Nylocs vs spring washers.

F

fredrussell

Well-Known Member
Joined
24 Mar 2015
Messages
4,339
Visit site
I’ve decided I’m going to stop using nyloc nuts and use spring washers instead.
Why? Because as a (mostly) single-hander, including doing the maintenance, I’m tired of coming up with ways to keep the bolt from turning (often on the outside of hull) whilst I am undoing the nyloc nut (often on the inside of the hull). It’s a damn nuisance.
 
Nyloc and spring washers Lock in very different ways.

The nyloc lock the nut against the bolt whereas the spring washer lock against the material hole that the bolt passes through.

If I an bolting something together through a hole I cannot reach the opposite side, I tend to use a tapped plate on the inside that has at least 2 holes so the tapped plate is held in place and prevent the plate (nut) will not turn.

The alternate is to use a thin lock nut first and tighten that up then fit a nyloc nut on top of the thin lock nut.
 
If the fastener is critical, say a sheet cleat compared to a coat hook, could be exposed to vibrations, stick with the Nyloc or anything better than a spring washer. For critical applications where vibration is a risk, spring washers are a poor solution.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S04
Cheers for replies, unwelcome as the consensus is!
Just out of interest, how many on here treat nylocs as a single use item like wot you’re supposed to? In my quick survey, where I didn’t ask anyone other than myself, 100% of respondents re-used nylocs, which is pretty shocking.
 
fredrussell said:
I’ve decided I’m going to stop using nyloc nuts and use spring washers instead.
Why? Because as a (mostly) single-hander, including doing the maintenance, I’m tired of coming up with ways to keep the bolt from turning (often on the outside of hull) whilst I am undoing the nyloc nut (often on the inside of the hull). It’s a damn nuisance.
Click to expand...
It was proven in the automotive industry over 30 years ago that spring washers were of no use.
 
fredrussell said:
I’ve decided I’m going to stop using nyloc nuts and use spring washers instead.
Why? Because as a (mostly) single-hander, including doing the maintenance, I’m tired of coming up with ways to keep the bolt from turning (often on the outside of hull) whilst I am undoing the nyloc nut (often on the inside of the hull). It’s a damn nuisance.
Click to expand...
Why don't you try arsehole washers or commonly known as DD Washers. Absolutely fantastic as soon as the nut has taken the slack it tightens on itself....
 
I saw exactly this comparison on YouTube the other day. Nyloc won by a mile.
 
Last edited:
fredrussell said:
Cheers for replies, unwelcome as the consensus is!
Just out of interest, how many on here treat nylocs as a single use item like wot you’re supposed to? In my quick survey, where I didn’t ask anyone other than myself, 100% of respondents re-used nylocs, which is pretty shocking.
Click to expand...
I do reuse most of the time unless the item is critical, but after 3 or 4 uses you can feel that the nylon lock bit isn't really working. I still keep the nuts though as they still work.
 
I watched a pretty serious engineering type video where they used a machine to vibrate all the different types of locking nut/washers including two nuts locked together and none of them did particularly well and were undoing within seconds.
Systems similar to "gustywinds" nord- lock washers put up much more resistance but are not cheap.
 
I have the thought most nyloc nuts are re-used - primarily because, at the time, there is not a new one to hand and/or because the individual does not realise they are single use. In critical applications - securing a prop on the shaft - I prefer Loctite, blue if its regularly disassembled, red if it is seldom dissassembled. The numbers (of the Loctite) don't matter - 'blue' or 'red' is good enough. Loctite 'works' under water - so its a useful product. If you are generous with red it can mean the only way to disengage is with heat - which does impose a restriction or make the assembly really secure (better than the worn Nyloc).

I once had to re-assemble a prop under water. We took all the adhesives and sealants we had with us and used each of them on M10 bolts and then left them overnight in a bucket of seawater. Loctite was the only product that gave a reliable seal overnight. Later I did the same test but with a bit more rigour and the strength after sealing under water was not degraded by the unusual environment.

If you do need to use Loctite under water it is a 2 person task. One in the water the other preparing the bolt with the Loctite, be generous, and handing the coated bolt to the individual in the water. You need to have all the bits and pieces to hand bolts, nuts, spanners, Alan keys etc. It is all quite possible but needs preparation, care and patience. It takes time and a wetsuit makes it all a bit more bearable.

Adhesives Test - Practical Sailor

Jonathan
 
Last edited:
Rappey said:
I watched a pretty serious engineering type video where they used a machine to vibrate all the different types of locking nut/washers including two nuts locked together and none of them did particularly well and were undoing within seconds.
Systems similar to "gustywinds" nord- lock washers put up much more resistance but are not cheap.
Click to expand...
 
I understand OP difficulty with nuts onb one side bolt head on the other needing 2 people. My answer is to always tap the GRP and screw the bolt in tight. Then if needed one can easily tighten up a nut on the inside nyloc or plain. Of course no help if the hole is already drilled to slide bolt in. Could try epoxy in hole then tap thread. ol'will
 
Those nordlock items would seem to be the answer to my problem. Very impressive.

I suppose one answer would be to use a standard nut and washer first, and then if threads allow add a nyloc. That way the nyloc can be installed/removed without the bolt spinning. Trouble is, length of bolt will often only accommodate one nut.
 
Last edited:
fredrussell said:
I suppose one answer would be to use a standard nut and washer first, and then if threads allow add a nyloc to keep it all in place. That way the nyloc can be installed/removed without the bolt spinning. Trouble is, length of bolt will often only accommodate one nut.
Click to expand...


rogerthebodger said:
The alternate is to use a thin lock nut first and tighten that up then fit a nyloc nut on top of the thin lock nut.
Click to expand...

As recommended in post #2
 
RunAgroundHard said:
If the fastener is critical, say a sheet cleat compared to a coat hook, could be exposed to vibrations, stick with the Nyloc or anything better than a spring washer. For critical applications where vibration is a risk, spring washers are a poor solution.
Click to expand...
My whacker plate is held together with them, and they always come loose. Think I will replace them with nylocs and see how it goes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top