's another story.
Might I ask why you want a shine on your stocks? Surely it would frighten the birds away. Bit like a Land Rover with gloss paint.
My horse used to love linseed in his feed; lubricated his lower.... But that's another story.
Might I ask why you want a shine on your stocks? Surely it would frighten the birds away. Bit like a Land Rover with gloss paint.
