My Keels

jimbouy

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Having sanded off some rusty patches i have treated them with KuRust , then a coat of hammerite number 1 rust beater.

What next, I wondered about a couple of coats of a Hamerite top coat before the anti foul.

What do you reckon.

Also will the antifoul need some sort of special under coat.

Jimbouy

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That's what I used to do and it lasted a season or two. Blakes Keel Primer is good too. It's a sort of tarry substance so it takes a few knocks.

Steve Cronin

<hr width=100% size=1>The above is, like any other post here, only a personal opinion
 

oldharry

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Now you have the keel cleaned up go for a conventional underwater paint system. Hammerite is not designed for near permanent total immersion, and will not stop rust breaking out again. You will also have great difficulty getting any other paint (including Hammerite!) to adhere to it once it has fully cured.

Personally I have found 4 - 6 coats of Primocon, with a good antifoul system applied to makers specs works well enough to prevent further rust outbreaks for the forseeable future. No paint system will inhibit rust (including Hammerite) if it gets damaged, and raw metal is exposed.

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oldsaltoz

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It sounds like you need to keep moisture out, I would give a sanding with some 80 then 100 grit paper, then apply 3 coats of epoxy resin, wet on tacky, if it does dry off, just wash it and rub with a green kitchen plastic scourer till the water no longer forms beads, this only takes a few minutes and removes the residue left when epoxy cures.



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AndrewB

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Yes, agree.

Primocon is good, though I would go for a zinc based epoxy primer if the rust has caused pitting, or if this yacht is kept on a drying mooring.

Kurust will deal with light surface rust, but will not stop deeper rusting. It's not a good prime for this application. It might be best to power wire-brushing the keels clean just before applying the Primocon. If there are still rust pits, these will need to be taken out with an angle-grinder. Be careful not to create a too shiny-smooth surface on the steel or the primer won't hold well.

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AndrewB

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Re: Yes, agree.

A Google search will throw up any number of makes. These paints seem to be more easily obtainable from a yard than a chandler, so what you can most easily get may depend on what brand your local yard stocks.

I've applied Skippers Epozinc 2C overcoated with Skippers Solver Primer below the waterline on my steel yacht, which seems to have worked well. (<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/Boat_Paint_Catalogue_Skippers_41.html>SEE HERE</A>)

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Aja

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Iron keels will always rust. If like mine, you have occassional small rust spots, all I would do is wet and dry back to solid paint and apply the antifouling.

It doesn't get seen by anyone (if it is take another reef in!)

It will appear next season - but IMO you wont cure it.

Regards

Donald

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PeterGibbs

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Re: My Keels - my lovely keels!

Rust on keels excites a measure of unease that is in reality not worth the consideration. Let me explain. The drag caused by some irregularities on the surface of the keels cannot be measured - it is cosmetic, so treat it as such, I say. Get rid of the flakes and wirebrush to metal, then keel primer, then antifoul and off to sea. The problem is that there is no way of sealing the edges of the failed paint cover from the sound paint, so by the end of each seaon, bingo, the patch has failed and you do it all over again.

The alternative with iron keels is to cut back the whole blade every other year and remake the paint cover. What a joke! Do I hear disagreement from the paint manufacturers' federation - QED!

PWG

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