jrudge
Well-Known Member
So I almost have a new boat.
She ( it ) is a 2004 Squadron 58 - square porthole facelift model. Went to see it yesterday and took it on a sea trail and all is mostly well.
At this age they are have 2 things in common unless someone has done the work - the teak is pretty much shot and the interior linings ( cabin walls and ceilings) are mostly sagging / coming away. I am not sure if this is failure of the foam or the adhesive. Similar issue with car headlining are put down to the foam, so this seems the mostly likely reason.
So... the teak is shot! The caulking is significantly proud of the deck and in a few places there is no teak left. It is heavily ridged ( I do wonder if it was regularly pressure washed?) and need replacement. The cost of the teak from Watsons inc VAT is £13k + the labour to get it off and on again.
As the season is upon us I propose a trim the chalking and light sand job. This has been discussed on a few threads such as this one
http://forums.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?456103-Sanding-teak&highlight=
This wont solve the issue, but for what I assume is a few days work will make it nicer under foot and to look at until It all comes off. Forum teak removal party anyone ? Maybe 500 beers to weigh it down that can be drunk once the adhesive is dry!
The side decks are actually some £4500 of that total, and in an ideal world I would just remove them and have no teak, but I rather suspect the odds of total removal of the adhesive is almost nil. I have seen the MAPISM thread, and I dont really want to cover the deck with another finish. It is possible I suppose that the correct solvent and elbow grease would get it off - any comments?
The cabin linings are also pretty bad. I cant find anything directly on line about dealing with this, but there are plenty of car posts about failing headlining where people have tried to inject glue etc to re stick it, but the guidance there is pretty clear that it does not work, and stains the fabric.
Taking some of the panels off is simple ( ceiling) some seem less so - mostly the cabin walls. Anyone who has done it then advise welcome. Recovering should be simple ( I have done it before) with the right materials and spray glue, so it gives the chance of a moderate interior update.
The anchor chain is visibly rusty - I dont know what new chain costs yet but I suspect that replacement is more viable that trying to find someone to clean and hot dip, but again all guidance welcomed!
The survey covers a few more things, but nothing drastic. Cutlass bearings to be done in the next year and very minor week in one shaft seal.
A few things came out of the idea trial.
EVC - the EVC was flashing. This was not a code ( as in 2 flashes followed by 3) but depending on your interpretation either 13 flashes followed by a very small gap, or continuous flashing. I cleared it once and it came back. Cleared it again and then it was off for the duration. Any ideas? I have asked for a Vodia tool to be put on the boat to see if there are issues.
The steering on the top helm was no good. Many turns at slow speed to make it do anything, at speed it was below average but worked. I gather the steering is in some way pressurised and may need "pumping up" or alternatively there is lack of fluid / leak. The lower helm and auto helm are all fine.
The vacuflush sounds like there is a train passing through the boat so using that at night without a fix is a no no. How loud is it supposed to be?
The entire 12v system dropped out half way through the trail which I gather is a dropper likely to have failed.
One AC unit comes on at the controller but does not work. It is just an air handler, and the fault could range from simple to a new motor.
And finally there are rust / leak marks under an elbow in the stbd exhaust.
All the sea trail stuff is back to the vendor and we will discuss the plan ( fix or pay) today.
Other than the its a decent boat with a complete service history that seems to have been looked after. Time will of course tell!
Forum wisdom on the above appreciated.
She ( it ) is a 2004 Squadron 58 - square porthole facelift model. Went to see it yesterday and took it on a sea trail and all is mostly well.
At this age they are have 2 things in common unless someone has done the work - the teak is pretty much shot and the interior linings ( cabin walls and ceilings) are mostly sagging / coming away. I am not sure if this is failure of the foam or the adhesive. Similar issue with car headlining are put down to the foam, so this seems the mostly likely reason.
So... the teak is shot! The caulking is significantly proud of the deck and in a few places there is no teak left. It is heavily ridged ( I do wonder if it was regularly pressure washed?) and need replacement. The cost of the teak from Watsons inc VAT is £13k + the labour to get it off and on again.
As the season is upon us I propose a trim the chalking and light sand job. This has been discussed on a few threads such as this one
http://forums.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?456103-Sanding-teak&highlight=
This wont solve the issue, but for what I assume is a few days work will make it nicer under foot and to look at until It all comes off. Forum teak removal party anyone ? Maybe 500 beers to weigh it down that can be drunk once the adhesive is dry!
The side decks are actually some £4500 of that total, and in an ideal world I would just remove them and have no teak, but I rather suspect the odds of total removal of the adhesive is almost nil. I have seen the MAPISM thread, and I dont really want to cover the deck with another finish. It is possible I suppose that the correct solvent and elbow grease would get it off - any comments?
The cabin linings are also pretty bad. I cant find anything directly on line about dealing with this, but there are plenty of car posts about failing headlining where people have tried to inject glue etc to re stick it, but the guidance there is pretty clear that it does not work, and stains the fabric.
Taking some of the panels off is simple ( ceiling) some seem less so - mostly the cabin walls. Anyone who has done it then advise welcome. Recovering should be simple ( I have done it before) with the right materials and spray glue, so it gives the chance of a moderate interior update.
The anchor chain is visibly rusty - I dont know what new chain costs yet but I suspect that replacement is more viable that trying to find someone to clean and hot dip, but again all guidance welcomed!
The survey covers a few more things, but nothing drastic. Cutlass bearings to be done in the next year and very minor week in one shaft seal.
A few things came out of the idea trial.
EVC - the EVC was flashing. This was not a code ( as in 2 flashes followed by 3) but depending on your interpretation either 13 flashes followed by a very small gap, or continuous flashing. I cleared it once and it came back. Cleared it again and then it was off for the duration. Any ideas? I have asked for a Vodia tool to be put on the boat to see if there are issues.
The steering on the top helm was no good. Many turns at slow speed to make it do anything, at speed it was below average but worked. I gather the steering is in some way pressurised and may need "pumping up" or alternatively there is lack of fluid / leak. The lower helm and auto helm are all fine.
The vacuflush sounds like there is a train passing through the boat so using that at night without a fix is a no no. How loud is it supposed to be?
The entire 12v system dropped out half way through the trail which I gather is a dropper likely to have failed.
One AC unit comes on at the controller but does not work. It is just an air handler, and the fault could range from simple to a new motor.
And finally there are rust / leak marks under an elbow in the stbd exhaust.
All the sea trail stuff is back to the vendor and we will discuss the plan ( fix or pay) today.
Other than the its a decent boat with a complete service history that seems to have been looked after. Time will of course tell!
Forum wisdom on the above appreciated.
.
