Nanni 4.390 saga continues (low power low speed)

Jonathan5

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Mine is doing the same now..
I did fit a Snapp filter which should be ok but might be impeding the flow of diesel.
I didn't check the waste gate yet. She is down to 15 knots full throttle now :-(
Hope we find an answer, because are searching for a long time. Maybe someone can help here. Hopefully you are not going through the same experience but this is our story in 2 stages:

Stage 01 (coolant problem)
We experienced engine trouble at sea, where the engine lost power, as if you were driving into a net. We immediately shut off the engine, and upon opening the engine compartment, a cloud of steam greeted us, and we saw coolant in the bilge. According to the dashboard, the temperature did not exceed 90°. The boat was then towed to the harbor, and there we began to search for the cause of the problem.

The following tests were performed in our search for the coolant issue:
  • Tested the coolant cap, which was in perfect condition.
  • Pressurized the cooling system, and there was no leak; the pressure remained stable.
  • Disassembled and checked the water pump, which looked like new.
  • Tested the thermostat, and it opened at the correct temperature.
  • Conducted a CO2 test above the expansion tank, which came back positive, indicating exhaust gases in the coolant.
  • Performed a compression test, which was fine.
  • Removed and sent the cylinder head to a specialist, who pressure-tested and resurfaced it, confirming its integrity.
  • While the turbo was off, we had it overhauled, and it was in good condition; new seals and bearings were installed.
  • Cleaned the coolant cooler.
  • Installed a new head gasket and reassembled all the components.
During the test run, we encountered the same issue again. Air bubbles entered the cooling system at 2000 rpm, and coolant was pushed out. The CO2 test was positive once more. As a result, we removed the cylinder head again and pressure-tested it ourselves at 7.5 bar with hot water, first on the coolant side and then on the exhaust gas side. Nothing was detected. Ultimately, we decided to install a new cylinder head because we were sure about all the components and could find no other cause. The cylinder head we purchased was not from Nanni but based on the motor code, which is a 1KZ engine. We observed that both the 125hp and 140hp versions of the Toyota engine use the same cylinder head. Our engine has a power of 200hp, but all the inputs, outputs, and mounting holes are the same. The cooling water problem was resolved during the test run, so it must have been a hairline crack after all.

Stage 02 (power loss)
However, we now have a new problem. We cannot get the engine to rev above 2600 rpm. In our quest to find the cause, we performed the following checks:
  • Pressurized the exhaust manifold, both on the exhaust and coolant sides, but found nothing.
  • Had the injectors retested, and they open at the correct pressure.
  • Disconnected the 4 injector lines at the injector and collected diesel during startup; all provided an equal amount of diesel.
  • Verified the clearance, camshaft length, valve diameter, intake and exhaust port size, and valve length on the new cylinder head with pre-mounted valves and camshaft. These measurements matched those of the old cylinder head and the specifications in the workshop manual.
  • Checked the timing of the timing belt.
  • Cleaned and pressure-tested the intercooler.
  • Set the wastegate turbo to 1.16 bar, and it opens at the correct pressure.
  • Adding extra diesel while sailing made no difference, only more smoke.
  • Pressurized the bypass of the small filter located between the intake and the injection pump with an external pump set at 1.3 bar while sailing. We observed that the injection pump is fully compressed by turbo pressure, and the turbo pressure is at the correct level.
  • Adjusted the injection pump timing, resulting in more smoke but no increase in RPM.
While searching for a solution, we also performed maintenance and found very fine, shiny particles in both the pre-filter and the fuel filter. This led us to suspect the injection pump. It is a mechanical rotary injection pump from DENSO. We disassembled it and had it checked by a specialist who was puzzled why we brought it in, as he had never received a pump in such good condition. All tests were fine.

To be sure there was no blockage in the fuel system, after installing the tested injection pump, we connected both the supply and return lines directly to a jerrycan placed on the injection pump. This resulted in an additional 50 rpm due to the elimination of filter backpressure.

Finally, we inspected the hull and, in particular, the propeller with a camera. There was minimal fouling, and nothing was found in the propeller.
The propeller shaft is easily turned by hand.

During the test run, we observed that the engine revs up to 2600 rpm. Beyond that point, there is still 1/4 of the throttle lever left, but pushing it further does not increase the RPM, and the engine sound remains the same, with a little extra smoke. The engine starts very well, and up to 2600 rpm, it sounds and responds as if nothing is wrong.

Where are the last 1000rpm?
 

jamie langstone

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Joined
22 Dec 2013
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521
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Hope we find an answer, because are searching for a long time. Maybe someone can help here. Hopefully you are not going through the same experience but this is our story in 2 stages:

Stage 01 (coolant problem)
We experienced engine trouble at sea, where the engine lost power, as if you were driving into a net. We immediately shut off the engine, and upon opening the engine compartment, a cloud of steam greeted us, and we saw coolant in the bilge. According to the dashboard, the temperature did not exceed 90°. The boat was then towed to the harbor, and there we began to search for the cause of the problem.

The following tests were performed in our search for the coolant issue:
  • Tested the coolant cap, which was in perfect condition.
  • Pressurized the cooling system, and there was no leak; the pressure remained stable.
  • Disassembled and checked the water pump, which looked like new.
  • Tested the thermostat, and it opened at the correct temperature.
  • Conducted a CO2 test above the expansion tank, which came back positive, indicating exhaust gases in the coolant.
  • Performed a compression test, which was fine.
  • Removed and sent the cylinder head to a specialist, who pressure-tested and resurfaced it, confirming its integrity.
  • While the turbo was off, we had it overhauled, and it was in good condition; new seals and bearings were installed.
  • Cleaned the coolant cooler.
  • Installed a new head gasket and reassembled all the components.
During the test run, we encountered the same issue again. Air bubbles entered the cooling system at 2000 rpm, and coolant was pushed out. The CO2 test was positive once more. As a result, we removed the cylinder head again and pressure-tested it ourselves at 7.5 bar with hot water, first on the coolant side and then on the exhaust gas side. Nothing was detected. Ultimately, we decided to install a new cylinder head because we were sure about all the components and could find no other cause. The cylinder head we purchased was not from Nanni but based on the motor code, which is a 1KZ engine. We observed that both the 125hp and 140hp versions of the Toyota engine use the same cylinder head. Our engine has a power of 200hp, but all the inputs, outputs, and mounting holes are the same. The cooling water problem was resolved during the test run, so it must have been a hairline crack after all.

Stage 02 (power loss)
However, we now have a new problem. We cannot get the engine to rev above 2600 rpm. In our quest to find the cause, we performed the following checks:
  • Pressurized the exhaust manifold, both on the exhaust and coolant sides, but found nothing.
  • Had the injectors retested, and they open at the correct pressure.
  • Disconnected the 4 injector lines at the injector and collected diesel during startup; all provided an equal amount of diesel.
  • Verified the clearance, camshaft length, valve diameter, intake and exhaust port size, and valve length on the new cylinder head with pre-mounted valves and camshaft. These measurements matched those of the old cylinder head and the specifications in the workshop manual.
  • Checked the timing of the timing belt.
  • Cleaned and pressure-tested the intercooler.
  • Set the wastegate turbo to 1.16 bar, and it opens at the correct pressure.
  • Adding extra diesel while sailing made no difference, only more smoke.
  • Pressurized the bypass of the small filter located between the intake and the injection pump with an external pump set at 1.3 bar while sailing. We observed that the injection pump is fully compressed by turbo pressure, and the turbo pressure is at the correct level.
  • Adjusted the injection pump timing, resulting in more smoke but no increase in RPM.
While searching for a solution, we also performed maintenance and found very fine, shiny particles in both the pre-filter and the fuel filter. This led us to suspect the injection pump. It is a mechanical rotary injection pump from DENSO. We disassembled it and had it checked by a specialist who was puzzled why we brought it in, as he had never received a pump in such good condition. All tests were fine.

To be sure there was no blockage in the fuel system, after installing the tested injection pump, we connected both the supply and return lines directly to a jerrycan placed on the injection pump. This resulted in an additional 50 rpm due to the elimination of filter backpressure.

Finally, we inspected the hull and, in particular, the propeller with a camera. There was minimal fouling, and nothing was found in the propeller.
The propeller shaft is easily turned by hand.

During the test run, we observed that the engine revs up to 2600 rpm. Beyond that point, there is still 1/4 of the throttle lever left, but pushing it further does not increase the RPM, and the engine sound remains the same, with a little extra smoke. The engine starts very well, and up to 2600 rpm, it sounds and responds as if nothing is wrong.

Where are the last 1000rpm?
1. Have you pulled the fuel pick up tube from the fuel tank as some tanks have been known to have a gauze at the bottom of the pickup tube which gets blocked with diesel bug and other crap which results in reduced fuel flow hence your lost 1000 rpm.
2, if you have a racor filter have you cleaned properly and not just change the filter. I have video on my youtube Shaky Angler channel how to clean a racor .
3 . Have you changed the fuel lines just in case they are collapsing under load which again reduces fuel flow.
4 I bet the problem with you head was the 4th cylinder with a pin hole between the inlet and exhaust outlet (Common Problem) always shoots out the coolant at 2000
 

Jonathan5

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1. Have you pulled the fuel pick up tube from the fuel tank as some tanks have been known to have a gauze at the bottom of the pickup tube which gets blocked with diesel bug and other crap which results in reduced fuel flow hence your lost 1000 rpm.
2, if you have a racor filter have you cleaned properly and not just change the filter. I have video on my youtube Shaky Angler channel how to clean a racor .
3 . Have you changed the fuel lines just in case they are collapsing under load which again reduces fuel flow.
4 I bet the problem with you head was the 4th cylinder with a pin hole between the inlet and exhaust outlet (Common Problem) always shoots out the coolant at 2000
Indeed, we think the problem was the 4th cylinder because it had the lowest pressure in the compression test (24bar). With the new head all cylinders give now 30bar.
We did not checked the pick up tube, although it's a good idea I believe we canceled 1, 2(we have one) and 3 out, when we tested with both supply and return lines connected to an jerrycan.
 

chamac

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1 Apr 2005
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I have video on my youtube Shaky Angler channel how to clean a racor .
Jamie, I have been following you for ages on Youtube :)
My MF805 has only started this recently so I need to investigate more.
My coolant is not affected.
I will dump the Snapp and refit the original (spotless) Racor first and check the wastegate.
Just retired so no excuses now.
 

jamie langstone

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Joined
22 Dec 2013
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521
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Jamie, I have been following you for ages on Youtube :)
My MF805 has only started this recently so I need to investigate more.
My coolant is not affected.
I will dump the Snapp and refit the original (spotless) Racor first and check the wastegate.
Just retired so no excuses now.
I hope you have found the video useful .
 
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