New boat, 5 months in...tinker time !

[tsekul]

swmgo and I have now had our westerly gk29 for 5 months. She is now out the water and we are going through the survey to rectify as many issues as possible.

We have winterised the engine, serviced and greased the seacocks etc. But there are a few more major issues that we are looking at which would be great to get feedback on.

The survey stated that the stern gland/ packing box should be serviced. We were having to remove a litre or so of water every week from the engine bilge due to excessive dripping. Anyway I thought I would repack the stuffing box and all would be right with the world. so after removing the fuel tank! I tried removing the old flax with the new fangled corkscrew thingy I had just bought, no matter how hard I tried I could only get 1 piece out. I could not see well enough to understand the problem so bit the bullet and disconnected the prop shaft for the coupling and removed the stuffing box completely, to see what hell was going on. I discovered that the stuffing box only had room for 1 turn of flax and was relying on that and the grease . In all my prior research I had not seen this set up. I decided to replace it with a new Volvo rubber one that seems to have a lot of recommendations . Of course there are various sizes for various prop shaft/stern tube configorations and mine fitting none exactly, the sterntube outside diameter is 2mm smaller ( the lip on the end is the correct size), if I try really hard I can rotate the rubber on the tube but it still looks far better than before. I will be slightly nervous when we go back in the water.

My question is, is there anyway to test before relaunch.

Next question. we want to line, with vinyl on board, the aft quarter berth. I will need to put up a few battens to suspend the ceiling from as there is lot of wiring and bolts/ nuts etc to hide. I was thinking of glassing them in place at various points. can I use any old fiberglass weave and resin. The reason I ask is I use the stuff they do grp flat roofs with at work and have a supply of it. Don't really want to have to go mad with marine grade as it doubles the price . any thoughts?

thanks
T

 

[Kelpie]

Seeing as no-one else has bitten...
I' not very clued up on prop shafts and seals, but AFAIK you will need to get your coupling re-aligned if you have taken it apart.

On your second point, holding up the headlining is hardly a critical application so I guess you could try the cheaper resin. The accepted wisdom is that when making a structural bond to existing layup, it's much better to use epoxy as it is actually a glue rather than merely a binder. I've used polyester resin when I had to fill some gaps and it has been fine, no real strength required in that application. I think the key is to, um, key the surface very well and give it a good clean with acetone. Although tbh I would probably just use a bit of araldite or sikaflex for the job you have in mind.

 

[Wansworth]

not being a mechanic I personally would enquire the cost of a pro having a look....nothing more costly tan having to pay for a recovery and launch twice..

 

[vyv_cox]

I am somewhat surprised to hear that you can rotate the rubber of the seal on the stern tube if fitted with a good quality hose clip, well tightened. I would not be too concerned about a 2 mm discrepancy between the hose and the tube, but don't be tempted to try to fit the hose clip immediately above the raised lip. Fit it on the smaller section of the tube behind the lip and tighten the hose clip well until you cannot rotate the volvo seal. This more to resist any torque rather than to hold the pressure, as the head of water at the seal is only a few inches.

 

[alahol2]

I agree with Mavanier about sticking up the battens with Sika, CT1, PU40 et al. Much easier than messing with resin and cloth.