New Project

[Mr Googler]

pitting doesn t look to be at the bottom but somewhere on the side, right? in the pic above you are holding it 180deg rotated, right? I agree pink is superficial.
Can you somehow remove the seal from there before attempting removing the core? that's what I did on mine but construction on the IVECOs is much more user friendly. Is the other endcap off as well? If so, you know, flat piece (pref round and just fitting in) block of wood on it, hammer, it will givein. Obvs no idea if there are special tricks to get them off on a volvo...

yes…..you can see the “tide mark” so the photo is upside down. The core is pink coz it’s been rydlymed

Seal will come out then tap it through is the method ?

I just don’t know if it’s worth bothering with. took 20 years and it’s not even half way to the seal.

 

[Mr Googler]

I was watching an episode of car sos where they has a badly corroded gearbox bell housing, they used layers of weld to build up the material and then ground it back down into shape. Could do something similar here?

No doubt an engineering shop will have some way of sorting it.

I think that’s exactly it….just need someone confirm it’s a aluminium housing ?

 

[Mr Googler]

I was wondering about aluminium epoxy putty….or is that a bit bodgy?

 

[petem]

I was wondering about aluminium epoxy putty….or is that a bit bodgy?

How about some silicone !?

 

[julians]

I was wondering about aluminium epoxy putty….or is that a bit bodgy?

Sounds a bit bodgy to me, but one man's bodge is another man's pragmatic repair -which is presumably what mr fibreglass and sealent thought when he made his various repairs.

 

[Mr Googler]

Point taken ???

 

[vas]

I'm afraid you'll have to take it to a machinist who's going to go by experience (or plain testing) I tried to repair some ali looking things. Most worked fine, one (yamaha jetski exhaust) didnt. As the guy explained, it was a special cast that he couldn't work with not only in terms of not having the proper "rod" material to fill in, but didn't like the temps his arc (iirc) welder thingie was working. Basically it was melting and falling apart at lower temps than expected.
Doubt that's the case in yours, bet any half decent shop will do it. and no, don't go instant metal/whatever such solutions. It's a pity having gone through that much trouble already. I'd rather leave it as is (asuming it's not leaking!)

V.

 

[limecc]

I'm afraid you'll have to take it to a machinist who's going to go by experience (or plain testing) I tried to repair some ali looking things. Most worked fine, one (yamaha jetski exhaust) didnt. As the guy explained, it was a special cast that he couldn't work with not only in terms of not having the proper "rod" material to fill in, but didn't like the temps his arc (iirc) welder thingie was working. Basically it was melting and falling apart at lower temps than expected.
Doubt that's the case in yours, bet any half decent shop will do it. and no, don't go instant metal/whatever such solutions. It's a pity having gone through that much trouble already. I'd rather leave it as is (asuming it's not leaking!)

For repairing aluminium or non ferrous monkey-metal alloy castings then these rods are brilliant. But beware Chinese counterfeits if you are buying off EBay.

www.amazon.co.uk/Durafix-Aluminium-Welding-Easyweld-Brush

 

[penfold]

Clean out the pits thoroughly and fill with epoxy putty(we use Belzona and Wencon at work but brand isn't important); getting it welded and machined is better but not that much better.

 

[limecc]

Clean out the pits thoroughly and fill with epoxy putty(we use Belzona and Wencon at work but brand isn't important); getting it welded and machined is better but not that much better.

Belzona, now there's a blast from the past. At least 40 yr old tech. Was always crap.

 

[Mr Googler]

Clean out the pits thoroughly and fill with epoxy putty(we use Belzona and Wencon at work but brand isn't important); getting it welded and machined is better but not that much better.

I’m liking that idea with an Ali epoxy putty. It’s such a small area…..just want to stop it getting worse. No leaks at all currently….but everyone will shout at me so better get it done proper ?

 

[julians]

I’m liking that idea with an Ali epoxy putty. It’s such a small area…..just want to stop it getting worse. No leaks at all currently….but everyone will shout at me so better get it done proper ?

I think if the repair (in this case epoxy)will last at least as long as the original material,or as long as the best other repair you could make, then it's a good repair.

It's when a repair that's only good enough as a get you home repair becomes a permanent repair that is
likely to fail in a relatively short time, that you're into the realms of bodging.

I have no idea how long an Ali epoxy repair would be reasonably expected to last.

 

[Mr Googler]

I think if the repair (in this case epoxy)will last at least as long as the original material,or as long as the best other repair you could make, then it's a good repair.

It's when a repair that's good enough as a get you home repair becomes a permanent repair that is
likely to fail in relatively short time, that you're into the realms of bodging.

I have no idea how long an Ali epoxy repair would be reasonably expected to last.

its under no pressure there….it’s just to stop further corrosion from getting to the seal…..and oil at 60 psi behind. I don’t know what to do!

 

[limecc]

its under no pressure there….it’s just to stop further corrosion from getting to the seal…..and oil at 60 psi behind. I don’t know what to do!

The Durafix rods would work well but it would require oxy acetylene to get the local temperature high enough because of the heat sink effect.

 

[Seastoke]

The IOM where all boat are land locked either on trailers or in sheds .

 

[BruceK]

I can see some thread in the future by A.N Other restoring this boat lambasting the previous owner with the epithet of Mr Putty and Paint. Top bodge!
As for removing the oil cooler core, dont, there is absolutely no need to in order to rod the cores.

 

[Mr Googler]

I can see some thread in the future by A.N Other restoring this boat lambasting the previous owner with the epithet of Mr Putty and Paint. Top bodge!
As for removing the oil cooler core, dont, there is absolutely no need to in order to rod the cores.

What about the seal at the other end? I can’t replace that without removing the core?

 

[BruceK]

Is it leaking or are you curious? Lets just say in my eagerness to do a thorough job I replaced my first oil cooler. Having been sufficiently burnt by the cost I approached the second with more circumspect. I still managed to dump 20 odd litres into the bilge from it hydraulicing the new seals with hylomar, because I was still somewhat earnest. Now thoroughly jaded I just pop off the endcap and poke it with a stick and we seem to get on much better now.

 

[Mr Googler]

Is it leaking or are you curious? Lets just say in my eagerness to do a thorough job I replaced my first oil cooler. Having been sufficiently burnt by the cost I approached the second with more circumspect. I still managed to dump 20 odd litres into the bilge from it hydraulicing the new seals with hylomar, because I was still somewhat earnest. Now thoroughly jaded I just pop off the endcap and poke it with a stick and we seem to get on much better now.

no leaks…but I’ve got 4 big o ring seals and I’d hate throw one away??

Suits me to leave well alone! I’ll “inspect” the other cooler that looks mint and just take the end caps off

 

[Bigplumbs]

Somewhere in this job you need to remember the old saying If it ain’t broke don’t fix it or as I like to say it it ain’t broke don’t break it