MD2020 Crankshaft Pully Removal

[Len Ingalls]

The manual on Bluemoment does say "lift off the pump"

7. Release the injection pump. Turn the stop lever
clockwise and carefully lift up the pump so that the
lock pin to the regulator arm is accessible (Fig. 57).
Remove the lock pin and release the regulator arm.
Lift off the injection pump.
NOTE! Take care off the shims under the injection
pump flange.
8. Dismantle the timing gear casing​

Yep! I see it now. Thanks & apologies to Allergy. / Len

 

[Jokani]

Thanks to all the help and advice, I managed to remove the timing gear casing:

Getting there!

But I still can't fit the plate & gaskets I need to hopefully cure the leak, the camshaft needs to be removed first, I was hoping the plate would fit over it. The workshop book says that before removing the camshaft the 'cam followers' need to be removed first. I have searched the workshop books and there are not any further references to 'followers' neither can I find these on the parts explosion.

Three questions:

1) Is there another name for 'cam followers'?
2) Where/what are they?
3) Can they be removed by just removing the valve/head cover, or will I need to remove the entire cylinder head?

Just for info, this is the plate I am trying to fit:

 

[PaulRainbow]

It's the bits between the camshaft lobes and the valves Gary. It' appearance will differ from engine to engine, try a Google image search.

 

[Len Ingalls]

We call them tappets over here. You will have 4 for your 2cyl engine. You will have to remove the cyl. head to extract the tappets.
They are the little cylindrical things shown in camshaft removal section.
As Paul said-find a Youtube video for any engine to learn how. / L

EDIT: Wait a minute. You got that plate off without removing the camshaft-why not put it back the same way. I must be missing something.... / L

 

[VicS]

EDIT: Wait a minute. You got that plate off without removing the camshaft-why not put it back the same way. I must be missing something.... / L

That's the (new) plate he is trying to fit.

But I still can't fit the plate & gaskets I need to hopefully cure the leak, the camshaft needs to be removed first, I was hoping the plate would fit over it. The workshop book says that before removing the camshaft the 'cam followers' need to be removed first. I have searched the workshop books and there are not any further references to 'followers' neither can I find these on the parts explosion.

Three questions:

1) Is there another name for 'cam followers'?
2) Where/what are they?
3) Can they be removed by just removing the valve/head cover, or will I need to remove the entire cylinder head?

Just for info, this is the plate I am trying to fit:

As said the cam followers are the "tappets" #40 in the diagram below . If you cannot just remove the governor gear from the camshaft without removing the shaft.( It appears to be separate part in the parts list but is all fitted as one assembly in the engine rebuild video part 11) its a major tear down job including head off ????

 

[RichardS]

I'm assuming that you are intending to pull the camshaft out sideways through the block and the cam followers (that's the name I've always used for them) will jam against the shaft. This sounds a bit unlikely unless the camshaft has no bearing caps along it's length ..... but you may well be able to remove the followers by putting a blob of grease on the end of the pushrod. The sticky grease might pull the follower up with it. I'm sure that I did this half a century ago but I might be mistaken.

Richard

 

[VicS]

I'm assuming that you are intending to pull the camshaft out sideways through the block and the cam followers (that's the name I've always used for them) will jam against the shaft. This sounds a bit unlikely unless the camshaft has no bearing caps along it's length ..... but you may well be able to remove the followers by putting a blob of grease on the end of the pushrod. The sticky grease might pull the follower up with it. I'm sure that I did this half a century ago but I might be mistaken.

Richard

That's worth a try. If it works then at least it saves having to remove the cyl head.

I see no mention of bearing caps for the camshaft. Once the cam followers , the injection pump and the retaining plate are removed I think it should just pull out.

 

[PaulRainbow]

but you may well be able to remove the followers by putting a blob of grease on the end of the pushrod. The sticky grease might pull the follower up with it. I'm sure that I did this half a century ago but I might be mistaken.

Richard

I was thinking along those lines Richard, grease on a stick or a telescopic magnet. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bergen-Lo...780225?hash=item463094f941:g:~OIAAOSwwNVTs8im

From the diagram Vic posted it look as though it should be possible to lift the complete rocker shaft off and then extract parts #39 and #40.

I've no direct experience with this particular engine, but i'd say be very careful to make sure each part goes back where it came from and to follow the correct procedure for setting valve clearances when you've done.

 

[Jokani]

Thanks again, Vic, Paul, Richard and Len for your support & advice.

I have a telescopic magnet or order and will give that a try, but will now likely not be until next weekend.

If it doesn't work, the definitely the season is over, then I will need to make the decision as whether it would be easier to remove the engine and complete the work at home, or complete in place.

 

[VicS]

Thanks again, Vic, Paul, Richard and Len for your support & advice.

I have a telescopic magnet or order and will give that a try, but will now likely not be until next weekend.

If it doesn't work, the definitely the season is over, then I will need to make the decision as whether it would be easier to remove the engine and complete the work at home, or complete in place.

I assume if you take the engine home you will be back in March........... then you can get it fixed in time for the start of the current season.

 

[Heckler]

I'm assuming that you are intending to pull the camshaft out sideways through the block and the cam followers (that's the name I've always used for them) will jam against the shaft. This sounds a bit unlikely unless the camshaft has no bearing caps along it's length ..... but you may well be able to remove the followers by putting a blob of grease on the end of the pushrod. The sticky grease might pull the follower up with it. I'm sure that I did this half a century ago but I might be mistaken.

Richard

Thats what we used to do, again half a century ago!
I bet the OP is wishing he hadnt started this game!
S

 

[Heckler]

Thanks again, Vic, Paul, Richard and Len for your support & advice.

I have a telescopic magnet or order and will give that a try, but will now likely not be until next weekend.

If it doesn't work, the definitely the season is over, then I will need to make the decision as whether it would be easier to remove the engine and complete the work at home, or complete in place.

I took the head off my previous VP 2030, so pretty similar, the gasket was nearly a hundred notes! so try and avoid taking the head off although I think you might have to, the pushrod holes might not be big enough to get the followers in and out easily. Just remove the rockers and pushrods, keep them in order that you take them out. Pretty straight forward. The cam followers, the oil makes them "suction" sticky, put the magnet on them and do a slow steady pull, they should come out pretty easily but getting them up the inside of the block and past the head? Yuck!
Stu

 

[PaulRainbow]

The pushrod holes have to be big enough to get the followers in and out, or it wouldn't be possible to assemble the engine. A snag might be if the hole in the head gasket is smaller then the hole beneath it, could snag the follower and send it back down, so some care there would be in order.

 

[Jokani]

I bet the OP is wishing he hadnt started this game!

That is most certainly the case, if I understood what I was getting in to, I would have tried harder curing the original oil leak with gasket sealant, I am also pretty sure I could have sailed with a small leak and just topped up the oil as and when, then sorted the problem out at the end of the season. I made the wrong decision, and now past the point of no return.

On the positive side, during my 2 years of boat ownership I have made a lot of boaty friends, so I have a number of crew opportunities, and already have a week booked in mid September (Wells to Scarbough or Whitby), so i will at least get a few miles in, even if not on my own boat.

One odd thing I noticed, the hole that this bolt is in, when the bolt is remove it very slowly weeps water, is this something I should be concerned about?

After spending sometime studying the workshop books and YouTube videos, I am not convinced that I can't just remove the camshaft gear while the camshaft is left in place, it looks as though it should be possible:

 

[earlybird]

.
..One odd thing I noticed, the hole that this bolt is in, when the bolt is remove it very slowly weeps water, is this something I should be concerned about?

I would suspect that the tapped hole is drilled into the water jacket, not good but probably not too serious. needs watching though. Hopefully not a crack into the jacket.
More generally, I've followed this thread with a mixture of sympathy and foreboding. I'm not familiar with this engine, but I feel that you are going in over your depth. That is not meant to be unkind.
The dismantling and resetting of assemblies connected with the governor and fuel pump are not to be undertaken lightly IMO, especially if you do have to remove the camshaft. Presumably the camshaft drives the injection pump.
You earlier asked if you should remove the engine again. I think that I would if reasonably practicable. If you can't get it reassembled and running on the bench in your workshop on your own, then there is plenty of time before the next season to involve a diesel mechanic away from the boat. More cost, I realise, but you will not want to encroach on next season with a stubborn repair.

 

[VicS]

One odd thing I noticed, the hole that this bolt is in, when the bolt is remove it very slowly weeps water, is this something I should be concerned about?

Surprised perhaps but maybe nothing to be overly concerned about. I think when rebuilding I'd put a dab of something on the threads just to make sure it cannot leak. Loctite ?? or just some heavy grease??

After spending sometime studying the workshop books and YouTube videos, I am not convinced that I can't just remove the camshaft gear while the camshaft is left in place, it looks as though it should be possible:

Although its available as a separate part there is no info on removing or refitting and no signs of any retaining clip or fastener. I reckon its probably pressed onto the shaft with a big press before fitting to the engine.

 

[RichardS]

Although its available as a separate part there is no info on removing or refitting and no signs of any retaining clip or fastener. I reckon its probably pressed onto the shaft with a big press before fitting to the engine.

I think Vic is correct. The woodruff key doesn't look as if it will extend far enough to locate with the drive gear. My Jag has gears which are pressed onto a taper fit on the end of the camshafts. They can be removed with a puller ..... but then you need the special Jag camshaft positioning tool to reposition them in exactly the right place on the taper otherwise the valve timing is permanently out.

You need to take further advice before trying to remove the gear in case that opens up a whole new can of worms. (another can of worms? )

Richard

 

[VicS]

I think Vic is correct. The woodruff key doesn't look as if it will extend far enough to locate with the drive gear. My Jag has gears which are pressed onto a taper fit on the end of the camshafts. They can be removed with a puller ..... but then you need the special Jag camshaft positioning tool to reposition them in exactly the right place on the taper otherwise the valve timing is permanently out.

You need to take further advice before trying to remove the gear in case that opens up a whole new can of worms. (another can of worms? )

Richard

I cannot think what would be the purpose the key it it did not correctly time the governor gear with the cam shaft, but I must admit it does not look as though it will in the diagram ........... must remember though that these diagrams are only intended a parts identification drawings.

 

[Jokani]

You need to take further advice before trying to remove the gear in case that opens up a whole new can of worms. (another can of worms? )

I have emailed Sean Brackstone of Marine Enterprises, who I purchased the engine from, asking for his advise as to whether this is possible.

 

[Heckler]

The pushrod holes have to be big enough to get the followers in and out, or it wouldn't be possible to assemble the engine. A snag might be if the hole in the head gasket is smaller then the hole beneath it, could snag the follower and send it back down, so some care there would be in order.

I am referring to the push rod holes in the cylinder head. Not always the same size as the block.
S