Nuts are off........Seacock Woes!!!!

So yesterday I went up to the boat and attempted some of your suggestions. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of space to allow the application, of said hammer on the mounting bolts.
I did however clean off the bolt heads on the outside and cut slots to allow the insertion of a screwdriver but still no luck getting them to turn move etc

30555356585_1f0dd7db3e_k.jpg

As you can guess I now dont intend on salvaging the bolts as long as I can get them out.

I did however start work on the gate valves by disconecting the pipework and using an angle grinder (Guild £17 Argos) to cut away the main part allowing easier access to the retaining nut. Unfortunately did not have anything suitable at the time to remove said nut.

30555355135_9c005bad08_k.jpg

Which leads me to another question the gate valves appear to have little prongs externally that presumably allow the insertion of a tool to remove them. What is this tool???
 
So yesterday I went up to the boat and attempted some of your suggestions. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of space to allow the application, of said hammer on the mounting bolts.
I did however clean off the bolt heads on the outside and cut slots to allow the insertion of a screwdriver but still no luck getting them to turn move etc

View attachment 60610

As you can guess I now dont intend on salvaging the bolts as long as I can get them out.

I did however start work on the gate valves by disconecting the pipework and using an angle grinder (Guild £17 Argos) to cut away the main part allowing easier access to the retaining nut. Unfortunately did not have anything suitable at the time to remove said nut.

View attachment 60611

Which leads me to another question the gate valves appear to have little prongs externally that presumably allow the insertion of a tool to remove them. What is this tool???

Rather than cutting a slot for a screw driver grind or file some flats on the bronze bolts and turn them with a spanner, you will get far greater leverage to break the adhesion.

You need a good box spanner to remove the nut on what remains of the gate valve, others of a less fastidious nature than me would make do with a large adjustable spanner:eek:
 
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Rather than cutting a slot for a screw driver grind or file some flats on the bronze bolts and turn them with a spanner, you will get far greater leverage to break the adhesion.

You need a good box spanner to remove the nut on what remains of the gate valve, others of a less fastidious nature than me would make do with a large adjustable spanner:eek:

Or you can be brutal and find the heads off altogether and drive them through from the outside with a suitable drift. Lots more room to swing a hammer on the outside.

May we ask what part of the country the boat is?
 
So yesterday

Which leads me to another question [COLOR="#FF0000]"the gate valves appear to have little prongs externally[/COLOR] that presumably allow the insertion of a tool to remove them. What is this tool???

Dont under understand. ..........................You can put a spanner on the outside of the gate valves

Do you mean little lugs internally in the skin fitting ? .... If so ITYWF that the tool is a " Thru hull step wrench" but easy enough to improvise with a bit of flat bar or something.
 
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Yes sorry Lugs was what I was trying to get at, Are thru hull step wrenches expensive??

Boat is currently at Mariners Farm In Gillingham Kent
 
Gate vales have no place on a boat, discuss.

Blakes valves are worth keeping.

If they are beyond redemption ball valves are the next best thing.

Gate valves are ok for stopcocks IMHO.
 
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Earlier this year I spent hours trying to remove a seacock, I think I tried ever method listed in this thread, but couldn't get them to budge until I applied heat via a blow torch, and then the almost dropped out. The blow torch was a last resort, but in hindsight, I wish I had tried it hours earlier.
 
When I swapped my gate valve seacocks to ball valves I unscrewed the valve without disturbing the skin fitting so that I could reuse it. It was an easier, cheaper and lower effort way to do it. I did have to invest in two large spanners which only just fitted in the Centaur locker where the valves were but I did the job in a hour or so.
 
So yesterday I went up to the boat and attempted some of your suggestions. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of space to allow the application, of said hammer on the mounting bolts.
I did however clean off the bolt heads on the outside and cut slots to allow the insertion of a screwdriver but still no luck getting them to turn move etc

View attachment 60610

As you can guess I now dont intend on salvaging the bolts as long as I can get them out.

You will not turn the bolts they have a square shank behind the head to prevent them turning. You will have to drift them out.
 
You will not turn the bolts they have a square shank behind the head to prevent them turning. You will have to drift them out.

Part of the shank has been exposed by removing the plate though.

Looks to me like there is enough sticking out to get some mole grips on the head, they should unscrew, GRP will not hold those little square bits, that's partly why the plate was there.

Heave on them with mole grips and they will either come undone or sheer off. If they sheer off just drift them out or even drill them, they are only bronze.

What a lot of fuss and a lot of posts for four sticky bolts !!
 
The square head is located in the external plate which has been removed they do not penetrate the hull.
That is unlike the new Blake seacock I bought and fitted a few years ago.

The squares were longer than the thickness of the strainer plate and, rather than have them crunching into the gel coat, I reduced their length using my lathe.
 
That is unlike the new Blake seacock I bought and fitted a few years ago.

The squares were longer than the thickness of the strainer plate and, rather than have them crunching into the gel coat, I reduced their length using my lathe.

The OPs Blake is clearly an old one and my experience of removing a 20 year old Blakes seacock was that the shanks on the retaining bolts were matched to the outer retaining plate.
 

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