Next Question - Leaky windows

[Refueler]

I find it interesting to see Brand Labels quoted ... all good - no complaint here ...

But the interesting point is - many are actually same product / formulation but with different Brand name / designation.

My go-to when Tolleys didn't work - was to local Caravan Dealers / Workshop ..... they have same problem and a world of products to solve it. A short chat with those guys and solutions often found at far more economic costs ..

 

[ghostlymoron]

CT1 is your friend for this job. I did my front windows 2yrs ago all good so far.

IMHO CT1 is too much of an adhesive and will be difficult/impossible to dismantle next time they need doing Arbomast is a pure sealant and pu40 is between the two but cheaper. You don't need to stick the glass in, the aluminium frame holds it in place.

 

[coopec]

All my windows open inwards and some of them leak but only slightly. I've just spent $1100 on the last 3 mattresses and I don't relish the idea of trying to sleep with a window leak dripping on to the blankets. (From reading I find it it a fairly common problem)

I wondered how I might overcome the problem and considered a wedge shape plank glued to the cabin sides just above the windows. I thought that would help as all the water running off the cabin roof would hit the deck and bypass the windows.


Then I saw rain diverters which seem like a good idea as I would be able to keep the windows open even when it is raining. But they cost about $A70 each and I need X12 of them.




I have just today finished making up twelve of them using a fiberglass frames and sheets of perspex (out of a factory recycle bin) The cost has been minimal but it has taken time to make them up. (As we've had record rains it has been a good project for the workshop)

When I get one of them assembled tomorrow I'll photograph it and upload the shot. (Right now they are in the shed while the paint is drying overnight)

 

[LadyInBed]

I replaced my window seals about four years ago using a semi setting sealant from screwfix. I can't see the one that I used on their site but this one looks close No Nonsense All-Weather Sealant Clear 310ml
This one also looks good Static Caravan Spares Static Caravan Parts-Butylene sealant
A 'Butylene sealant is a common product used throughout the caravan industry , to seal all external joints and roof penetrations like skylights and flu's, on aluminium. The product has no trackability to water and is a non-setting bedding sealant so forms a long life seal.'

 

[Buck Turgidson]

I used silka SG-20. and lots and lots of masking tape.

 

[coopec]

I suppose if your windows don't open then there is no need for "rain diverters" or "rain shields" but all mine open. I think I've solved the problem of leaky windows.

But are ropes going to snag on them because of the shape? Is that going to be a problem?

 

[Neeves]

Coopec,

I had not realised you had returned, a belated welcome back. I'm hoping Roger will also return.

We added portlights to the bottom of our bridge deck, for ventilation. We have a little vertical step which neatly takes a standard 'oval' portlight. If it rains the water runs down the sloping bridge and runs as a constant stream over the little step. If you are in deep sleep and its light rain you do not notice until the doona and mattress are soggy

We looked at the plastic covers, which would do the job, and like you decided they were a bit pricey and obtrusive.

We simply made canvas covers that slide into plastic 'sailtrack' and are then tensions with thin bungy to the trampoline. They are no use at sea but we religiously close the port lights on passage - as when you take big seas over the bows you can imagine the result - rain is one thing seawater is there for ever. I'd show pictures - but never crossed my mind it would be interesting

Jonathan

 

[coopec]

Hi Jonathan

I've just come back. I wonder how long for this time?
I have a bit of trouble with the Dorade vents because they leak a bit. (I'll have to turn the hose on and see if I can trace them)

I was a bit concerned about going on deck in foul weather to put covers on the Dorade vents so I put covers on the inside of the yacht. Here are a couple of photos of what I have done.

I've got a bit more to do on the aft cabin then I'll start tidying up the wiring (Anchor winch controls to the helm- that sort of thing)

 

[Graeme Smart]

Hi Ct1 is the best ms polymer but is a great adhesive and you may have to pan the glass in to remove it ,you should use low modular silicone like Silarub 2 it doesn’t have acid in it so is odourless and won’t shrink and if you want to remove it you can.

 

[geem]

I can see how much of a faff redoing the windows properly is going to be so, since I don't think there's significant leakage twixt frame and cabin, I don't want to disturb that joint until I absolutely must. My problem is that the sealing strips mentioned by CO8 have shrunk - inch gaps on some windows and soggy cushions underneath, so it's them that I hope to replace with a glazing seal, Captain Tolley may work for tiny seepage, but not the big gaps with free-flow dripping that I've got.

The opening (hopper) windows are another matter - they will require some serious thought, but the worst leaks aren't from them.

Thanks all!

We installed our new Perspex frameless windows in 2013. They sit in a rebate. After many thousands of sea miles we had no leaks. We used black Geocel Works. It's less adhesive and more sealant than similar Sika products. We have recently removed them all to allow a full respray. There was no problem removing them.
We have just reinstalled them using the Geocel Works again.

 

[Tranona]

I suppose if your windows don't open then there is no need for "rain diverters" or "rain shields" but all mine open. I think I've solved the problem of leaky windows.

But are ropes going to snag on them because of the shape? Is that going to be a problem?

View attachment 120653View attachment 120654

While this is all very interesting for some, maybe, it is of absolutely no help to the OP who has a boat like this google.com/search?q=Catalac+8m&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=dVGxsTXjrRtdGM%252CZZq-35cHgYfMxM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSPUJhi7JxE3jNhsLXX6UxeS4TKkQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi6r-3i17LyAhUGCuwKHe2aDe8Q9QF6BAgaEAE&biw=1920&bih=969#imgrc=dVGxsTXjrRtdGM

He described how his windows were constructed in his first post. Always worth reading the question before responding (as several people have done already) as you might then be able to add something useful.

 

[coopec]

While this is all very interesting for some, maybe, it is of absolutely no help to the OP who has a boat like this google.com/search?q=Catalac+8m&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=dVGxsTXjrRtdGM%252CZZq-35cHgYfMxM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSPUJhi7JxE3jNhsLXX6UxeS4TKkQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi6r-3i17LyAhUGCuwKHe2aDe8Q9QF6BAgaEAE&biw=1920&bih=969#imgrc=dVGxsTXjrRtdGM

He described how his windows were constructed in his first post. Always worth reading the question before responding (as several people have done already) as you might then be able to add something useful.

Thank you for your expert advice.?
If the windows leak and there is a way of diverting the flow of water from flowing over the window I think that is relevant. Hope your day improves!

 

[Deleted member 36384]

IMHO CT1 is too much of an adhesive and will be difficult/impossible to dismantle next time they need doing Arbomast is a pure sealant and pu40 is between the two but cheaper. You don't need to stick the glass in, the aluminium frame holds it in place.

Your point is relevant if sticking the frame to the hull. However, I thought the OP glass is inside a U shaped channel and the seals that hold the glass in place have failed, not the frame's flange to hull seal. If the glass sits inside the frames, then a strong adhesive sealant that is also UV resistant is absolutely essential, if the original rubber or elastomer seals to reinstate as per OEM are unobtainable.

In my direct experience with U channels when the seals go, the channels themselves corrode. Owners then blast the U frame flange with every sealant known to man but fail to cure the actual leak path that is from the glass to the inside of the U channel then through a failed seal or frame assembly screw, or in my case, lots of small corrosion holes.

My glass has been secured inside the original U frames with a high strength adhesive sealant completely eliminating any leak paths. The U channel flange was sealed to the hull with 3mm Scapa bedding tape. If I ever had to fix a window inside the frame or remove the glass from the frame, then it would be a pain as the sealant would have to be sliced away and then mechanically removed from the frame. It may be easier to make a new frame, companies exist to bend aluminium extruded parts.

Its a good point you make, but I believe my refurbished framed windows have better resilience and integrity than the original design and manufacturing process. I expect they will now outlive me.

 

[Neeves]

Our canvas covers are equally not relevant, though that depends on your weather. Our canvas covers, secured with plastic sail track (probably has a fancy name but looks like - a plastic sail track) along the top edge and 2 bungee cords with little stainless carabiners for the bottom corners was to stop rain when the port lights were open in the middle of the night. But they also act as sunshades - there is nothing more annoying having arrived at 1am to be woken by the sun at 5am and our covers allow ventilation but cut off the rising sun. Our idea might be perfect (or not) for Stemar - and I would not have put finger to keyboard if you had not mention the plastic cowls.

Our canvas covers simply slide on - and are taken off when at sea. So not obtrusive - but can be designed to keep the sun out.

Your dorades are a problem totally outside my experience (we owners of floating caravans don't have such devices - far too soophisticated) - but I thought the vents swung round so water did not enter (though as its a yacht - that's a bit of a dream). Adding your interior plugs is not my idea of an answer - you've just moved, or hidden (and not very well) the problem. Get the hose pipe out!

I'd nipper and give you a hand - but we are in lockdown

When you are crossing The Bight you will be very glad you invested the time.

Stick around - your contribution is of no use to me, currently - but I have taken note and one day it might spark off an idea with someone. There are not many like you (and Stemar) doing a compete refurbishment, or Roger fitting out an empty hull - you have something to offer., this is PBO It also reduces 'the loneliness of the long distance (who made a) runner' from the UK, via HK - now that dates me!

Take care, stay safe

Jonathan

 

[pvb]

I have a bit of trouble with the Dorade vents because they leak a bit. (I'll have to turn the hose on and see if I can trace them)

Welcome back!

If dorade vents leak, it's usually due to poor design/construction or insufficient scuppers.

 

[Hydrozoan]

... I supplied the frames split to Hadlow Marine who did the job. What I suspect they did was stick the glass into one half of the frame first either using a jig or carefully supports. Perhaps by supporting the glass and then offering the frame up with some blobs of Sikaflex to set and hold in place, or maybe firm rubber blocks to clamp the glass in place, but buried deep in the frame. Then repeated for the other half. I don't know. ...

I found that carefully supporting the glass within the frame was essential to getting an even and adequate amount of sealant between glass and frame on both sides. I used many small 'rubber' blocks (sliced from good quality pencil erasers) to ensure evenness right round, all being ultimately well-buried in the Arbomast sealant.

 

[Tranona]

Thank you for your expert advice.?
If the windows leak and there is a way of diverting the flow of water from flowing over the window I think that is relevant. Hope your day improves!

Have a look at the photos and you will see how unrealistic your suggestion is. The type of windows he has were commonplace in the 1970s and ways of fixing them so that they don't leak are well established - as he has already been advised by people who have done the exact same job on the same boat. Although not an easy job and trying a leak cure is the first option, there is not a lot else to say about the problem.

Not "expert" advice - just pointing out the irrelevance of what you have posted. If you want to show off your solutions to YOUR problems then suggest you start a new thread! Sure you will find lots of keen followers.

 

[Graeme Smart]

Thank you for your expert advice.?
If the windows leak and there is a way of diverting the flow of water from flowing over the window I think that is relevant. Hope your day improves!

For the last 25 years i have owned a window company and know exactly what i am speaking about sealing glass i sealing glass you perhaps just want to kick the arse out of it.(rolling eyes)

 

[Mister E]

On our 8m Catalac I sealed the front windows with PU40 and found that it didn't adhere to the glass that well.
So I dug out all the old sealant on the out side, I then filled the gap round with Mighty Nemisis Glazing Sealant (as recommended on here)
I used a paint scraper to put the sealant right inside. This has fixed the leaking windows.

On the removable side windows there is a plate at the bottom that is screwed on. I removed the screws to get the panels off and cleaned all the old sealant away.
I refitted the plates to the bottom of the removable window frame with new sealant. All 3 have not leaked since.

 

[burgundyben]

I've tried to show my process.

Rubber trim does not go round a big radius very well, sure you could nibble out the excess, but thats fraught with opportunity to fail, plus, I could not fight the whole thing together.

Strip and clean.

Squirt non setting mastic into frame channel.

Cut some rubber channel spacers to centralise glass in frame.

Assemble.

Mask and finish with silicone, unmask.