JBofBideford
Well-known member
I've recently bought one of these secondhand, don't have a clue how old it is, but it isn't young! (but then who am I to point the finger?) Can any kind soul tell me the petrol/oil mix for this outboard please?
Mercury 2.2 outboard
- Thread starter JBofBideford
- Start date
blue_anchor
New member
fifty to one..and dont forget to check the impeller/cooling..early small mercs get easily blocked with salt crystals..run in a fresh water tank until well warmedup
jacksaid
New member
I have a 2.2 that is about 4 years old. It requires a 100 to 1 ratio.
JBofBideford
Well-known member
OK, now I'm confused. Is there a way of determining an engine's age from it's serial number, and how do you do it? I don't want to wear it out with too weak a mix, or burn too much oil.
G
Guest
Guest
My 2.2 leaflets suggested 100:1 mixture but I was advised to use 50:1, this has worked fine for me. Another reply to your enquiry suggested checking salt deposits, I found that my 2.2 stopped sending water out of the tell tale when it got clogged up and eventually I had to remove he head and get rid of the salt deposits with a screwdriver, just flushing with fresh water was not enough. Also your 2.2 has a constrictor in the carburettor and it is the same basic engine as a 3.3 h.p. model without the gears. I have removed my constrictor and adjusted the carburettor needle valve and I get improved performance. I expect people will tell me I have done all the wrong things but it works OK for me.
JBofBideford
Well-known member
Thanks David, that's very reassuring. I'll use 50:1 and not worry whether it's an old engine or a newer one. When the time comes for me to take it apart to remove the salt buildup, where do you suggest I get the necessary gaskets? Or is that the sort of thing most chandlers sell? (I'm new at this, does it show?)
david_e
Active member
It's worth checking the approximate age of the engine via the serial number & importer J. P Barrus if you can. I feel that dealers and others tell people to use 50:1 as a precaution but with todays fine engineering tolerances if the manufacturer states a ratio then stick to it.
I ran my Merc 6hp twin on 50:1 on recommendation from a dealer but found that it clogged the plugs up. I now run it on 100:1 and it is fine, similarly with a 3.3 Mariner, roughly the same engine as a 2.2 Merc, runs very well on 100:1.
Too much oil can soot the plugs and leave oil deposits on the bore, pistons and rings which in turn can make them stick and cause wear & possible burning of a hole in the piston because of the excess heat. Have a look around the engine there is often a little white sticker that tells you the oil mix.
In theory you shouldn't need to take it apart if you have it serviced once a year and then winterized. Outboard engineers tell me they are good for 10 years or so, no doubt someone will disagree.
As a final thought, did you ask the vendor the age or mixture?
I ran my Merc 6hp twin on 50:1 on recommendation from a dealer but found that it clogged the plugs up. I now run it on 100:1 and it is fine, similarly with a 3.3 Mariner, roughly the same engine as a 2.2 Merc, runs very well on 100:1.
Too much oil can soot the plugs and leave oil deposits on the bore, pistons and rings which in turn can make them stick and cause wear & possible burning of a hole in the piston because of the excess heat. Have a look around the engine there is often a little white sticker that tells you the oil mix.
In theory you shouldn't need to take it apart if you have it serviced once a year and then winterized. Outboard engineers tell me they are good for 10 years or so, no doubt someone will disagree.
As a final thought, did you ask the vendor the age or mixture?
ccscott49
Active member
Also remember if you use 50:1 mix, on an engine designed for 100:1, you are running the engine with a weak mixture, which will cause overherating and possible piston burn, due to pre-ignition (pinking). I would check!
vyv_cox
Well-known member
Somebody posted here not long ago (6-7 weeks?) that he had now re-used the same head gasket two or three times on this engine.
JBofBideford
Well-known member
I bought the engine from a non-boating lady whose boating husband had moved out, she hadn’t a clue about it’s age or history. There’s no visible clue to the required mix, despite careful searching.
Thanks for the clue; I’ll endeavour to contact the importer to ascertain it’s age and required mix.
Thanks for the clue; I’ll endeavour to contact the importer to ascertain it’s age and required mix.
charles_reed
Active member
It's actually a Tohatsu 2.5 re-badged for Mercury.
An excellent motor - the two manufacturers are at odds as to whether it should be 50:1 or 100:1.
An excellent motor - the two manufacturers are at odds as to whether it should be 50:1 or 100:1.
JBofBideford
Well-known member
E P Barrus have e-mailed that I should use 50:1 TW3 2-stroke outboard oil for this engine.
Thanks to everyone for their helpful advice.
Thanks to everyone for their helpful advice.
JBofBideford
Well-known member
OK, now I've had it serviced, and got the right fuel mix. Can anyone unfold the secrets of easy starting, or doesn't "easy starting" exist? Do all outboards have a psychological aversion to being clamped to a transom? Any tips would be gratefully received.
charles_reed
Active member
Both the 2.2 Mercury and the 3.5 Tohatsu have always been easy starters (though the Mercury, after its 2nd ducking had water-in-fuel problems for long after).
Get throttle to just above the start position, no more than 2 pulls on full choke, then throttle only.
Get throttle to just above the start position, no more than 2 pulls on full choke, then throttle only.
JBofBideford
Well-known member
Thanks for that, Charles. Is a long slow pull effective, or should it be as quick as possible? (I did indicate that I was new at this!)
Regards, John
Regards, John
Steve_Bentley
New member
Having just bought my first outboard recently I thought you might like to hear the various tips (and several of these were supplied by the very knowledgeable regulars on these forums!) I've picked up which aren't in the workshop manual.
I've got a Mariner 30, which apparently is actually Yamaha, but should have some general handling similarities with yours (apart from being a bl**dy-site heavier!), but I don't know if you have a fuel tap/shutoff.
To start I was told to choke it until it fires then push in the choke. To pull-start first take-up the slack then quick pulls but never let go of the cord as it can ruin the recoil spring (let it feed itself back in). Mine has a kill switch which you'd think is the way to stop it, but what you're actually supposed to do is stop the fuel (if you can- mine's a separate tank & fuel line) and use the kill-switch just before it dies. Mine floods if you just kill the switch and lay it on its side- the unburnt fuel in the carb runs into the cylinders. You shouldn't run it completely dry as it needs a coating of fuel/oil to protect the cylinder bores, just run it enough to burn off most of the fuel in the carb. If its flooded then remove and dry the plug/s for a few pulls if it helps but anyway give it a few pulls (plugs refitted) with choke (and/or throttle) and fuel 'off' to disperse/burn the remaining fuel in the engine, then start as normal. Mine runs for over a minute on the fuel just in the carb- once it's run abit stop and switch the fuel back on. Mine's also supposed to be 100:1 but I was told to use 50:1 under heavy loads. Various American sites (eg MarineEngine.com etc) recommend the higher octane rated fuel (97 or 98?). As you've probably heard, running for more than 5 secs out of the water is supposed to damage the water pump (another manual I read said 30 secs so take your pick!). Enjoy!!
I've got a Mariner 30, which apparently is actually Yamaha, but should have some general handling similarities with yours (apart from being a bl**dy-site heavier!), but I don't know if you have a fuel tap/shutoff.
To start I was told to choke it until it fires then push in the choke. To pull-start first take-up the slack then quick pulls but never let go of the cord as it can ruin the recoil spring (let it feed itself back in). Mine has a kill switch which you'd think is the way to stop it, but what you're actually supposed to do is stop the fuel (if you can- mine's a separate tank & fuel line) and use the kill-switch just before it dies. Mine floods if you just kill the switch and lay it on its side- the unburnt fuel in the carb runs into the cylinders. You shouldn't run it completely dry as it needs a coating of fuel/oil to protect the cylinder bores, just run it enough to burn off most of the fuel in the carb. If its flooded then remove and dry the plug/s for a few pulls if it helps but anyway give it a few pulls (plugs refitted) with choke (and/or throttle) and fuel 'off' to disperse/burn the remaining fuel in the engine, then start as normal. Mine runs for over a minute on the fuel just in the carb- once it's run abit stop and switch the fuel back on. Mine's also supposed to be 100:1 but I was told to use 50:1 under heavy loads. Various American sites (eg MarineEngine.com etc) recommend the higher octane rated fuel (97 or 98?). As you've probably heard, running for more than 5 secs out of the water is supposed to damage the water pump (another manual I read said 30 secs so take your pick!). Enjoy!!
G
Guest
Guest
I've a Mariner 2.2, which I understand is the same as the Mercury. Manual says 50:1.
I'd heard about the constrictor screw adaption. How do you do it?
I'd heard about the constrictor screw adaption. How do you do it?
schilde
New member
I always have trouble starting mine, but I can always cure it by fitting the killcord. This might not be a problem on older engines ;-)
BTW I read they recommend 100:1 to yachties to appear environmentally friendly but 50:1 for fleet users. Since I read that I have been running mine on 75:1 with no problems
Steve
BTW I read they recommend 100:1 to yachties to appear environmentally friendly but 50:1 for fleet users. Since I read that I have been running mine on 75:1 with no problems
Steve
JBofBideford
Well-known member
I tried fresh fuel and it now starts second pull each time when cold, and first pull when warm, and runs well on 50:1. It is a little on the noisy side, but bearable. Barrus kindly dated it c. 1984.
andy_wilson
New member
These things have barely changed in design or materials over the last 20 years, and differ little between (Japanese)manufacturer.
I would use 50:1 if your use is under heavy load / high revs / high throttle settings eg running flat out against the tide for a long trips up the river in the dinghy, and 100:1 if you forsee mainly light use, at 1/2 revs or 1/2 throttle or so.
Reasons?
All 2-strokes suffer carbon build up. If you run light (and cool) you don't need the lubrication of 50:1 and 100:1 will extend time between de-cokes, and even plug-cleans.
If you run heavy the extra loading will appreciate 50:1 and the higher revs and temp will help control carbon build-up and oiling up.
The difference in oil ratio will have no discernable effect upon the richness of the fuel to air ratio. If you burn a hole in a piston if will be due to improper adjustment of the main jet or ignition advance, both of which will make themselves known long before extreme engine damage occurs.
Small 2-stroke outboards are one of the few devices that can respond to additives etc. You might want to consider giving it a good treatment with a tune up additive designed for the job, given it's age, unknown service history, and probable unforseen lay-up. I've used OMC engine tuner on every OB I've ever used. Warm her up in a tank (or on the water), run at v.fast tick over and gradually choke the engine to death by spraying bursts into the air inlet, over the course of 15 - 20 seconds, then spray until it stops the motor. Whip the plug out and spray a good few seconds into the plug-hole, turn it over a couple of cycles by hand and go and have a cuppa whilst it gets to work on all the gummy oil in the carburetor, reed valve, crank case, piston ring, and the carbon in the combustion chamber.
Just stand up-wind when you starter her up again 1/2 an hour later.
A de-coke (of sorts) in a can.
I would use 50:1 if your use is under heavy load / high revs / high throttle settings eg running flat out against the tide for a long trips up the river in the dinghy, and 100:1 if you forsee mainly light use, at 1/2 revs or 1/2 throttle or so.
Reasons?
All 2-strokes suffer carbon build up. If you run light (and cool) you don't need the lubrication of 50:1 and 100:1 will extend time between de-cokes, and even plug-cleans.
If you run heavy the extra loading will appreciate 50:1 and the higher revs and temp will help control carbon build-up and oiling up.
The difference in oil ratio will have no discernable effect upon the richness of the fuel to air ratio. If you burn a hole in a piston if will be due to improper adjustment of the main jet or ignition advance, both of which will make themselves known long before extreme engine damage occurs.
Small 2-stroke outboards are one of the few devices that can respond to additives etc. You might want to consider giving it a good treatment with a tune up additive designed for the job, given it's age, unknown service history, and probable unforseen lay-up. I've used OMC engine tuner on every OB I've ever used. Warm her up in a tank (or on the water), run at v.fast tick over and gradually choke the engine to death by spraying bursts into the air inlet, over the course of 15 - 20 seconds, then spray until it stops the motor. Whip the plug out and spray a good few seconds into the plug-hole, turn it over a couple of cycles by hand and go and have a cuppa whilst it gets to work on all the gummy oil in the carburetor, reed valve, crank case, piston ring, and the carbon in the combustion chamber.
Just stand up-wind when you starter her up again 1/2 an hour later.
A de-coke (of sorts) in a can.
