Fr J Hackett
Well-Known Member
From what I remember of sealant remover it is more applicable to surface use and cleaning rather than penetration.
Nuts are off........Seacock Woes!!!!
- Thread starter thesaintlyone
- Start date
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Ye Gods! That's highly dangerous. You must have some other bits of metal lying around more suitable for hitting with a hammer, than the sharp end of a chisel. Maybe you're just frustrated by this thread.
Why dangerous? Far better option than a screwdriver, which might go right through the valve. It's a pretty blunt old chisel, the head is a good fit for the inside of the cone and my options are quite limited in Greece.
NormanS
Well-Known Member
I would have thought that from your engineering knowledge, you would know just how potentially dangerous it is to strike the hardened edge of a chisel with the hardened face of a hammer. First week of apprenticeship stuff. It's seriously disappointing that you suggest doing this, particularly to someone whose practical experience is obviously limited.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I disagree. The chisel tip is hardened and tempered, little different from striking any engineering steel and just about exactly the same hardness as a centre punch.
Fr J Hackett
Well-Known Member
But not the flat end of a centre punch. Ideally the drift should be of a softer metal than a hardened cold chisel
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
How is removing the cone going to solve the initial problem of getting the coach bolts out?
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Couldn't he just hit those with a hammer?
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I think you are making some incorrect assumptions. I'm pretty sure a centre punch is through-hardened to around 700 Vickers. The hardest part of a cold chisel is the head. I remember carrying out a hardness survey on one years ago after a safety related incident. The cutting tip is tempered to around 650 - 700 Vickers. The head end work hardens considerably and the 'mushroom' reaches 1200 Vickers, when it becomes brittle and flies off. This should be ground back to avoid accidents.
It might be nice to have a soft metal drift on board but there is a limit to what I can carry, especially things that might be needed once every couple of years. There is no hazard whatsoever in striking something of 700 Vickers with a hammer.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
See posts 125 and 131.
thesaintlyone
Well-Known Member
Both removing the bolts & getting the cone out still need to be done so all suggestions are welcome the bolts are probably the most complicated. tho so everyone is right
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
15 pages to remove four bronze bolts, is this a forum record ?
VicS
Well-Known Member
15 pages to remove four bronze bolts, is this a forum record ?
15 pages ? I only see 4 and your post #151is the first one on p4.
Malabarista
Well-Known Member
I was joking. Obviously unfunnily. I doubt it will catch fire. Honest.
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Fr J Hackett
Well-Known Member
The body will still be held firm as the bolts are still in!
Fr J Hackett
Well-Known Member
It just goes against the grain to hit the cutting edge of a chisel with a hammer.
I was speaking from a point of having access to a reasonable collection of tools and transporting them to the boat, accepted in your position that is limited by location and the OPs by simple lack of said tools and expertise. In my case the boat was moored in the UK and my home workshop was shall we say extensive.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
Your settings must differ from mine (the default), i only have 10 posts per page.
NormanS
Well-Known Member
+1
I think it's totally ridiculous to hit the cutting edge of a chisel, or any other tool, with a hammer. Since knocking out the cone with any kind of punch would only be done with the boat out of the water, one would not be restricted to use only the kit of tools carried aboard. I hope no-one is persuaded to do such a thing, which could lead to serious injury.
Fr J Hackett
Well-Known Member
It's getting late surely we should have had an update by now, one has to assume the worst and it's still stuck and the OP has hung himself from the spreaders
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
It's getting late surely we should have had an update by now, one has to assume the worst and it's still stuck and the OP has hung himself from the spreaders
I doubt he's done that, he hasn't started a thread "What's the best way to hang myself from the spreaders"
thesaintlyone
Well-Known Member
Well I dod get to the boat today and despite contortioning myselg in every position to get the best angle of attack and trying all of the suggestions here I have not got it to budge.
I guess the reallity is simply 40 years of seslant through hill, backing plate and bolts was never meant to come undonr except by salt water had I left it as sods law dictates
I finally decided to start cutting away the wooden backing plate below the seacock and cut the bolts off below & above the seacock which I pretty much got done before having to call it quits for the day. Will cut away as much of the wooden plate as I can and then try snd use brute force somehow to free up the seacock from the hull.
I know that some of you would of done it differently but there comes a point!!!!
Now all I have to do is figure out a way to apply force in the right direction to break what sealant is left.
Regards
I guess the reallity is simply 40 years of seslant through hill, backing plate and bolts was never meant to come undonr except by salt water had I left it as sods law dictates
I finally decided to start cutting away the wooden backing plate below the seacock and cut the bolts off below & above the seacock which I pretty much got done before having to call it quits for the day. Will cut away as much of the wooden plate as I can and then try snd use brute force somehow to free up the seacock from the hull.
I know that some of you would of done it differently but there comes a point!!!!
Now all I have to do is figure out a way to apply force in the right direction to break what sealant is left.
Regards
