my project sealine

the admiral is requesting blue.
Each to their own etc especially where admirals are concerned but arguably white is where it's at currently. Cold white, like 5000kelvin

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Each to their own etc especially where admirals are concerned but arguably white is where it's at currently. Cold white, like 5000kelvin

yep agreed cool white outside and warm in. Really annoying she rarely makes such pronouncements.

She has however announced that the teak is "really nice". So you're off the hook :)
 
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Good spot - I can just get a Boris and save a gel repair.

Those little would be perfect for the fly steps but the admiral is requesting blue.

As it's a very wet area, I reckon the Spillo might suit you as they are after all IP65. If you want blue LED take a look at the blue Cantalupi 'Polaris' I had them on my Targa, they required a 19mm hole and the lens diametre was 40mm, they were also IP65 and very easy to fit.
 
not much reportable, I've been working hard on finishing the wiring, ripping out all unknown stuff, laying in new where needed, then tidying it into looms, clipping nicely, labelling etc. All makes for future reliability but doesn't really photograph.

Have started assembling the fly dash today though. The wiring was all pre done so it's plug and play.

Plotter still missing, it's a worry now. I will buy one at the boat show and fight for my deposit back if it doesn't arrive in the next week.

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getting dark here, but you can see the new and compromised compass position.
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There is a good line of sight to it from the port side of the helm seat if all the electronics do die. I so rarely use it, as I use the fluxgate if I wan't to steer to a course. It's just for coding really and I'm quite happy with it here even if it isn't perfect.

The old dash as a reminder.
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it was at this point I decided to put the plotter in rather than alongside the dash.
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Right, time for a long awaited update.

The coding survey is on Saturday, still a few things to do.

The wiring has taken an age. All done now. I have ripped out all the spanish wire and connectors and made good.
I could have taken this photo 20 times over.
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this tried to capture some before wiring but it doesn't really tell the horror of it.
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This is the wiring behind the dash and an example of some replaced bits.
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green and grey is the horn which hasn't got a button yet!

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Where I've extended wires, I've got hold of an original volvo loom, extended with a shrink wrap and glue "forever" connector with the right colour wire, so that the wiring diagrams remain correct.

I've gone to push button start on the fly. Unfortunately as standard volvo this doesn't activate the pre heater if you operate from there, so a mod with a relay and an annotated wiring diagram fixed that.
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I also found that, as original it seems, the start inhibitor on the gear lever only inhibited that station. So if it was in gear on the fly you could start it below. That has been fixed.

Starting to put panels back on now, hoorah.

The plotter is in. It took ages to arrive as the original supplier let me down. Therefore I put the instruments in before the plotter.

I had to have it installed, in order to get a school discount from Raymarine, and I wasn't there when it went in.
I pre wired it to keep the install time right down, even so Roger Upham of chichester was very very fair on the install price.
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The instruments are, I'm certain, symmetrical to the outside of the dash. But with the plotter in our hand made dash extension is a bit wonky. The original rev counters are looking manky too. I will not be able to live with this, but it will do for now.

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I think with the plotter eased left, and the new tachos both eased slightly right, it will be symmetrical enough. If not the big saw is coming out.

The plotter has only been played with so far, but I'm absolutely delighted with it. The ipad functionality is absolutely spot on, and I only have an ipad 1 which isn't even supposed to work. The iphone works as an additional remote control - fabulous.

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I've also been getting on with the oak veneering. Been a learning curve I've had to redo a few, here are a few work in progress shots.

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Other things, like flowcoating the bilges and lockers to keep things neat. Got to paint the support beam now.

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A coding report next week, right now for example the external grabrails are in DJEFABS workshop
 
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Good job with the spaghetti! It is amazing how poor some folks wiring attempts are, and how they risk reliability. Your mods look spot on. The oak veneer looks great too. Good luck with the coding.
 
The raymarine apps are great.....and currently ray control app is free in the app store

Now if the iphone could just remotely control the autopilot that would be great.....not got that part of ray control working via the e7


Do you need the tachos? Why not just use the plotter engine instruments?

If you need a gateway, splitter and sealtalk converter.....got it all in the garage!


alternatively a couple of I70's instead of the tachos? Would compliment the plotter and look good
 
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Yes please, that oak veneer looks fabulous.
Me too on the veneering. I'd really like to know how you get such a great looking finished item. You guys who are refurbing boats have my admiration because I certainly wouldn't have the skills to do this
 
The raymarine apps are great.....and currently ray control app is free in the app store

Now if the iphone could just remotely control the autopilot that would be great.....not got that part of ray control working via the e7


Do you need the tachos? Why not just use the plotter engine instruments?

If you need a gateway, splitter and sealtalk converter.....got it all in the garage!


alternatively a couple of I70's instead of the tachos? Would compliment the plotter and look good

The engines are TAMD61s, I don't think the tacho and angine data is easy to interface. A couple of i70s. Yes, but pricey. I'm not skimping where I need to but keeping costs sensible. I'd like the boat to be worth more than it cost me.

I might splash to new tachos at 70 quid each though for farias.

I've already got the new stickers for the morse controls, they will look like new once polished. I need a new wheel and then it will look good.
 
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