Moving from sail to motor

Leighb

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I wasn't planning to limit myself to Suffolk, but West Coast of Scotland is a long way, especially if there possible choices somewhat closer.
 

Whitelighter

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I wasn't planning to limit myself to Suffolk, but West Coast of Scotland is a long way, especially if there possible choices somewhat closer.

Yes it is, and I wouldn't advocate viewing on a whim. I'd ask a lot of questions by email, get copies of receipts, more photos, more photos of details etc etc but - you are talking about a 3003 which is what? 86/87 boat locally or a boat 10 years newer further afield. I'm not suggesting you rush up and buy the thing, it was more a practical example of what you might buy for your £45k budget (or perhaps the best example I could find fir your budget).

My pony about the transport was not to be flippant, but more to say it really isn't that far or costly to get the thing back - should you like it of course
 

superheat6k

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NO! :cool:
But I would want to see the maintenance history for an outdrive boat and check for water/metal in the oil etc.
Fuel consumption is typically lower, maintenance costs higher.
So lets hang our aluminium encased gearbox and all its external linkages in the sea water, and I know - lets use a rubber sheet to stop the sea coming inside the boat. Aluminium is used for sacrificial anodes, so what a tremendous idea to use the same material to make the outdrive from.

Over a 30 year period a shaft drive will likely require the shaft seal replacing once or twice along with the cutlass bearings. An outdrive will likely require replacing entirely twice in this period. So unless buying a < 10 year old boat expect to be replacing the outdrive. Just wander around an older boatyard to see just how many outdrives are removed to get an idea just what trouble they can be.

The cost of replacing and even just maintaining outdrives is hard paid for by the alleged fuel economies. If you are cruising less than 200 hours per year it is unlikely the fuel savings will pay for the extra work required.

Those who use shafts will also find low speed manoeuvring superior with twin shafts, especially without thrusters.

Still won't much affect me too much - never had an outdrive boat, never will have one !
 

[2068]

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Each to their own, but the previous FP didn't have many outdrive issues over 900+ hours and 13 years, other than some damaged shaft seals caused by fishing lines / pot lines, and a couple of trim cylinders.
The aluminium body of the outdrive didn't dissolve at all! That's the job of anodes.
The other thing is shallow water capability: it can be useful to raise the drives and creep up on beaches or over shallow patches that you otherwise could not.
 
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Stats007

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So lets hang our aluminium encased gearbox and all its external linkages in the sea water, and I know - lets use a rubber sheet to stop the sea coming inside the boat. Aluminium is used for sacrificial anodes, so what a tremendous idea to use the same material to make the outdrive from.

Over a 30 year period a shaft drive will likely require the shaft seal replacing once or twice along with the cutlass bearings. An outdrive will likely require replacing entirely twice in this period. So unless buying a < 10 year old boat expect to be replacing the outdrive. Just wander around an older boatyard to see just how many outdrives are removed to get an idea just what trouble they can be.


The cost of replacing and even just maintaining outdrives is hard paid for by the alleged fuel economies. If you are cruising less than 200 hours per year it is unlikely the fuel savings will pay for the extra work required.

Those who use shafts will also find low speed manoeuvring superior with twin shafts, especially without thrusters.

Still won't much affect me too much - never had an outdrive boat, never will have one !

This is mostly BS.

Hundreds of boats out there that are on original engines and drives that are 30 years old - the Sunseeker advert section alone could convince you to buy one.
 

superheat6k

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This is mostly BS.

Hundreds of boats out there that are on original engines and drives that are 30 years old - the Sunseeker advert section alone could convince you to buy one.
My opinion yes. BS no.

BTW does anyone actually own an original 30 year old leg that has seen continuous immersion for 30 years, albeit with regular servicing. By servicing I mean anodes, an occasional rubber and clean off of fouling and new gearbox oil, not a full rebuild every five years.
 

Fishtigua

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My opinion yes. BS no.

BTW does anyone actually own an original 30 year old leg that has seen continuous immersion for 30 years.

I've been working with both Volvo and Mercruiser drives for the last 10 years, day in and day out. I too wouldn't buy if I had the choice, shafts all the way.

The only outdrive to last for 30 years without a rebuild I've come across is and old Enfield unit. :)
enfield drive.jpg
 

Stats007

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My opinion yes. BS no.

BTW does anyone actually own an original 30 year old leg that has seen continuous immersion for 30 years, albeit with regular servicing. By servicing I mean anodes, an occasional rubber and clean off of fouling and new gearbox oil, not a full rebuild every five years.

I had a Nimbus with a VP leg and KAD44 that was 15 years old and needed nothing but what you describe with 600 hours on her. That said as it was 26 foot it came out of the water regularly. I would be far more concerned about hull osmosis if leaving a GRP boat in the water for 30 years.
 

superheat6k

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I had a Nimbus with a VP leg and KAD44 that was 15 years old and needed nothing but what you describe with 600 hours on her. That said as it was 26 foot it came out of the water regularly. I would be far more concerned about hull osmosis if leaving a GRP boat in the water for 30 years.
My current boat is 25 years old and had a dry hull report at survey last year, after all of its life afloat., save occasional maintenance lifts. The prior was regarded as exceptionally dry and that was 28 years old then, and immediately prior to my purchase had spent the prior three years without a lift.

Drying of a hull with say a month ashore is minimal. osmosis is more about original GRP lay up quality, than immersion period. If a hull is going to develop the pox it will do it most likely within the first 10-15 years. After 20 years I believe it is less of a concern. In many ways osmosis is an overstated problem anyway, often a convenient 'out' excuse for would be buyers who get cold feet after an offer has been placed and the purchase process started.

Just my opinion of course.
 

Portofino

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The way to understand out drive vs shaft interms of longevity , expense , down time is the represent them on a binomial curve
null_zpsx3whkvhl.jpg

Where the red is shaft and orange outdrive shifted to the RHS
The horizontal axis -down time , break down , ££ spent on repairs ,sevicing , etc
There is some overlap of the "rare " ends -which explians why one guy above has had 15 y of realisable service with outdrives .

null_zpsfplnl1fj.jpg

Here you can see "rare " the ends ,

As time passes the orange (outdrive ) curve will migrate further to the Right faster than the red shaft -due to the complexity of them .
 

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