md1 wont start

Will definately check the exhaust.

Do you think the Dynastart will be ok with the increased 24V?

It'll be OK for a short burst but don't spin it for any longer than 5-10 seconds, to avoid burning out the starter.
Even on standard voltage most manufacturers recommend no longer than about 20 seconds on the starter.

Give it a break of at least a minute or two between bursts, to allow the starter motor to cool down. Put your hand on it to check its temp if you're not sure.

With the engine spinning fast a short burst should be more than sufficient to get it going so if it's still showing no signs of life after a couple of goes I'd stop and reconsider.

Edit: Oops apologies just read Vyv's reply above. I was answering for a normal engine with starter motor, not sure what a Dynastart is.
 
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I suspect I heard the story of this engine on Monday from a friend of your father's, with whom I share a boat (though he owned all of it for much longer). We were out sailing and had a mind to go up Holy Loch, but ended up lunching at Ardentinny.

The way I heard the story the injector is stuck.
Reading the posts so far you mentioned that the fuel was getting through, but were not too specific.
Did you see a squirt of fuel at the injector inlet? If so, how do you know the injector is actually injecting? It could be stuck, and not actually firing fuel into the cylinder, and so no fire. But you would still see compression etc.
So I think you need to remove the injector and check it out.
I heard it's seized in there? In that case removal might end up destroying the injector, but a new injector is relatively low cost to a new engine!!

If there's compression, and nothing moved since it last ran (timing etc) and there's fuel in the tank and air at the air inlet, then my guess is a stuck injector which is starbing the cylinder of fuel, and hence no start.

Geoff
 
I suspect I heard the story of this engine on Monday from a friend of your father's, with whom I share a boat (though he owned all of it for much longer). We were out sailing and had a mind to go up Holy Loch, but ended up lunching at Ardentinny.

The way I heard the story the injector is stuck.
Reading the posts so far you mentioned that the fuel was getting through, but were not too specific.
Did you see a squirt of fuel at the injector inlet? If so, how do you know the injector is actually injecting? It could be stuck, and not actually firing fuel into the cylinder, and so no fire. But you would still see compression etc.
So I think you need to remove the injector and check it out.
I heard it's seized in there? In that case removal might end up destroying the injector, but a new injector is relatively low cost to a new engine!!

If there's compression, and nothing moved since it last ran (timing etc) and there's fuel in the tank and air at the air inlet, then my guess is a stuck injector which is starbing the cylinder of fuel, and hence no start.

Geoff

I reckon this is a good tip

I always had a spare injector on board

a bit of fuel gunk could stop it fropm working

changing the injector often produced results

D
 
I suspect I heard the story of this engine on Monday from a friend of your father's, with whom I share a boat (though he owned all of it for much longer). We were out sailing and had a mind to go up Holy Loch, but ended up lunching at Ardentinny.

The way I heard the story the injector is stuck.
Reading the posts so far you mentioned that the fuel was getting through, but were not too specific.
Did you see a squirt of fuel at the injector inlet? If so, how do you know the injector is actually injecting? It could be stuck, and not actually firing fuel into the cylinder, and so no fire. But you would still see compression etc.
So I think you need to remove the injector and check it out.
I heard it's seized in there? In that case removal might end up destroying the injector, but a new injector is relatively low cost to a new engine!!

If there's compression, and nothing moved since it last ran (timing etc) and there's fuel in the tank and air at the air inlet, then my guess is a stuck injector which is starbing the cylinder of fuel, and hence no start.

Geoff


Geoff,

There was a squirt of fuel at the injector inlet.
When the engine is cranked over I can hear a 'squeak' on every revolution, which I understand is an indication that the injector is working?

My brother was at the boat yesterday and he managed to remove the injector - he reported that the end was very black/sooty.
He gave it a wipe and replaced it.
He hasn't gone any further at this stage.
 
Geoff,

There was a squirt of fuel at the injector inlet.
When the engine is cranked over I can hear a 'squeak' on every revolution, which I understand is an indication that the injector is working?

My brother was at the boat yesterday and he managed to remove the injector - he reported that the end was very black/sooty.
He gave it a wipe and replaced it.
He hasn't gone any further at this stage.

the injector should only squeek evey 4th revolution
 
Getting the injector out is a good thing. Next to prove that its working, turn the engine over with the injector out, but connected. (Assuming the fuel pipe can bend sufficiently). On the injection stroke (not every revolution remember), there should be a fine cone shaped squirt of fuel from the injector tip. If that's happening, then the injector is OK. That it was black and sooty ins't a good sign, but not necessarily a disaster either - just indicates unburnt fuel perhaps.

Some have mentioned the possibility of water lock. If that were the case you'd not have been able to turn the crank over at all. Water lock means water in the cylinder, and it incompressible, so it "locks" the engine, and yu can't turn it. (I remember a case of this due to misfitting the exhaust on an MD2030; had to remove the injectors at sea, and blow the water out, refit and away it went).

You've mentioned compression is evident: Is this as a result of cranking the engine - with injector in- and it seemed to have the normal amount of resistance? If so, well and good, that's probably good compression.
Another thing to check is that its getting air OK. At either the inlet, or the exhaust, whichever you can get to, check that its sucking in air and expelling it via exhaust as you crank.
A diesel needs air (check as above), fuel (checking the injector), compression ( checked as above), timing (and if this engine ran last year and you have not altered this, it won't change on its own). That's about it. Not firing must be one of these, but there are multiple rweasons why any of these might not be present.
Compression (lack of) could be valves, piston rings, cylinder bore, head gasket, leads round head - many things for example. But if you have compression, then none of these likely to figure.
 
Getting the injector out is a good thing. Next to prove that its working, turn the engine over with the injector out, but connected. (Assuming the fuel pipe can bend sufficiently). On the injection stroke (not every revolution remember), there should be a fine cone shaped squirt of fuel from the injector tip. If that's happening, then the injector is OK. That it was black and sooty ins't a good sign, but not necessarily a disaster either - just indicates unburnt fuel perhaps.

Some have mentioned the possibility of water lock. If that were the case you'd not have been able to turn the crank over at all. Water lock means water in the cylinder, and it incompressible, so it "locks" the engine, and yu can't turn it. (I remember a case of this due to misfitting the exhaust on an MD2030; had to remove the injectors at sea, and blow the water out, refit and away it went).

You've mentioned compression is evident: Is this as a result of cranking the engine - with injector in- and it seemed to have the normal amount of resistance? If so, well and good, that's probably good compression.
Another thing to check is that its getting air OK. At either the inlet, or the exhaust, whichever you can get to, check that its sucking in air and expelling it via exhaust as you crank.
A diesel needs air (check as above), fuel (checking the injector), compression ( checked as above), timing (and if this engine ran last year and you have not altered this, it won't change on its own). That's about it. Not firing must be one of these, but there are multiple rweasons why any of these might not be present.
Compression (lack of) could be valves, piston rings, cylinder bore, head gasket, leads round head - many things for example. But if you have compression, then none of these likely to figure.

#39
check those things you have changed before getting too far under the bonnet
 
Getting the injector out is a good thing. Next to prove that its working, turn the engine over with the injector out, but connected. (Assuming the fuel pipe can bend sufficiently). On the injection stroke (not every revolution remember), there should be a fine cone shaped squirt of fuel from the injector tip. If that's happening, then the injector is OK. That it was black and sooty ins't a good sign, but not necessarily a disaster either - just indicates unburnt fuel perhaps.


Geoff,

The engine was producing a lot of black/oily/sooty exhaust emissions towards the end of last season - discovered that the cold start device was stuck in the on position - that may account for the dirty injector?
 
They all look dirty unlike sparkplugs which do indicate firing etc

The inside is what counts now you have it out get it tested properly if you can fettes & at kip may have a pop tester for a quick basic check

Be very carefull where you spray it as it will inject diesel through skin with very unpleasant results.

When you put it back check for washers at the tip there should NOT BE ANY

These engines are guilty of bending push rods if water gets in
 
Might account for dirty injector, but current problem is not running at all.
The advice to check everything you've changed is good. Things don't change themselves much.
So compression - checked.
Fuel supply - checked
Fuel out of injector= to check
Airflow - to check?
Timing - unlikely, as not changed
 
Dylan,

Where do you get a spare injector for an MD1?

Take it to a local specialist diesel injector place - there are loads of them around for trucks, tractors & modern cars too. Let them see it & they will tell you if it is worth cleaning & do it for you. They will probably be able to source a new nozzle and/ or a complete injector. Modern car injectors can be pricey, but the MD1 is ancient agricultural technology & will not cost hundreds of pounds, more like a few tens at most.

Getting the injector out is great news & sootiness will not clean off with a wipe - it needs to be properly blasted & blown to clean it & only a specialist diesel company will have the kit to do it & to check the spray pattern after cleaning.
 
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