my project sealine

Fab stuff Ellesar. I take my hat off to the guys who can do GRP work like the dash, sans mould, and make it look factory original. That's going to look great. I was at Essex Boatyards yesterday looking at some GRP things they have modded for me and it is nice to see such work

Glad you have a sidepower b/thruster. It's good to fit the best :-)

Is the oak to make the kitchen doors or what? How will you apply it? Vac bag?

Bit worried that you are marking the lovely carpet
 
Fantastic thread. Amazing rate of progress, very impressive. Is the plan to reveneer the existing cabinetry? If so - how do you get the old stuff off? And what about bits of timber trim that can't be got out of the boat (bonded in position)?

Cheers
Jimmy
 
Fab stuff Ellesar. I take my hat off to the guys who can do GRP work like the dash, sans mould, and make it look factory original. That's going to look great. I was at Essex Boatyards yesterday looking at some GRP things they have modded for me and it is nice to see such work

Glad you have a sidepower b/thruster. It's good to fit the best :-)

Is the oak to make the kitchen doors or what? How will you apply it? Vac bag?

Bit worried that you are marking the lovely carpet

Sidepower are great as are Osmotec. They are the distributors, and they fit them. When we started fitting bow and stern thrusters I thought they would be a problem, as after all we would be competing with their own fitting department and we undercut them of course. My pre conception could not have been further from the truth, they are totally and utterly supportive. The sign of a truly proffessional company IMHO.

I also fit max power thrusters as they are well made and offer a useful saving. But their service is terrible and they have got worse since their solvency issues. I asked for a quote from them for this one and they couldn't supply. Decision made.

The oak is to re veneer all the interior joinery. There's enough here for the aft cabin which will be the test pad. Time bond impact adhesive plus a roller is the plan, but its all a bit of an experiment. The results of course will be posted here.
 
Fantastic thread. Amazing rate of progress, very impressive. Is the plan to reveneer the existing cabinetry? If so - how do you get the old stuff off? And what about bits of timber trim that can't be got out of the boat (bonded in position)?

Cheers
Jimmy

Yes, that's the plan. Oak is only 1/2 mm thick, so no removal of the old, just put it over the top.

Will just fit the bonded stuff in situ. The fitting is OK, the spraying of the laquer more of a challenge........
 
Yes, that's the plan. Oak is only 1/2 mm thick, so no removal of the old, just put it over the top.

Will just fit the bonded stuff in situ. The fitting is OK, the spraying of the laquer more of a challenge........

I will be very interested in how well this works. Presumably the current veneer and general finish must be in top condition, otherwise the finish will be questionable? Papering over the cracks?
 
I will be very interested in how well this works. Presumably the current veneer and general finish must be in top condition, otherwise the finish will be questionable? Papering over the cracks?

Its all fine. It's the white pretend wood sealine era, which a previous owner has "improved" with brown paint. It's actually not as bad as you might think from that description they have done it very neatly, but it has to go.
 
you let me loose on your last boat ... are you brave enough to let me loose on this one?! ;)

It's looking fantastic - just glad we can't justify fuel costs of a mobo!! :D
 
you let me loose on your last boat ... are you brave enough to let me loose on this one?! ;)

It's looking fantastic - just glad we can't justify fuel costs of a mobo!! :D

With the greatest of pleasure :)

I don't know yet what the fuel usage will be, it is bound to be worse than evenstar 3 though. Heavier and shafts rather than out drives.

But how many litres of diesel does a suit of sails buy.
 
With the greatest of pleasure :)

I don't know yet what the fuel usage will be, it is bound to be worse than evenstar 3 though. Heavier and shafts rather than out drives.

But how many litres of diesel does a suit of sails buy.

Ah yes, but this is nice and heavy and on shafts so you can go a displacement speeds nice and easily to save a bit of fuel :)
 
Yes, that's the plan. Oak is only 1/2 mm thick, so no removal of the old, just put it over the top.

Will just fit the bonded stuff in situ. The fitting is OK, the spraying of the laquer more of a challenge........

Very interesting stuff, when you mention lacquer, do you mean that you are using a real wood veneer rather than a Formica type laminate? If applying your contact adhesive and using a roller you will need to be careful about evenness of the glue, probably best to have a reasonable room temperature and brush on a fairly runny contact adhesive. Otherwise you will end up with slight ripples which will show up wherever light is shone across the surface.
 
Very interesting stuff, when you mention lacquer, do you mean that you are using a real wood veneer rather than a Formica type laminate? If applying your contact adhesive and using a roller you will need to be careful about evenness of the glue, probably best to have a reasonable room temperature and brush on a fairly runny contact adhesive. Otherwise you will end up with slight ripples which will show up wherever light is shone across the surface.

hmmm.

this is all an experiment. I am using the glue recommended by the wood supplier (robbins)

Perhaps I'll clamp it rather than roll it.

All reported back......
 
Very interesting stuff, when you mention lacquer, do you mean that you are using a real wood veneer rather than a Formica type laminate? If applying your contact adhesive and using a roller you will need to be careful about evenness of the glue, probably best to have a reasonable room temperature and brush on a fairly runny contact adhesive. Otherwise you will end up with slight ripples which will show up wherever light is shone across the surface.

Hmm that sounds very right to me. The glue has to be applied evenly. A lot of trade firms use vacuum bags to press the veneer on, (though that's a different point from spreading the glue evenly). 15psi is quite a decent amount of pressing
 
Hmm that sounds very right to me. The glue has to be applied evenly. A lot of trade firms use vacuum bags to press the veneer on, (though that's a different point from spreading the glue evenly). 15psi is quite a decent amount of pressing

More thought needed. I want to fit the veneer oversize and rout it to size in situ. Don't see how the vaccuum bag can work therefore.

15psi is indeed a lot. Easily achieved with a roller, not by pressing a large flat area.

Ripples will ruin it.

Hmmmmm.......
 
15psi is quite a decent amount of pressing

Where did you get 15psi from data sheet just says

For best results bring the two dry, coated surfaces into contact within 10 minutes of the adhesive films becoming ‘touch dry’ and press together over the entire bond area. Apply as much pressure as possible by hand. Sustained pressure is unnecessary.
 
Would have thought that doors and tops of cabinetry etc are removable, if so then using vacuum bags shouldn't be a problem.

There must be loads of furniture repair type bods locally that have vacuum bags that could do the job, otherwise must be possible to cobble something together?
 
Does anyone know where I can get panels re-veneered and lacquered?

I have 13 panels incl 3 doors where the veneer has lifted and split! I've had a quote for £5k inc the vat, does this sound reasonable or might it be expensive?

Sorry for thread drift Mark.....
 
Veneering, I thought PVA glue was the way to go?, just coat both surfaces and when close to dry (dry to the touch) apply using a domestic iron to cure.

Certainly worked fine on a bow window project we did a couple of years ago
 
Where did you get 15psi from data sheet just says

For best results bring the two dry, coated surfaces into contact within 10 minutes of the adhesive films becoming ‘touch dry’ and press together over the entire bond area. Apply as much pressure as possible by hand. Sustained pressure is unnecessary.

15psi is very ballparky the pressure created by vacuum bagging (I suppose the imperfection in the vacuum means it might be more like 12psi). I note what you say on the datasheet but the pros use vac bagging and a slightly slower curing adhesive. And the ready made 8x4 panels are of course veneered in a massive press.

But vac bagging has obvious impossibilities for furniture that is built in so if you have got a good contact adhesive then that makes good sense. I just thing Bojangles made a great pint when he said you have to spread the glue very evenly to avoid high spots. But you already know that Mark and I'm hugely guilty of telling you how to suck eggs, sorry mate!
 
Does anyone know where I can get panels re-veneered and lacquered?

I have 13 panels incl 3 doors where the veneer has lifted and split! I've had a quote for £5k inc the vat, does this sound reasonable or might it be expensive?

Sorry for thread drift Mark.....

Rearo Laminates in Glasgow can do this, I've mentioned them on here before but no connection other than I am a customer of theirs. They can do corian in virtually any shape and have a huge choice of laminates.
 
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