Newbie Reefing Query

[EnglishIrishman]

When I look at diagrams of standard slab reefing setups, it shows the end of the clew reefing line attached to the boom, with the line running up, through the relevant clew cringle then back down to the sheave in the end (or on the side of) the boom, on it's way towards the mast.
I've been getting to grips with our first boat (Parker 21) over the last couple of weeks and in my ignorance tied the reefing line directly to the clew cringe (rather than through it and back down to the boom).
So of course my question is, why is the way I've done it wrong ? Yes, I've done away with the 2:1 purchase that the preferred setup offers, but surely a straight pull from a bowline is easier on the sail than using the cringle itself as a sheave ? (and the lack of mechanical advantage should be rather academic if winches are involved ?).

I'm missing something - it's always been done the way it is for a reason, but in my numptiness I can't see it.

Comments Please.....

 

[chris-s]

Tied that way it will pull the cringle down onto the boom rather than just try to pull it back.

Chris

 

[debenriver]

It holds the luff of the sail nicely central.

Cheers -- George

 

[EnglishIrishman]

Ah yes... so it increases the 'downward' component of the pull, as well as centring the sail.

Many thanks !

 

[debenriver]

Right!!

Cheers -- George

 

[William_H]

The downward component of the pull is essential to combat the pull of the main sheet. I like to put a few turns of cord around boom and eyelet if I am reefing before departure. (not necessary but nice to have.) The concept of reefing line through eyelet and back down does indeed give 2:1 purchase and so is less load on reefing line. Be careful though I have had a reefing line chafe through on one occasion. I use this on a 21fter that goes down to a winch.
Now as you have observed some people take the tail of the reefing line down to the boom providing perhaps a disproportionate pull down compared to the pull aft of the line that comes out of a turning block on side of boom or on end of boom. I guess it is all a question of geometry. as to which force prevails and then which is more important. You need a good pull aft to flatten the main sail but you need a good pull down to counteract main sheet load.
I use a small block embedded in the top of the boom with a saddle on the other side. This is located aft of where the eyelet would arrive at the boom. Hopefully giving a pull at 45 degrees to leach and boom. Seems to work well ecept as said I like to bolster the down ward with a cord.
So OP should try with his present system it may be quite satisfactory or try with line down to boom or to a point aft of eyelet. The aim is to get enough flattening and a eyelet that is close to boom. (to raise the boom to clear your head.)
On the subject you may have rams horns for tackwhich are ok. I use a line very similar to reefing line at the mast to tack eyelet to enable me to pull tack eyelet right down to the boom and in tight to the mast from the cockpit.

 

[MisterBaxter]

I rigged a Freedom 21 that way, there was less friction and the 2:1 purchase wasn't necessary to pull the reef in. It just depends on where the block is in the boom - it needs to be far enough out towards the clew to pull the sail out nice and flat.

 

[MADRIGAL]

I rigged a Freedom 21 that way, there was less friction and the 2:1 purchase wasn't necessary to pull the reef in. It just depends on where the block is in the boom - it needs to be far enough out towards the clew to pull the sail out nice and flat.

As WilliamH said, "I use a small block embedded in the top of the boom with a saddle on the other side. This is located aft of where the eyelet would arrive at the boom. Hopefully giving a pull at 45 degrees to leach and boom."

The 45-degree pull from the reefing cringle to the block on the boom seems to work well for flattening the leech and pulling the sail to the boom. I pass the reefing line through the cringle on my Wayfarer (no winches) as I find the 2:1 purchase helpful, but as MisterBaxter says, it's not essential.

When putting in a reef under way in a bit of a blow, I first heave to, then ease the main halyard and pull the tack reefing cringle to the boom near the mast (using a tack reefing line as described by WilliamH), letting the topping lift take the weight of the boom so that the far end doesn't fall into the cockpit as the sail is lowered. Then I quickly haul in and cleat the clew reefing line, and the job is done. Hopefully I will have remembered to tighten up the main halyard after securing the tack reefing cringle!

If you don't have a topping lift fitted, you can reverse the order of operations: first hauling in on the clew reefing line raises the boom (you have to ease the kicking strap/vang to allow the boom to lift), the main halyard is then eased, and the tack reefing cringle pulled down to the boom and secured.

Best of luck with your new boat.