Milky oil in 280 outdrive

[IanC]

I have two 280 Volvo Penta Outdrives which I am about to take off the boat to change the usual exhaust, UJ and water intake to keep things safe and water tight.

The last time I did this, three years ago, the oil in the leg was a little milky. I have read this is probably because of either the prop or gear shift seals, or both. What do you think? Is this a job that I could do, I'm fairly competent with that sort of thing, but what about the bearings on the prop shaft - does that need special tools etc. I would be interested to hear from anyone who had done this and would welcome any advice before I set off into the unkown. Should I have a go and do one, or both seals? I do have the Seloc Manual.

Thanks

IanC

 

[PaulGooch]

It'd be a big mistake not to do both seals Ian. If it was my boat, i'd be fully servicing both legs, including all of the seals.

If it helps, i have the VP maual for your legs.

 

[enterprise]

After 3 years I would definitely be worried, damage may have been caused, why didn't the seals get changed 3 years ago?

I would change them after all you know there's a problem, I wouldn't ignore it unless you want to rebuild the drives in the near future.

 

[IanC]

Thank you for the replies so far, it is appreciated. I do want to change both seals - and I will - my main question is 'is it doable' for an reasonably competent mechanic, or do I need specialists tools etc, especailly for the prop shaft bearing removal. I'd love to hear from someone who has done it and can tell me what sort of a job it is....

IanC

 

[scottie]

Before you disturb anything do a vacuum test .
Less obvious places known to leak include filler and drain plug seals along with gear shift actuator.
After servicing worth doing another vacuum test

If you have run for three years with water in either drive without damage !!

You should check every year and Change bellows every second

They are expensive to repair.

 

[oldgit]

The gearshift seal is basic job ,prob best to remove it from leg(undo 4 x 10mm bolts) take it/them home and do on kitchen table.REMEMBER how it comes to bits,assorted pins etc which need to go back in.
Three different version of gear shift with minor differences depending on age of leg.
Make sure you put seal in "correct" way round and get new "improved" double lip version.
Seals have been known to be fitted incorrectly.
I took digital pix of assembled item and then few more while pulling to bits nothing complicated but fiddly.
Shaft seal needs decent socket set and removal of lower gearbox (couple of bolts) a nice big vice and preferably a slide hammer,to remove shaft from bearing in case. It is poss to do without but you could cause damage splitting casing with screwdriver etc.
If prop shaft is worn it is poss to fit new seal to run on unworn bit of shaft.
A morning per leg should be enough,yes we all know somebody who can do this in 5 mins flat but we need it done properly.
When leg is off check the seal behind U/J is not weeping and transom bearing is OK,very obvious if not.

 

[volvopaul]

Three years gap between servicing and by the sounds of it lifting of the boat is too long a gap to give continual reliability of the drives.

You should change the oil every year and replace the bellows clips on the drive bellow and examine the drive for corrosion, while changing the clips slide the bellows beck and check to see if either oil has leaked out or water is present in the bellows, all these things are very often overlooked by owners who think they can be a d I y boat owner, it all then comes tumbling down when the pros strip the drive to clean out the mayonnaise and find the case hardening on the gears has been stripped due to the drive running on emulsified oil.

When I come to reseal drives like this they get a full strip down to the last nut and bolt, along with separation of all three main castings, a wash out, rebuild with new seals and o rings, and if req new bearings and a shimm up, anything less is a pointless exercise.

This also causes premature wear on the cone clutch, it's simply not worth going this time without at least changing the oil, and use synthetic oil not ep90 gear oil, at least the modern oil can stand water in it and still work to a degree.

If your not sure I'm 50 mins drive down the m1 from wakefield should you need my services.

 

[spannerman]

Having done at least 100 of these repairs over the years I would strongly recommend you replace all the propshaft seals and the gearshift seal then you know it won't leak for 'some' time as all VP drives will get water in during their life, FACT!
Check the teeth on the pinion gear, the small gear at the lower end of the vertical shaft in the lower gearhousing as this can be damaged if run in water for too long, look for chips or missing parts on the teeth also on the two large gears, if they are OK then just rinse out with diesel from the top down and replace the seals and then pressure test before you fill it with new oil to make sure all is OK.
Its straight forward doing the shaft seals, remove the two large hex bolts, we have a special puller to remove the shaft but you can use a thin paint scraper to get the bearing housing to move rearward then gently work it out with two screwdrivers, first is the aluminium bearing housing with two large seals, (note how they are installed) flip them out and clean out the old 'Baileys' as we call it, check the bearings and refit new seals, they go in back to back and if the propshaft has a groove worn into it then position the new seals a couple of millimetres past the groove to get a better seal.
Then pull out the outer shaft and flip out the two seals and clean, (often its behind these that you find fishing line which was the cause of the leak) and fit the new seals, the new ones are different from each other and there are instructions showing that the inner one has to go in the right way.
Now on reassembly you have to be careful not to damage the lips as you slide the outer shaft back onto the inner shaft, I use the plastic bag the seals came in as a condom over the shaft so the grooves the prop sits on doesn't cut the lips as you slide the shaft on, then pulll the bag out after, works every time, make sure you use lots of water proof grease on the seals so it slides on easily.
Same with the bearing housing, replace the two large O rings then refit with a bag over outer shaft as this has serrated splines which can damage the new seals otherwise.
Refit the hex bolts and you are done.
The gearshift is a bit more tricky, undo the 4 bolts and it will usually pop out as there is a spring pushing the selector shoe into the groove in the clutch, remove shoe as well noting how it sits offset to one side of the clutch, very important when reassembling.
Put the gearshift housing in a vice and you will see a small hole in the back of the brass shift quadrant, carefully tap a small punch down the hole and you will feel it push a roll pin down, once its gone down about 5 mm you will be able to pull out the steel pin in the side of the quadrant, now push the brass part out of the housing and turn it over and tap it carefully so that the roll pin falls out of the hole, save it, now you can clean up the quadrant as they usually have deposits on the outer part which damage the seal lips, flip out the old seal and refit again following enclosed instructions as this only goes in one way and get the depth right or the quadrant which moves in and out as it rotates will hit the outer lips.grease well and refit into housing, line up with the cam profile and push in the steel pin so that you can insert a thin pin or screwdriver down the roll pin hole, when you are sure its in the right place carefully tap in the roll pin ( it may be worth buying a new one with the seals in case you damage/lose it) it should sit so its equidistant through the pin as its the pin that anchors it, then install new O ring on housing and refit spring and shoe and making sure the shoe is offset to the correct side install in upper section and refit bolts.
Now you are done.

 

[IanC]

Fantastic help - those are the sort of comments and guidance that I was looking for - excllent - thank you so much.

IanC