Nuts are off........Seacock Woes!!!!

ghostlymoron said:
I'd use a heavy lump hammer and use a socket set extension bar or steel rod as a drift. Spend more time on hammering and less on asking advice. Don't try to hammer them from outside, as has been said, they are coach bolts with a square on the shank so won't go.
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There is very little room above the valve and due to the design of the valve itself no room to drop the hammer squarely onto the bolt. So just knocking them through is well add to that the 40 year old sealant that coats everything. Interior Backing plate, Bolts etc
 
petehb said:
Or one that appeared recently of suggesting that a screwdriver be inserted between a nut flat and loose fitting spanner jaw:eek: when there is no need to make such a bodge as the correct spanner can be bought to fabricated.
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:)

If I counted up the value of the small coins I've wedged between the jaws of a spanner over the years I would be a rich man. :o

Although I must admit that this was mainly during the years when UK cars (used cars at least!) were in transition from imperial to metric fittings. :ambivalence:

Richard
 
RichardS said:
:)

If I counted up the value of the small coins I've wedged between the jaws of a spanner over the years I would be a rich man. :o

Although I must admit that this was mainly during the years when UK cars (used cars at least!) were in transition from imperial to metric fittings. :ambivalence:

Richard
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You should be ashamed of yourself:eek::p
 
I usually want the job done on one visit and can't wait for tools to be bought or fabricated. When dismantling, any method will do - I reassemble with care so don't consider myself a bodger.
petehb said:
I accept in extremis that improvisation is required and necessary, I use the term bodge in the sense of misuse of tools and doing a less than adequate job. My pet hate for example of adjustable spanners that round off nuts so the next time you need to undo them or when the AS has failed you can't. Or one that appeared recently of suggesting that a screwdriver be inserted between a nut flat and loose fitting spanner jaw:eek: when there is no need to make such a bodge as the correct spanner can be bought to fabricated.
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Actually although this thread has gone on for a while, I quite like your threads. good down to earth subjects, just what the Practical boat owner forum should be full off. Now just hit it with a club hammer.

Steveeasy
 
steveeasy said:
Actually although this thread has gone on for a while, I quite like your threads. good down to earth subjects, just what the Practical boat owner forum should be full off. Now just hit it with a club hammer.

Steveeasy
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You are not familiar with the restricted access to the heads outlet seacock in a Longbow are you ?
 
thesaintlyone said:
Nope the Valve is still in place as there is sealant on the bolts and on the inside backing plate which has been there 40 odd years so has set rather well.
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Suggest you remove the valve first, and backing plate second.
Simple way, already stated by many, is to put a block of wood on the outlet spigot on the outside and hit hard with a hammer.
 
bignick said:
Suggest you remove the valve first, and backing plate second.
Simple way, already stated by many, is to put a block of wood on the outlet spigot on the outside and hit hard with a hammer.
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The way this car crash is going that is going to punch a hole in the crown of the cone.

If it's so hard to shift the bolts there has got to be some argument to say leave them as is and do what you should have done to start with, if you had known what you were doing. But now the outside backing plate has gone, there will always be the doubt that it's going to fail either when you aren't there or when it's most inconvenient.
 
ghostlymoron said:
If it takes a week (the time this threads been running) to remove a skin fitting, it's gonna be years till the Longbow hits the water.
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This Skin fitting is proving tough for someone like me who maybe is a little hesitant to twack or apply a force to certain parts of my boat with the nessacary force for fear of smacking a great big hole through it admittedly.Tho i expect someone with much more experience with such things would come along with the right tools and get it done in a day at most.

However I have confidence that the boat will be much easier than previously presumed this is mainly because in general most things appear to be in better condition than expected. This for example is the only seacock that has been difficult and thats cause the plate was a concern. Beyond that it is generally a case of adding things that I have already mentioned/enquired about in other threads to modernize the boat such as electrics etc

My priority with this seacock is getting those bolts out which were applied almost 40 years ago and obvioysly that sealant is well sealed.

Of course I have not spent all week struggling with it been at work and was only at the boat monday and will try again saturday.
 
aquaplane said:
The way this car crash is going that is going to punch a hole in the crown of the cone.

If it's so hard to shift the bolts there has got to be some argument to say leave them as is and do what you should have done to start with, if you had known what you were doing. But now the outside backing plate has gone, there will always be the doubt that it's going to fail either when you aren't there or when it's most inconvenient.
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Car Crash!!!! WTF I have come across one seacock out of the 7+ on board which is stuck. All the others have been easy to sort or service
I know you have stated that I should of just left it with a broken plate but to me and some others who also shared their oppinions that was a poor idea which could lead to failure and I am inclined to agree and get it sorted so that I know it is done and I can maintain it correctly in the future.
Boats seacocks are not designed to be maitenance free and regular turning is reccomended for all seacocks regardless of make and I highly expect that when westerly were considering which systems to design into their vessels they did not envisage someone 40 years later having to remove one that hasnt been turned for 10+ years

Thankyou for the advice & suggestions and I will continue to take them on board and see what works evenyually which I am sure it will
 
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