Methods of connecting two led cabin lights to one switch

steve yates

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I fixed up my cabin lights then ran the cables from them to the switch panel when it suddenly occured to me that I need to get both positives onto the same spade terminal if I want the switch to supply power to both cabin lights. (the lights have individual on/off switches so I dont always need both on) The negative cables are no problem as there is plenty of room on the busbar. I'm wondering about using a suitable wago connector that might take two wires on one side and one on the other? or can I crimp two wires into one female spade terminal? The cables are 1.5mm. I have seen what looks like a connector block before, but has multiple spade connectors joing one point, but I cant find anything like that on 12v planet or on google as I dont know the right word for it. I was hoping to avoid adding anything else like connector blocks into the switch box as there are enough switches for most everything to have its own.
Thanks
 

QBhoy

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Would you not just run the feed from one, strkggt across the switch of the other (bypassing the switch)
 

KompetentKrew

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Look up "piggyback spade terminals" on Google Images and see if they'll do what you need.

They come in the three sizes of blue/red/yellow crimp and Halfords, Amazon and 12voltPlanet all stock them,
 

Crazy-Diamond

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I am a fan of soldering, and I wonder why more people are not. It isn't hard at all, and the tools are inexpensive. I feel that a decent solder joint properly finished off with heat shrink or other suitable covering is better than any mechanical method of joining electrical connections. If the joint needs to be somewhere likely to get damp I cover the solder with a smear of vaseline before applying heat shrink. Surely this is the better approach for joining wires?
 

lustyd

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Surely this is the better approach for joining wires?
The industry would seem to disagree. Solder joints apparently don't do well where there is potential for movement such as on boats, and can cause broken wires or strands*. I can't see it being a huge issue if done well, but taken at scale these things generally are not done well. I used Wago connectors for the first time this year and was pleasantly surprised how good and cheap they were (they are genuine, but still inexpensive). The main issues with them are needing the space and needing the correct size. I absolutely hate standard insulated crimp connectors, even with good tools they fail to crimp tightly too often. Other crimps are fine though, and these days I prefer a nicely specced connector with crimped pins for most jobs, the downside to which is I now have 6 crimp tools and a locker full of various connectors ?

*someone like Paul will hopefully be along with the real explanation shortly
 

lustyd

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Would there be objection to one of these in a dry location?
Personally I wouldn't. You're not in a tool-less environment so have the option of at the very least stripping the wires. Something designed to penetrate insulation and join wires will be compromising on something and my guess would be both connection and longevity. You also have the option of crimped ring connectors and a small bolt. This can either be bolted through something, epoxied to something, or covered in insulation tape. I've used this a few times as all the bits are readily accessible in most locations (and usually already on board!). My preference these days is a Wago though
 

Alex_Blackwood

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I fixed up my cabin lights then ran the cables from them to the switch panel when it suddenly occured to me that I need to get both positives onto the same spade terminal if I want the switch to supply power to both cabin lights. (the lights have individual on/off switches so I dont always need both on) The negative cables are no problem as there is plenty of room on the busbar. I'm wondering about using a suitable wago connector that might take two wires on one side and one on the other? or can I crimp two wires into one female spade terminal? The cables are 1.5mm. I have seen what looks like a connector block before, but has multiple spade connectors joing one point, but I cant find anything like that on 12v planet or on google as I dont know the right word for it. I was hoping to avoid adding anything else like connector blocks into the switch box as there are enough switches for most everything to have its own.
Thanks
You just "Loop" the supply from input of first light to input of second. Seemples!
 

Plum

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I am a fan of soldering, and I wonder why more people are not. It isn't hard at all, and the tools are inexpensive. I feel that a decent solder joint properly finished off with heat shrink or other suitable covering is better than any mechanical method of joining electrical connections. If the joint needs to be somewhere likely to get damp I cover the solder with a smear of vaseline before applying heat shrink. Surely this is the better approach for joining wires?
Despite what some professionals may advise, I totally agree with you. I have been soldering connections on my boats for 40 years with many having lasted 20 years so far and still perfect. I have never had a failure.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

lustyd

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Despite what some professionals may advise, I totally agree with you. I have been soldering connections on my boats for 40 years with many having lasted 20 years so far and still perfect. I have never had a failure.
Most pro's seem fine with it on an individual basis where the person doing the work is competent at soldering. They stick to the general advice though because while your soldering might last 20 years, someone else may burn their boat to the waterline either before or after finishing the joint ?
 

Crazy-Diamond

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Perhaps the ease and speed of use is a factor here too? Mechanical connectors are quick to use, soldering takes a little longer. I understand that where movement is a factor a soldered joint is inflexible, but most wires should be supported or fixed in some way. Mind you, mechanical blocks are hardly wobbly! :)
Having just bought a larger boat I am dismayed to find none of the wiring is labelled, whereas I was meticulous in labelling all the wiring (and plumbing) on my last boat. Why don't people do this? Argh!
 

lustyd

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I am dismayed to find none of the wiring is labelled, whereas I was meticulous in labelling all the wiring (and plumbing) on my last boat. Why don't people do this? Argh!
It could be worse, some eejit could have used a label maker for labelling the wires and all the labels would be in the bilge, having lost their stickiness years ago. I've seen this on boats, but it's absolutely rife in the data centre world
 

Boathook

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?

*someone like Paul will hopefully be along with the real explanation shortly
He's been missing for a while. Couldn't find him on the members list the other day, so I assume he has left? A great shame, but he and a few others did seem to get into a slanging match quite often. All in my opinion of course.
 

lustyd

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He posted at the weekend, so hopefully not left! Besides, nobody really leaves the forum once they have you you're theirs for life ?
 
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