New to me adhesive sealant.

Boater Sam

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I've never encountered this stuff before: Simson msr construction adhesive sskf along with Prep-P.
A boatbuilder chum of mine rates it very highly, above CT1 and epoxy for water proofing/leak stuff, and reckons that if he were to have my carvel (leaking) boat, he'd use it.
Anyone here with any experience of it?
The advantage of CT1 is that it will stick and cure under water, this Simson stuff will not.
 

PabloPicasso

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I have used tek7 very succesfully below the waterline. The rudder skeg, thru-hulls etc.

Is easy to get, all the builders merchants and diy shops have it. I think its almost the same as CT1 and also cures in the wet, even underwater.
 

jamie N

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It'll be applied onto a 'dry' hull, on the least humid day that I can find in a Highland autumn anyway.
I've used CT1 before, and am impressed with it, but having been told that there's something better is irresistible.
My other option is epoxying, which I'm aware divides opinion, or both the sealant & then epoxying.
I'm going to be removing some failed caulking and sealant, so it's a critical job.
 

vyv_cox

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It'll be applied onto a 'dry' hull, on the least humid day that I can find in a Highland autumn anyway.
I've used CT1 before, and am impressed with it, but having been told that there's something better is irresistible.
My other option is epoxying, which I'm aware divides opinion, or both the sealant & then epoxying.
I'm going to be removing some failed caulking and sealant, so it's a critical job.
I don't know a lot about wooden hulls but I know a bit about materials. Epoxy has very little elasticity but wood moves considerably under the influence of water and sunlight. It seems to me that elasticity in the filler is essential, which suggests a hybrid polymer that copes with the movement and will adhere even when wet.
 

jamie N

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Yup, that's certainly been my understanding also, however 2/3rds of the hull from the waterline to 1/3 of the way to the keel is epoxied, and is 100% watertight. The 1/3 that leaks is along the keel line/garboard strake, which is the area of most relative stress and 'probable' movement I'd imagine, which is getting a harder time for sure..
It'll all be somewhat clearer once the boat's out of the water and the keel dropped, but thanks for the thoughts thus far.
 
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