More ball valve problems

[DannyB]

My holding tank discharge ball valve is stiff, to the point I can no longer close it. The valve is normally kept open because it is so awkward to get at. The valve is in a small compartment behind the toilet bowl, access is limited to my left forearm, and you can only really use your wrist. I took the handle off and used a shifter on the flats of the shaft, with the extra leverage I can move it through something like 60 or 70 degrees. Part of the problem maybe that I'm not as young as I used to be. Taking the valve out will be a nightmare. I am toying with the idea of making a socket type tool to fit the valve shaft, using a knuckle joint and extension bar, I can extend out of the locker and get both hands on a tee bar to operate it. The question is, does the valve rotate through 360 degrees? The existing handle has tags on it which limit the movement to plus/ minus 90 degrees, but is there any reason why I can't move it from 0-90 to close it, and then 90-180 to open it again?

 

[Plum]

My holding tank discharge ball valve is stiff, to the point I can no longer close it. The valve is normally kept open because it is so awkward to get at. The valve is in a small compartment behind the toilet bowl, access is limited to my left forearm, and you can only really use your wrist. I took the handle off and used a shifter on the flats of the shaft, with the extra leverage I can move it through something like 60 or 70 degrees. Part of the problem maybe that I'm not as young as I used to be. Taking the valve out will be a nightmare. I am toying with the idea of making a socket type tool to fit the valve shaft, using a knuckle joint and extension bar, I can extend out of the locker and get both hands on a tee bar to operate it. The question is, does the valve rotate through 360 degrees? The existing handle has tags on it which limit the movement to plus/ minus 90 degrees, but is there any reason why I can't move it from 0-90 to close it, and then 90-180 to open it again?

Yes, once the handle is off the shaft and ball can be rotated 360. However, without the handle acting as a stop you will need some other means to judge when the valve is closed. If the valve is not fully closed then you might just as well leave it permantly open. I would be worried about adding more leverage to overcome a stiff valve as you may get to the point when something breaks!

Colin. Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Tranona]

It will be deposits built up at the rim of the ball or in the housing that is causing the stiffness rather than the ball in its seat. When the boat is out of the water, blank off the outlet and fill spray the interior of the valve with penetrating oil and operate the lever periodically until it frees. prevention requires regular operation to stop the deposits building up.

 

[macd]

DannyB: hope you get the valve turning again. As Tranona wrote, valves need regular use to stop crud buidling up on them. Some of my valves came with the manufacturer's advice that they should be turned once per month.

Much of the crud is calcification of some sort caused the reaction of seawater and toilet waste. So it makes sense, when leaving the boat for an extended period, to flush through plenty of seawater to fully evacuate waste from the entire system. Seawater alone should not lead to the build-up of calcification.

 

[vyv_cox]

I made an extension for my 1.5 inch Blakes discharge valve as, like yours, it is very difficult to reach. Mine has a U shaped end that fits over the strong handle, welded to a bar about 12 inches long and a T at the top. The handles on many ball valves are not strong enough for this, so your socket idea will probably be better in your case. With most ball valves the 90 degree quadrant is in the handle, so operating the extension without the handle in place will let the ball rotate 360 degrees. It is possible to buy strong stainless steel handle replacements, which might solve the problem.

 

[DannyB]

I made an extension for my 1.5 inch Blakes discharge valve as, like yours, it is very difficult to reach. Mine has a U shaped end that fits over the strong handle, welded to a bar about 12 inches long and a T at the top. The handles on many ball valves are not strong enough for this, so your socket idea will probably be better in your case. With most ball valves the 90 degree quadrant is in the handle, so operating the extension without the handle in place will let the ball rotate 360 degrees. It is possible to buy strong stainless steel handle replacements, which might solve the problem.

I have already changed the handle to a more robust stainless type, because the original handle folded on me. The problem isn't the strength of the handle, it's the strength of my wrist, and there is no room for a longer handle.
Incidentaly I converted my toilet to a fresh water flush to avoid that first pump out smell, and I also hoped that would help avoid any build up caused by seawater.

 

[vyv_cox]

I have already changed the handle to a more robust stainless type, because the original handle folded on me. The problem isn't the strength of the handle, it's the strength of my wrist, and there is no room for a longer handle.

I clearly have not explained myself correctly. My extension does not increase the length of the handle, it extends the spindle length. Because the U shaped end delivers a large torque the handle needs to be strong to take the compressive load.

 

[DannyB]

OK Vyv, I'm with you.

 

[Forty_Two]

Anyone got a UK source for the stainless replacement handles?