macd
Well-Known Member
At least someone else understood my point!
Your point wasn't complicated. In fact it was fairly banal. I suspect most of those still working and with family committments can probably do the arithmetic.
At least someone else understood my point!


So yesterday I went up to the boat and attempted some of your suggestions. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of space to allow the application, of said hammer on the mounting bolts.
I did however clean off the bolt heads on the outside and cut slots to allow the insertion of a screwdriver but still no luck getting them to turn move etc
View attachment 60610
As you can guess I now dont intend on salvaging the bolts as long as I can get them out.
I did however start work on the gate valves by disconecting the pipework and using an angle grinder (Guild £17 Argos) to cut away the main part allowing easier access to the retaining nut. Unfortunately did not have anything suitable at the time to remove said nut.
View attachment 60611
Which leads me to another question the gate valves appear to have little prongs externally that presumably allow the insertion of a tool to remove them. What is this tool???
Rather than cutting a slot for a screw driver grind or file some flats on the bronze bolts and turn them with a spanner, you will get far greater leverage to break the adhesion.
You need a good box spanner to remove the nut on what remains of the gate valve, others of a less fastidious nature than me would make do with a large adjustable spanner![]()
So yesterday
Which leads me to another question [COLOR="#FF0000]"the gate valves appear to have little prongs externally[/COLOR] that presumably allow the insertion of a tool to remove them. What is this tool???
Yes sorry Lugs was what I was trying to get at, Are thru hull step wrenches expensive??
Boat is currently at Mariners Farm In Gillingham Kent
Don't bother, find a bit of flat bar (I have an old tyre lever - remember them?) which was perfect. Big adjustable or moles to hold it... Job jobbed!
Gate vales have no place on a boat, discuss.
Blakes valves are worth keeping.
If they are beyond redemption ball valves are the next best thing.
Gate valves are ok for stopcocks IMHO.
So yesterday I went up to the boat and attempted some of your suggestions. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of space to allow the application, of said hammer on the mounting bolts.
I did however clean off the bolt heads on the outside and cut slots to allow the insertion of a screwdriver but still no luck getting them to turn move etc
View attachment 60610
As you can guess I now dont intend on salvaging the bolts as long as I can get them out.
Exactly. This was pointed out in post #2 and others.You will not turn the bolts they have a square shank behind the head to prevent them turning. You will have to drift them out.
You will not turn the bolts they have a square shank behind the head to prevent them turning. You will have to drift them out.
You will not turn the bolts they have a square shank behind the head to prevent them turning. You will have to drift them out.
That is unlike the new Blake seacock I bought and fitted a few years ago.The square head is located in the external plate which has been removed they do not penetrate the hull.
That is unlike the new Blake seacock I bought and fitted a few years ago.
The squares were longer than the thickness of the strainer plate and, rather than have them crunching into the gel coat, I reduced their length using my lathe.